Pozole: three colors, three recipes, one tradition

Pozole is one of the oldest and best-loved dishes in Mexico. Its history goes back to pre-Hispanic times, when the Aztecs prepared a ceremonial broth with cacahuazintle maize and offerings to the gods. Today, pozole is a synonym for celebration, family and Thursday - yes, in Mexico Thursday is pozole day, a tradition kept alive in fondas and homes all over the country.

There are three main versions: red pozole (Jalisco and Guerrero), green pozole (Guerrero and Morelos) and white pozole (the oldest, without chiles). Each has its own personality, ingredients and serving ritual. In this article we teach you all three complete recipes so you can choose your favorite - or better still, try all three.

Cacahuazintle maize: the soul of pozole

What sets pozole apart from any other broth is the cacahuazintle (also spelled cacahuacintle) maize. It is a variety of maize with a large, round, mealy grain that, when cooked, opens like a flower - what in Mexico we call the maize “bursting” or “flowering”.

In the US, you can find pozole maize in Mexican and Latin shops. It is sold dried (it needs 3-4 hours of cooking) or pre-cooked in a can or jar (ready in 30 minutes). If it is your first time, start with the pre-cooked - the result is very good and saves you hours in the kitchen.

If you use dried maize, the process is this: soak the maize overnight in plenty of water. The next day, boil it in fresh water for 3-4 hours over a medium heat, until the grains open. Add a tablespoon of cal (calcium hydroxide, available in Mexican shops) at the start of cooking to help the process.

Red pozole: the Jalisco classic

Red pozole is probably the best-known version outside Mexico. Its base is a pork broth tinted intense red by a salsa of guajillo and ancho chiles. It is comforting, deep and addictive.

Ingredients (8 portions):

• 1kg of pork collar (or shoulder) in large pieces
• 500g of pre-cooked cacahuazintle maize (or 300g dried)
• 6 guajillo chiles
• 3 ancho chiles
• 4 garlic cloves
• 1/2 white onion
• 1 teaspoon of Mexican oregano (or normal oregano)
• Salt to taste
• 2.5 litres of water

To serve (the garnish is FUNDAMENTAL):

• Iceberg lettuce cut into fine strips
• Radishes in thin slices
• Chopped white onion
• Dried oregano
• Ground chile piquín or toasted chile de árbol
• Corn tostadas
• Limes in quarters
• Sliced avocado

Method:

1. Boil the pork in 2.5 litres of water with half an onion and 2 garlic cloves. Skim the surface during the first 15 minutes. Cook for 1.5-2 hours until the meat is tender.
2. Meanwhile, prepare the salsa: toast the guajillo and ancho chiles in a dry pan for 30 seconds per side. Soak in hot water for 15 minutes.
3. Blend the soaked chiles with 2 garlic cloves and a little of the soaking water to a smooth salsa. Strain.
4. When the meat is ready, remove it and shred it into large pieces. Strain the broth.
5. In the same pot, pour in the strained chile salsa and fry for 5 minutes, stirring.
6. Add the strained broth, the cacahuazintle maize and the shredded meat.
7. Cook over a medium heat for a further 30-40 minutes. Season with oregano and salt.
8. Serve in large deep bowls with ALL the garnishes on the table.

Green pozole: the one from Guerrero

Green pozole is the least-known gem outside Mexico, but for many Mexicans it is the best of the three. Its intense green color comes from a salsa of pumpkin seeds, green chiles, green tomato, lettuce and herbs. It is lighter and more herbal than the red, with an absolutely unique flavor.

Additional ingredients for the green salsa:

• 100g of pumpkin seeds (shelled)
• 6 green tomatoes (tomatillos) or green plum tomatoes
• 3 serrano chiles (or green chiles)
• 3 leaves of romaine lettuce
• A large bunch of cilantro
• 1/2 onion
• 3 garlic cloves
• 4 radish leaves (if you can find them) or watercress

Preparing the green salsa:

1. Toast the pumpkin seeds in a dry pan over a medium heat, stirring constantly until they start to brown and puff up (3-4 minutes). Do not burn them.
2. Boil the green tomatoes and serrano chiles in water for 10 minutes.
3. Blend everything: toasted seeds, cooked tomatoes and chiles, lettuce, cilantro, onion, garlic and herbs. Add a little pork broth to help the blending.
4. Strain the salsa and pour it into the pot with the pork broth. Add the maize and the meat.
5. Cook for 30 minutes over a medium heat. The pozole will take on a beautiful green color.

It is served with the same accompaniments as the red, plus chicharrón (crisp pork crackling), which is the star complement of green pozole.

White pozole: the original

White pozole is the oldest and purest version. It has no chile salsa - just a clean pork broth with cacahuazintle maize. All the flavor comes from a well-made broth and from the garnishes that accompany it. It is the version that lets each diner customise it completely.

Method: It is the base recipe of red pozole, but without adding the chile salsa. The broth is enriched by cooking the meat with a whole head of garlic, onion, aromatic herbs (thyme, marjoram, bay) and black pepper. The result is a golden, clean, comforting broth.

The beauty of white pozole is at the table: each person adds as much chile, lime, oregano and onion as they like. It is an interactive, customisable experience.

The ritual of serving pozole

In Mexico, serving pozole is quite a ritual. The deep bowl full of broth, maize and meat is placed in the center, and around it all the accompaniments are laid out in separate little dishes. Each person customises their pozole as they like:

1. First, a generous handful of finely cut lettuce over the hot broth.
2. Sliced radishes for freshness and crunch.
3. Chopped onion to taste.
4. A good squeeze of lime - essential.
5. Dried oregano crumbled between the fingers.
6. Ground chile piquín or hot sauce to taste.
7. Corn tostadas on the side - they are spread with cream and used as a spoon.

This ritual is an essential part of the pozole experience. Do not skimp on the garnishes.

Where to find the ingredients in the US

The hardest ingredient to find is cacahuazintle maize. Look in specialist Mexican shops - many stock both the dried maize and the pre-cooked jarred version. Guajillo and ancho chiles are easier to find in any Latin shop.

For the pumpkin seeds in green pozole, any health-food or nut shop has them. Make sure they are shelled and raw (unsalted and untoasted).

Regional and modern variations

• Seafood pozole (Sinaloa and Nayarit): Substitute the pork with shrimp and fish. The broth is made with fish stock and the result is lighter and more coastal.
• Vegetarian pozole: Use an intense vegetable stock with mushrooms as the protein. Vegetarian green pozole is particularly good, with the pumpkin seeds providing plant protein.
• Pozolillo: A lighter version from Guerrero with chicken, tender sweetcorn kernels and green salsa. It does not use cacahuazintle maize.

Pozole is much more than a soup: it is a tradition that brings Mexican families together every Thursday and at every special celebration. Making it in the US is bringing a piece of Mexico into your kitchen. Explore more traditional recipes in our section of Mexican recipes and find the ingredients in our directory of shops. Enjoy!