Codzitos

History & Origin

Codzitos - whose name comes from the Mayan kots, meaning 'to roll' - are one of the most humble and beloved snacks in Yucatecan cuisine. Their simplicity is deceptive: behind a rolled and fried tortilla lies the entire philosophy of the peninsula's market kitchen, where a memorable flavour is created from few ingredients, feeding Yucatecans for generations. The snack originated in the fondas of Mérida's traditional markets, where cooks used the previous day's tortillas, rolled them around a wooden cocktail stick or with their fingers, fried them in lard until golden and bathed them in tomato sauce spiced with the characteristic Yucatecan recado. Lard was the universal cooking fat of the pre-Hispanic and colonial peninsular kitchen, and codzitos fried in lard develop an incomparable flavour and texture compared to those fried in vegetable oil. Unlike tacos dorados from central Mexico, which are filled before frying, traditional codzitos are fried empty and served as a neutral wrap that the sauce and toppings transform into a complete dish. Some modern versions fill them with refried black beans or egg, but the classic recipe serves them unfilled, with the tomato sauce as the star. The codzitos sauce is distinguished from other Mexican salsas by the use of charred tomatoes with onion, garlic and habanero chilli, and by the addition of Yucatecan oregano - a more fragrant variety than common oregano - and recado spices. This thick, aromatic sauce wraps around each codzito and contrasts perfectly with the freshness of cotija cheese and the tang of soured cream. Today codzitos are part of the traditional Yucatecan breakfast and are served at all markets throughout the peninsula.