Huevos al Albañil (Builder's Eggs in Green Salsa)

History & Origin

Huevos al albañil is a dish that carries work in its name: it was named in honour of the albañiles, the construction workers who in 20th-century Mexico arrived at the fondas of city centres to eat a hearty breakfast before long days of intense physical labour. A breakfast that needed to be economical, nutritious and substantial enough to last several hours of effort under the sun. The name 'al albañil' follows the Mexican tradition of naming dishes after the occupation of those who ate or prepared them, a custom that has given such expressive names as 'tacos de canasta' (from those who transport them in wicker baskets), 'mole de olla' (prepared in a clay pot) or 'huevos tirados' (for the informal way of preparing them). It should also be noted that the word 'albañil' in popular Mexican speech can carry connotations of something made in a rough-and-ready but effective manner, and in this sense the green salsa with cactus is exactly that: simple, direct and absolutely satisfying. The combination of eggs with green salsa and cactus is one of the happiest in popular Mexican cuisine, as the three ingredients complement each other perfectly: the acidity of the tomatillo contrasts with the richness of the egg, and the cactus provides a mucilaginous texture that thickens the salsa and a slight vegetal acidity that refreshes the whole. Refried beans, served alongside or mixed into the plate, complete the protein and fibre content to make this breakfast a complete meal. Huevos al albañil are close cousins of huevos rancheros (with red salsa) and huevos divorciados (with both red and green salsa at once). The key difference is that in huevos al albañil the eggs are cooked inside the simmering green salsa, absorbing its flavour and creating a more integrated mixture than when served separately. Today this dish remains a staple at fondas, comedores and markets throughout central Mexico, where it is served with hot corn tortillas at an affordable price for all pockets.