Mexican Seafood: Aguachile, Coctel and Coastal Cooking

Mexico has 11,000km of coastline and it shows in its cooking

When we think of Mexican food, the first dishes that come to mind are usually meat tacos, moles and beans. But Mexico is a country with more than 11,000 kilometres of coastline bathed by two oceans - the Pacific and the Atlantic (Gulf of Mexico and Caribbean). This immense coastline has given rise to a seafood tradition as rich and varied as the cooking of the interior.

From the fierce aguachile of Sinaloa to the coconut shrimp of Guerrero, from the tuna tostadas of Baja California to the pan de cazón of Campeche, Mexican coastal cooking is a whole world to discover. And it has an advantage for those of us who live in Spain: we have access to fresh seafood of exceptional quality, often superior to that available on Mexico's own coasts.

Aguachile: the dish conquering the world

Aguachile was born in Sinaloa, on the Pacific coast of Mexico. In its purest form, it is raw shrimp butterflied, bathed in a sauce of serrano chile, lime, red onion, cucumber and cilantro. The acid of the lime slightly "cooks" the shrimp (as in ceviche) but the cooking is minimal - the shrimp must be practically raw, translucent and firm.

What distinguishes aguachile from ceviche is the intensity. While Peruvian ceviche seeks balance and freshness, aguachile seeks impact: more chile, more lime, more onion, more heat. It is a dish that wakes you up, shakes you, makes you sweat and come back for more.

Variations of aguachile

• Green aguachile (classic): Serrano chile, lime, cilantro. It is the Sinaloan original.
• Black aguachile: Serrano chile + soy sauce + toasted dried chile. Dark, umami, addictive.
• Red aguachile: Toasted chile de árbol or chile piquín. Smokier and spicier.
• Habanero aguachile: With habanero and mango. The Yucatecan version that combines fruity with explosive.

Aguachile in Spain

Spain is the perfect place to make aguachile. The red shrimp of Dénia or Huelva, the white shrimp of the Mediterranean or even good-quality langoustines work spectacularly. The key: the shrimp must be genuinely fresh (not frozen) if you are serving it raw. Buy at the market fishmonger, not the supermarket.

Quick green aguachile recipe:

• 400g peeled shrimp, butterflied in half
• 8 limes (juice), 4 serrano chiles (or hot green guindillas), cilantro, salt
• ½ cucumber in thin slices, ½ red onion in slivers

Blend the chiles with the lime juice, cilantro and salt. Place the shrimp on a flat plate, bathe with the sauce, add cucumber and onion. Let it rest for 5 minutes (no more) and serve immediately with corn tostadas.

Shrimp cocktail: the coastal classic

The Mexican coctel de camarón has nothing to do with the American or American shrimp cocktail. It is a cold tomato soup with cooked shrimp, onion, cilantro, avocado, hot sauce and lime juice, served in a large glass or cup with crackers.

It is the beach food par excellence in Mexico - on any Mexican coast you will find carts and stalls selling shrimp cocktails. It is refreshing, nutritious and perfect for the Spanish summer.

Secret: The tomato base is not ketchup (as in the gringo version). It is Clamato-style or V8 tomato juice, or better still, natural tomato blended with a little orange juice and hot sauce like Valentina or Búfalo.

Tuna tostadas and ceviche

Ensenada-style tuna tostada

Baja California, the wine region of Mexico, has its own seafood tradition influenced by Japanese cooking (there is a large Japanese-Mexican community). The tuna tostada has diced red tuna marinated in soy sauce and lime, on a corn tostada with chipotle mayo, avocado and seaweed.

In Spain: With the almadraba red tuna fished in Cádiz and Barbate, this recipe reaches extraordinary heights. Spanish tuna is, frankly, superior to what is available in many Mexican coastal cities.

Fish ceviche

Mexican ceviche differs from the Peruvian in several respects: it has tomato, it is marinated longer (the fish ends up more "cooked" by the acid), and it is served on a tostada, not in a deep bowl. The white fish is cut into small cubes and cured in lime with onion, cilantro, chile and tomato. The marinade can be from 30 minutes to several hours.

Ensenada-style fish tacos

Fish tacos were born in Ensenada, Baja California, in the 1950s. White fish fillet (grouper, sea bass or similar) coated in a light beer batter, fried until golden, served in a corn tortilla with shredded cabbage, chipotle cream, pico de gallo and lime.

It is the coastal taco by definition and it works perfectly with Spanish fish: hake, blue whiting, small whiting or rockfish. The batter should be thin and crisp - not a thick tempura-style batter, but a thin, airy coating.

Camarones a la diabla

Shrimp sautéed in an extremely spicy sauce of guajillo chile, chile de árbol, garlic and tomato. The name does not lie - it is a dish for those who like fire. The shrimp are cooked for just 2 to 3 minutes in the sauce so they stay juicy, and the sauce is reduced until it coats the shrimp like a spicy glaze.

They are served with red rice and corn tortillas to make tacos on the spot. With Spanish shrimp, the result is spectacular.

Pan de cazón

Pan de cazón is a dish from Campeche that could be considered a fish "Mexican lasagne". Layers of corn tortilla alternating with shredded cazón (small shark) stewed with tomato and chile, black bean spread and habanero salsa. It is baked until the layers fuse.

In Spain, substitute the cazón with real cazón (tope shark) or shredded canned tuna. The layered structure works with any firm-textured fish.

Shrimp broth

Caldo de camarón is the quintessential Mexican hangover remedy (they call it "vuelve a la vida", come back to life). A red shrimp broth with guajillo chile, tomato, onion, garlic and aromatic herbs, with the whole shrimp (with head and shell for maximum flavor). It is served boiling with lime, chopped onion and chile piquín.

The secret of the deep flavor is to cook the heads and shells first to make a concentrated fumet, then strain and add the chile and spices.

Tips for Mexican seafood in Spain

• Freshness above all: For aguachile and ceviche, the seafood must be of the day. Go to the market fishmonger early.
• Green limes: Mexican coastal cooking uses lime (called "lima" in Spain). The Spanish yellow lemon has a different profile - look for limes or combine yellow lemon with a little lime juice.
• Heat: Mexican coastal dishes tend to be spicy. Do not skimp on chile - the heat combines perfectly with seafood.
• Tostadas: Buy corn tostadas in Mexican shops or make them yourself: fry corn tortillas in oil until rigid and golden.

"On the Mexican coast you do not eat seafood - you live seafood. It is the first meal of the day and the last conversation of the night."

Discover more Mexican seafood recipes and find the special ingredients in our recommended shops. Try authentic Mexican seafood in Mexican restaurants that specialize in coastal cooking.