Oaxacan black mole: the king of the moles

Oaxaca: the land of the seven moles

If Mexico is the country of mole, Oaxaca is its undisputed capital. This state in south-eastern Mexico is famous for its seven traditional moles: negro (black), rojo (red), coloradito, amarillo (yellow), verde (green), chichilo and manchamanteles. Each has its own combination of chiles, spices, techniques and occasions for serving it.

But among them all, there is one that reigns supreme: the black mole. Considered the most complex, sophisticated and difficult to prepare of all the Mexican moles, Oaxacan black mole is a culinary masterpiece that can take more than 30 ingredients and 2-3 days of preparation.

What makes black mole special?

What distinguishes black mole from other moles is its depth of flavor. While a mole poblano has a sweet-spiced profile, Oaxacan black mole has layer upon layer of complexity: bitter, sweet, smoky, spicy, herbal, toasted and umami, all in perfect harmony.

This complexity comes from three factors:

1. The exclusive chiles: black mole uses chiles found only in Oaxaca, especially the chilhuacle negro
2. The burning technique: several ingredients are toasted until partially charred, which creates controlled bitter notes that give depth
3. The quantity of ingredients: an authentic black mole can take 30+ ingredients, each adding a layer of flavor

The chiles of black mole

Black mole needs chiles that are difficult to find outside Oaxaca, which makes it a dish almost impossible to replicate authentically abroad:

• Chilhuacle negro chile: the signature chile of black mole. Large, with a thin skin and a plum flavor with notes of chocolate. It is endemic to the Oaxacan Cañada and increasingly scarce.
• Mulato chile: brings sweetness and notes of chocolate
• Oaxacan pasilla (mixe) chile: a smoky chile different from the pasilla of central Mexico
• Chipotle chile: for the smoky component
• Ancho chile: for sweetness and body

The ingredients of black mole (complete list)

An authentic Oaxacan black mole contains all of these ingredients:

Chiles: chilhuacle negro (6-8), mulato (4), Oaxacan pasilla (4), chipotle (2-3), ancho (2)

Seeds and nuts: toasted sesame seeds, pumpkin seeds, peanuts, walnuts, almonds

Fruit: ripe fried plantain, prunes, raisins

Aromatics: roasted onion, roasted garlic, roasted tomato, roasted tomatillo

Spices: cinnamon, clove, black pepper, allspice, cumin, thyme, Oaxacan oregano, marjoram

Other: Oaxacan table chocolate, burnt tortilla, toasted egg bread, avocado leaf (dried, toasted), burnt chilhuacle (for the black color)

The “burning” technique

What truly distinguishes black mole is the burning technique. Several ingredients are deliberately taken to the point of charring:

• Burnt tortillas: tortillas are burnt directly over the flame until they are black. They are soaked and blended to give a black color and controlled bitter notes.
• Burnt chilhuacle chiles: some chilhuacles are completely burnt (charcoal black) and ground. This is what gives the mole its intense black color.
• Toasted avocado leaves: they are toasted until fragrant (an aniseed and earthy flavor).

This technique requires experience: the line between “controlled burning” and “irrecoverable bitterness” is thin. The Oaxacan cooks who master black mole have learned from their mothers and grandmothers over decades.

Simplified preparation (for the US)

Making a 100% authentic black mole in the US is almost impossible due to the lack of chilhuacle negro. But you can make an excellent version with substitutions:

Substitution for chilhuacle negro: use a combination of ancho chile (for sweetness), pasilla chile (for bitterness) and mulato chile (for the chocolate notes). It will not be identical, but it comes close.

1. Day 1 - Prepare the components:
   • Toast and rehydrate the chiles separately
   • Toast sesame seeds, pumpkin seeds, peanuts, almonds and walnuts
   • Roast tomatoes, tomatillos, onion and garlic
   • Fry the ripe plantain
   • Burn 2-3 tortillas directly over the flame
   • Briefly toast the whole spices
2. Day 2 - Grind and cook:
   • Blend all the ingredients in batches with chicken stock
   • Strain through a fine sieve (an important step)
   • Fry the paste in lard or oil for 15-20 minutes, stirring constantly
   • Add chicken stock gradually until you reach the desired consistency
   • Add Oaxacan chocolate (or 70% dark chocolate with cinnamon)
   • Cook over a low heat for 1-2 hours, stirring frequently
   • Adjust the salt, sweetness (with sugar or piloncillo) and consistency

How to serve black mole

Black mole is traditionally served over:

• Chicken or turkey: cooked pieces bathed in mole
• Black mole tamales: wrapped in banana leaf
• Black mole enchiladas: tortillas bathed in mole with chicken

It is accompanied by white rice (not red), warm corn tortillas and a sprinkling of toasted sesame seeds.

Black mole in Oaxacan culture

Black mole is not an everyday dish: it is celebration food. It is prepared for weddings, christenings, patron-saint festivals and the Day of the Dead. In the indigenous communities of Oaxaca, the preparation of mole is a communal act: the women of the family gather to grind, toast and cook for days.

This tradition is alive but threatened: chilhuacle negro is increasingly scarce and expensive, and the new generations do not always learn the techniques of their grandmothers. Organizations such as the Conservatory of Mexican Gastronomic Culture work to preserve these traditions.

Where to try black mole in the US

Some Mexican restaurants in the US offer black mole, although it is hard to find truly authentic versions. Look for restaurants with an Oaxacan chef or that import artisan black-mole paste directly from Oaxaca.

You can also buy black-mole paste in some specialist Mexican shops. The best brands are the artisan ones from Oaxaca (not the commercial supermarket ones). With a good mole paste, you only need to thin it with stock and cook it to get an excellent result.

Oaxacan black mole is the pinnacle of Mexican cooking: a dish that sums up millennia of culinary tradition in a single mouthful. Discover more about moles and Oaxacan cooking on our blog and explore our Mexican recipes.