Chiles rellenos: beyond the classic cheese version

When you think of chiles rellenos, you probably picture a battered poblano chile with melted cheese inside, bathed in tomato sauce. And yes, that is the classic - and it is glorious. But chiles rellenos in Mexico are a far broader and more diverse universe than most people imagine. There are stuffed chiles filled with picadillo, seafood, beans, herbed goat's cheese, rice, chicken in mole. There are poblano, jalapeño, ancho, chipotle and even habanero chiles stuffed. And the salsas that bathe them range from the classic tomato to mole, sweetcorn cream or nogada.

In this article we explore the most delicious variations of Mexican chiles rellenos, with detailed techniques and adaptations for making them in the US.

The base technique: roast, peel and devein

Regardless of the filling, the process of preparing the chile is the same and it is essential to master it:

1. Roast: Place the chiles directly over the gas flame (or under the oven grill at maximum power). Turn with tongs every 30-60 seconds until all the skin is black and blistered. Do not be afraid of burning them - the skin will come off.
2. Steam: Put the roasted chiles straight into a sealed plastic bag or a bowl covered with cling film. Leave to rest for 10-15 minutes. The steam loosens the skin.
3. Peel: Rub the burnt skin off with your fingers under a gentle stream of water. It will come away easily. Do not worry if small black bits remain - they add a smoky flavor.
4. Devein: Make a lengthwise incision without reaching the ends. Carefully remove the seeds and the white veins inside. The chile should be like a pocket open on one side.
5. Stuff: Insert your chosen filling without overloading - the chile must be able to close.

In the US: The poblano chile is substituted with a large green Romano (Italian) pepper. It is not identical - the poblano has a hint of heat - but the texture and size are perfect. If you want some heat, add a chopped green chile to the filling.

1. Cheese-stuffed chile (the classic)

The most popular across the whole of Mexico. The filling is simply a good melting cheese: Oaxaca cheese in Mexico (like string cheese), mozzarella or a mild semi-cured cheese in the US.

Making the batter: Separate the egg whites from the yolks. Whisk the whites to firm peaks. Fold in the yolks one at a time, mixing gently. Lightly flour each stuffed chile, dip it in the batter and fry in hot oil until golden on both sides. Drain on kitchen paper.

The tomato sauce: Roast 4 tomatoes, 1/4 onion and 2 garlic cloves. Blend. Fry the sauce in a pan with a little oil until it darkens and thickens (5-7 minutes). Season with salt and a pinch of sugar. Bathe the battered chiles with this sauce and serve immediately.

2. Picadillo-stuffed chile

The picadillo for stuffed chiles is different from the one for chiles en nogada - it is simpler and savory, without fruit:

• 400g of ground beef
• 1 cooked potato cut into small cubes
• 1 cooked carrot, chopped
• 2 chopped tomatoes
• 1/4 chopped onion
• 2 garlic cloves
• 1 teaspoon of cumin
• Salt and pepper

Soften the onion and garlic, add the meat, then the tomato and spices. When the meat is cooked, stir in the potato and carrot. Cook for a further 10 minutes. Stuff the chiles and proceed with the batter.

3. Seafood-stuffed chile

An elegant variant from the coasts of Veracruz and Sinaloa that surprises with its delicacy:

• 200g of shrimp, chopped
• 200g of cooked octopus, chopped (or surimi as an economical alternative)
• 1 chopped tomato
• 1/4 chopped onion
• Fresh cilantro
• Chopped serrano chile (to taste)
• Lime juice

Sauté the seafood briefly with onion, tomato and chile. Do not overcook - the shrimp should stay juicy. Stuff the chiles and, instead of battering, serve these chiles roasted without batter, bathed in a creamy chipotle salsa (blend chipotles in adobo with sour cream).

4. Ancho chile stuffed with beans and cheese

This is a different preparation because it uses dried chiles (not fresh). The ancho chiles are rehydrated briefly - not fully, so they keep their shape - and stuffed with refried beans and cheese.

Method: Toast the ancho chiles in a dry pan for 20 seconds per side. Soak them in hot water for ONLY 5 minutes (no more, or they fall apart). Drain and open them carefully. Stuff with a mix of refried black beans, crumbled cheese and a touch of epazote. You can fry them lightly in a pan or serve them as they are, bathed in cream and salsa verde.

5. Jalapeño stuffed with cream cheese

Stuffed jalapeños are popular as a nibble. They are made with fresh or pickled jalapeños, filled with cream cheese mixed with spices, and baked or served cold.

Quick method: Cut large jalapeños in half lengthwise. Remove the seeds. Mix cream cheese with a little grated Cheddar, garlic powder and chopped chives. Fill each half. For a crisp version: wrap each half in a strip of bacon and bake at 200°C for 15-20 minutes. It is the perfect nibble for a night of Mexican recipes.

6. Rice-stuffed chile (vegetarian version)

For a completely vegetarian version that does not sacrifice flavor:

• Cooked rice mixed with black beans, sweetcorn kernels, chopped tomato, cilantro and cumin
• Grated cheese (optional)

Stuff the chiles with the rice mixture. There is no need to batter them - place in an ovenproof dish, bathe with red or green salsa, cover with grated cheese and bake at 180°C for 20 minutes until the cheese melts and browns.

7. Stuffed chile in tomato broth (northern style)

In northern Mexico, stuffed chiles are served in a tomato broth (caldillo) instead of a thick sauce. The chile is battered and floats in the broth, making it more of a spoon dish than a fork one.

The broth: Blend 6 roasted tomatoes with onion and garlic. Strain and boil in a large pot with 2 cups of chicken stock. Season with salt and pepper. Submerge the battered chiles in the hot broth just before serving. It is comforting and perfect for winter.

The salsas: the perfect complement

Each type of stuffed chile calls for its salsa:

• Red tomato sauce: The universal classic. Works with all of them.
• Tomatillo salsa verde: Perfect with cheese-stuffed chiles.
• Chipotle cream: Ideal with seafood or chicken fillings.
• Nogada: For chiles en nogada with sweet-and-savory picadillo.
• Red mole: For special occasions, a cheese-stuffed chile bathed in mole is spectacular.
• Tomato broth: For the northern version in broth.

Tips for perfect chiles rellenos

• Do not overstuff: The chile must be able to close without forcing. If it opens during frying, the filling escapes and the oil spits.
• Dry well before battering: A wet chile will not hold the batter. Dry it with kitchen paper.
• Batter at the last minute: The egg batter is made just before frying. It cannot be prepared in advance.
• Oil at the right temperature: 170-180°C. If it is too hot, the batter burns on the outside and stays raw inside. If it is too cold, the chile absorbs too much oil.
• Drain well: Place the battered chiles on kitchen paper before bathing them in salsa.

Chiles rellenos are one of the great expressions of Mexican cooking, a dish that combines technique, flavor and tradition in every bite. Find more inspiration in our Mexican recipes and discover where to try them at Mexican restaurants in the US. Try a different version this week!