Barbacoa and Birria: Differences, History and Recipes

Two distinct dishes the world confuses

In recent years, especially since birria tacos went viral on social media, the terms "barbacoa" and "birria" are frequently used as synonyms outside Mexico. But in Mexico, they are two completely different dishes with distinct histories, techniques, ingredients and regions of origin. Confusing them is like confusing paella with brothy rice - they share a base ingredient but are very different things.

Barbacoa: the art of cooking underground

What barbacoa is

Barbacoa is, in its purest form, meat cooked in a pit dug in the ground, over hot stones, covered with maguey (agave) leaves and topped with earth to create an airtight underground oven. The cooking is slow - between 8 and 14 hours - and the result is meat so tender it shreds on its own, infused with the smoky aroma of the maguey and the earth.

Barbacoa is originally from central Mexico: the State of Mexico, Hidalgo, Tlaxcala and Puebla. It is a Sunday dish par excellence - the markets of these states fill up with barbacoa stalls every Saturday and Sunday morning.

Types of meat for barbacoa

• Lamb/mutton (borrego): The classic meat of central Mexican barbacoa. The whole animal is used: leg, rib, head, tongue, belly. Each part has its devotees.
• Beef: In northern Mexico (especially Monterrey), barbacoa is made with cow's head. It is different - more gelatinous, with varied textures between cheek, tongue and eye.
• Goat: In Oaxaca and Guerrero, barbacoa is made with goat in a special pit called an "earthen oven".

The consommé: the hidden treasure

What makes barbacoa special is not just the meat - it is the consommé that forms during cooking. At the bottom of the pit a pot is placed with chickpeas, rice, guajillo chile, onion and herbs. During the hours of cooking, the juices of the meat drip onto this pot, creating a concentrated, rich, deeply flavoursome broth.

Barbacoa consommé is served in a separate bowl, with chopped onion, cilantro and serrano chile. It is the universal hangover remedy in Mexico - the famous "raise-the-dead". Many say the consommé is better than the meat itself.

Birria: the spiced stew of Jalisco

What birria is

Birria is a stew of meat marinated in an elaborate sauce of dried chiles and spices, slow-cooked until the meat shreds. Unlike barbacoa, birria is cooked in liquid (not steamed/baked) and has a complex sauce as the star.

Birria is originally from Jalisco (Guadalajara) and has spread across all of Mexico and the world. Its name comes possibly from the Spanish "birria" (a worthless thing), ironically used to describe one of the most delicious dishes there is.

The meat of birria

• Goat: The original birria of Jalisco is made with goat. Its strong flavor combines perfectly with the chiles and spices of the sauce.
• Beef: Beef birria has become more popular because it is more accessible and less intense in flavor. It is the version used for the famous birria tacos.
• Lamb/mutton: Some regions make lamb birria, fusing elements of birria and barbacoa.

The sauce of birria

The birria sauce is what defines it and differentiates it from barbacoa. It is made with:

• Guajillo, ancho and de árbol chiles (the holy trinity of birria)
• Roasted tomatoes
• Spices: cumin, clove, black pepper, allspice, oregano, thyme, marjoram
• Apple cider vinegar
• Roasted onion and garlic
• Ginger (yes, ginger - it is a secret ingredient of Jaliscan birria)

The sauce is blended and used both to marinate the meat before cooking and to bathe it during cooking. The result is meat completely infused with flavor - every fibre tastes of chile and spices.

Key differences: barbacoa vs birria

• Cooking technique: Barbacoa = steam/oven underground. Birria = stewed in liquid.
• Sauce: Barbacoa = no complex sauce, the flavor comes from the maguey and the slow cooking. Birria = the sauce is the star.
• Region: Barbacoa = central Mexico. Birria = Jalisco/west.
• Consommé: Barbacoa = consommé of natural juices. Birria = spiced broth, part of the stew.
• Accompaniment: Barbacoa = salsa borracha and guacamole on the side. Birria = onion, cilantro and lime.

The birria tacos that conquered the world

The birria tacos (or "tacos de birria" or "quesabirria") that went viral on TikTok are a relatively recent invention from Tijuana. They are made by dipping the tortilla in the red fat of the birria broth, filling it with shredded meat and cheese, and griddling it until the tortilla is crisp and red. They are served with a bowl of consommé to dip the taco - the famous "dip".

It is a brilliant fusion that combines Jaliscan birria with Tijuana taco culture. Its global popularity has put birria on the world map, although the viral version is just one of the many ways to eat birria.

How to make birria in Spain

Birria is more accessible than barbacoa to cook at home in Spain, because you do not need a pit in the ground:

Adapted recipe

• 1.5kg beef flank or cheek (Iberian cheek works spectacularly)
• 6 guajillo chiles, 3 ancho chiles, 2 chiles de árbol (from Mexican shops)
• 3 roasted tomatoes, 1 roasted onion, 6 roasted cloves of garlic
• Spices: cumin, clove, black pepper, allspice, oregano, thyme
• 1 piece of ginger (2cm), 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
• Salt, 1 litre beef stock

Toast and soak the chiles. Blend with tomato, onion, garlic, spices, ginger and vinegar. Place the meat in a slow cooker (or a casserole with a lid), bathe with the sauce and add the stock. Cook over low heat for 4 to 5 hours (or in a slow cooker for 8 hours) until the meat shreds with a fork.

For birria tacos: dip corn tortillas in the rich broth, top with shredded meat and mozzarella cheese, and griddle until crisp. Serve with consommé on the side for dipping.

Barbacoa adapted to the oven

Without a pit in the ground, barbacoa can be adapted to the oven with very decent results:

Use a leg of lamb, salted and wrapped in foil (a substitute for the maguey). Place on a rack inside a pot with a lid, with chickpeas, onion, guajillo chile and herbs in the bottom with water. Bake at 150°C for 5 to 6 hours. The meat will cook in the steam and the juices will fall into the broth below.

"Barbacoa is eaten on Sundays at 10 in the morning. Birria is eaten any day at any hour. Both are eaten with the hands, with lime and with appetite."

Find the chiles and ingredients for birria and barbacoa in our Mexican shops, explore step-by-step recipes and try authentic versions in Mexican restaurants in Spain.