Chilaquiles: what they are, history and recipe for the Mexican breakfast

What is it?

Chilaquiles are a Mexican breakfast or brunch dish made from fried maize-tortilla totopos bathed in red, green or mole salsa, briefly simmered so that they soften without falling apart, and served with crema, crumbled queso fresco, sliced onion and, optionally, shredded chicken or egg on top. The name comes from the Nahuatl chīlāquilitl, meaning "herbs or vegetables in chilli". They are one of the most popular breakfasts in the country, present from humble fondas to luxury hotels, and constitute one of the main destinations for the tortilla totopo, a function that also gives them a key role in food reuse in domestic cooking.

Origin and history

Chilaquiles have a pre-Hispanic origin: they appear documented in Sahagún's Florentine Codex as chīlāquilitl, a preparation of tortillas passed through chilli sauce that the Aztecs served in the markets of Tenochtitlán. The recipe survived the Spanish Conquest practically unchanged because it combined only native ingredients: maize, chilli, salt and water. In the nineteenth century they appear in the first printed Mexican recipe book, El Cocinero Mexicano of 1831, already with the modern formula of fried tortilla, salsa, crema and cheese. By the late nineteenth and early twentieth century they had become popular as a bourgeois breakfast and as a hangover remedy in cantinas and fondas. Today they are one of the iconic breakfasts of Mexico City, Guadalajara and practically any city in the country, with countless regional variants.

Characteristic ingredients

The key ingredient is the totopo: triangles of nixtamalised maize tortilla, ideally from the day before so that it fries more crisply. The salsa can be red (tomato, chile guajillo or ancho), green (tomatillo, chile serrano or jalapeño and coriander) or mole poblano. After bathing the totopos they are simmered for one or two minutes: the trick is for them to remain soft but keep some body, not to fall apart. They are finished with Mexican soured cream, crumbled queso fresco or cotija, finely sliced white onion and coriander. Popular variants: chilaquiles divorciados (half red, half green), with a fried egg, with shredded chicken, with cecina, with steak, in mole or with refried beans on the side. In Sinaloa they are served with shredded meat and in the north with machaca.

Cultural significance

Chilaquiles are one of the most representative breakfasts of Mexico and feature on any "Mexican breakfast" menu from fondas to five-star hotels. They form part of the traditional Mexican cuisine inscribed by UNESCO in 2010 as Intangible Cultural Heritage. In Mexico City there is a genuine culinary rivalry between red and green chilaquiles, and in Sinaloa between chilaquiles served dry or brothy. Their economic importance is notable: they are one of the best-selling dishes in Mexican markets, fondas and restaurants because of the low investment in raw materials (day-old tortillas) and the high sales margin. They also fulfil a social function as a popular remedy against the cruda (hangover), a role they share with birria, broths and menudo, and they are one of the most widely adopted Mexican dishes in the United States alongside tacos.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between chilaquiles and enchiladas?

Enchiladas are made with a soft, rolled tortilla with a filling (cheese, chicken, meat), bathed in salsa afterwards. Chilaquiles use fried tortilla in triangles, are simmered in the salsa until softened, and are not filled. The texture and the method clearly distinguish them.

Why are they called chilaquiles?

The name comes from the Nahuatl chīlāquilitl: chīl (chilli) and āquilitl (something put or submerged in water), that is, "vegetables or herbs in chilli". It is documented by Sahagún in the sixteenth century as one of the antojitos sold in the Aztec markets.

Are chilaquiles red or green?

Both versions exist: red ones with tomato and chile guajillo or ancho salsa, green ones with tomatillo and chile serrano or jalapeño. The "divorciados" version is half and half. There are also chilaquiles in mole poblano. The choice is regional and personal.

Are chilaquiles served dry or brothy?

In central Mexico they are served brothy, with the salsa covering the totopos. In Sinaloa and the north dry chilaquiles are preferred, almost like a stew, with the salsa absorbed. Both schools are valid and the choice depends on the diner's taste and the restaurant.