Torta Cubana

History & Origin

The torta cubana is a gastronomic enigma whose invention is disputed by several Mexico City establishments, though the most widely accepted version places it in the 1950s at a lonchería (luncheonette) in the historic centre. The name 'cubana' baffles even Mexicans themselves: there is nothing Cuban about it, neither in its ingredients nor its technique. One popular theory suggests it was created by an immigrant cook from the island using whatever came to hand; another, more prosaic account holds that it was simply a way of naming something extraordinary and exuberant - 'like Cuba'. What is certain is that the torta cubana embodies the philosophy of Mexico City market food: nothing goes to waste, everything can go in a roll. The breaded escalope, a direct legacy of nineteenth-century Italian immigration (the milanesa is a close cousin of the cotoletta alla milanese), became the soul of this sandwich. The fried egg placed on top is a touch reminiscent of the set breakfasts at downtown fondas. In markets such as La Merced, Medellín and Jamaica, torterías assemble enormous cubanas that barely fit in the mouth, wrapping them in brown paper so customers can carry them without them falling apart. The cubana is also a symbol of informal Mexico City food culture: no printed menu, just a chalkboard, and the price is always reasonable given the sheer abundance.