The world of mole: over 100 varieties you might not know

When most people outside Mexico think of mole, they picture a dark, thick sauce with chocolate. But reducing mole to that single image is like saying Spanish wine is only red Rioja. The reality is that mole is a gastronomic universe with more than 100 documented varieties, each with its own history, ingredients, technique and cultural significance.

Mole (from the Nahuatl molli, meaning "sauce" or "mixture") is the ultimate expression of Mexican cooking: a dish that can contain between 15 and 35 ingredients, that requires hours or even days of preparation, and that represents the fusion of pre-Hispanic, colonial and contemporary traditions. Let us explore this fascinating world beyond what is usually known.

The 7 moles of Oaxaca: the mother tradition

Oaxaca is known as "the land of the seven moles", and it is where the mole-making tradition is deepest and most diverse:

1. Black mole

The king of moles. It is the most complex and laborious of all. It uses chilhuacle negro chiles (endemic to Oaxaca, almost impossible to find elsewhere), chocolate, plantain, bread, spices (cinnamon, pepper, cumin, clove, thyme, marjoram, oregano) and a secret ingredient: chile seeds toasted until almost charred, which gives it its deep black colour and a unique smoky flavour. A good black mole can contain 30+ ingredients and 2-3 days of preparation.

2. Red mole

More accessible than the black but equally delicious. It uses ancho, guajillo and pasilla chiles, tomato, chocolate (less than the black) and spices. It is the "everyday" mole in many Oaxacan homes, especially for enchiladas and enmoladas.

3. Coloradito mole

A brick-red mole with ancho chile as the star, tomato, garlic, chocolate, cinnamon and sugar. It is sweeter than the red and is frequently used with chicken. Its name ("coloradito" = little red one) describes its characteristic terracotta tone.

4. Yellow mole

It uses chilcostle and yellow costeño chiles, which give it a golden colour. It is lighter than the previous ones and is made with hoja santa (a herb with an anise note) that gives it a completely different aromatic profile. It is usually served with chochoyotes (little corn-masa dumplings) floating in the sauce.

5. Green mole

Made with fresh herbs (epazote, hoja santa, cilantro, parsley), toasted pumpkin seeds, tomatillos and green chile. It is fresh, herbaceous and much lighter than the dark moles. Perfect for summer.

6. Chichilo

The rarest and hardest to find even in Oaxaca. It uses smoked dried chiles, miltomate (a wild variety of tomatillo) and avocado leaves. Its flavour is deeply smoky, almost mysterious. It is traditionally made with beef.

7. Manchamanteles

The sweet mole. Its name literally means "tablecloth-stainer" because its intense red colour stains everything it touches. It combines chiles with tropical fruit: pineapple, plantain, apple, pear. It is sweet-and-sour and served with chicken or pork. It is a celebration of Oaxaca's fruit abundance.

The moles of Puebla: the other great tradition

Puebla disputes the title of capital of mole with Oaxaca, and its varieties are equally extraordinary:

Mole poblano

The most famous in the world. Legend says it was created by nuns at the Convent of Santa Rosa in Puebla to impress the viceroy. It uses mulato, ancho and pasilla chiles, chocolate, almonds, peanuts, raisins, plantain, bread, spices and more. An authentic mole poblano can contain more than 25 ingredients and its flavour is a symphony impossible to describe: sweet, spicy, smoky, spiced, fruity, all at once without any one flavour dominating.

Mole de caderas (Huaxmole)

A unique tradition of the Puebla Mixteca that is only made during the goat slaughter in October-November. It uses goat meat, bones (hence "de caderas", of the hips), costeño chile and beans. It is so specific that there is an annual festival dedicated to it in Tehuacán. It is impossible to replicate outside its context, which makes it one of the most exclusive moles in the world.

Red and green pipián

Technically a mole, pipián is based on seeds: pumpkin seeds for the green, and a mixture of pumpkin seeds, peanuts and sesame for the red. These are pre-Hispanic sauces that existed before the arrival of the Spanish (before the chocolate, almonds and Asian spices that the colonisers brought).

Lesser-known regional moles

Mole prieto (Tlaxcala)

A dark mole that differs from Oaxacan black by using corn masa as a thickener and pork bones in its base. It is more rustic and earthy, and is made in large quantities for community festivals.

Mole de olla

More a broth than a sauce: it is a beef stew with corn on the cob, squash, green beans, chayote and epazote in a guajillo-and-ancho-chile broth. It is eaten with a spoon and is the Mexican comfort food par excellence. It is the Mexican equivalent of a hearty boiled dinner.

Clemole (Guerrero)

A light green mole from Guerrero made with epazote, crumbled tamales as a thickener and green chile. It is served with river shrimp and is completely different from any other mole. It shows how each region adapts the concept of mole to its local ingredients.

Mole de Xico (Veracruz)

Xico is a Veracruz "magical town" famous for its mole, which is distinguished by using local tropical fruit and a different balance of spices. During the Magdalena festivities in July, the whole town cooks mole in industrial quantities.

Almond mole (Guanajuato)

A more delicate and refined mole that uses almonds as the main ingredient instead of the pumpkin seeds or peanuts more common in other states. It is mild, creamy and elegant.

The science and art of making mole

Making mole from scratch is an act of patience and love. These are the fundamental principles:

Toasting the chiles: Dried chiles are briefly toasted on a comal until they change colour and become flexible. Toasting them too much makes them bitter. It is the most critical step.

Soaking the chiles: After toasting, they are soaked in hot water for 20-30 minutes until soft. The soaking water can be used in the sauce for more flavour.

Toasting seeds and spices separately: Each ingredient is toasted individually because they have different timings: sesame needs 1 minute, peanuts 3, almonds 5. Burning is irreversible.

Blending and straining: Everything is blended (usually in batches) and strained to obtain a fine sauce. Traditionally it was ground on a metate (volcanic-stone mortar), which gave a different texture.

Frying the sauce: The sauce is fried in hot oil or lard. This step (called the "refrito") is fundamental: it intensifies the flavours and changes the texture of the sauce.

Long cooking: A good mole needs at least 30-60 minutes of cooking over low heat after frying, stirring constantly so it does not catch. The flavours blend and round out over time.

Where to try mole in the UK

More and more Mexican restaurants offer authentic moles. Look for restaurants that specify "homemade mole" or "artisan mole" on their menu. Those using commercial mole paste (Doña María, La Costeña) produce decent results but not comparable to artisan mole.

You can also buy mole paste in Mexican shops to prepare at home. It is the most practical option for everyday cooking, and with good base ingredients (quality chicken, well-made rice, fresh tortillas) you can create a very satisfying experience.

Mole is much more than a recipe: it is a living heritage that evolves with each cook who prepares it. Each mole is unique, each family has its version, each town has its variant. Exploring the world of mole is a gastronomic journey that can last a lifetime. Start with our article on mole poblano and continue discovering the Mexican recipes that make this one of the richest cuisines on the planet.