Chile tabiche: the red chilli of the Valleys of Oaxaca

What is it?

Chile tabiche is a regional chilli grown in the Central Valleys of Oaxaca, part of the repertoire of chillies that sustain traditional Oaxacan cuisine. It exists in two forms: fresh tabiche (bright green, elongated and slim, 7-10 cm) and dried tabiche (dark wrinkled red after sun-drying). It belongs to the species Capsicum annuum. Its heat is moderate-high (8,000-15,000 Scoville units), above jalapeño. It brings a vegetal-herbal flavour when fresh and a fruity-slightly smoky one when dried, with notes of red berries. It is used in regional Oaxacan moles, raw and cooked salsas, Oaxacan stuffed chillies and traditional stews of the Central Valleys. It is one of the less internationally known regional chillies but a strong presence in Oaxacan markets such as Tlacolula, Etla and Zaachila.

Origin and history

Chile tabiche is a Mesoamerican chilli grown in the Central Valleys of Oaxaca since pre-Hispanic times. The Zapotec peoples have kept it as part of their traditional milpa for centuries. Larousse Cocina and Ricardo Munoz Zurita's Encyclopaedic Dictionary of Mexican Gastronomy identify it as a regional Oaxacan chilli with its own identity, distinct from chile de agua, chilcostle and chilhuacle. Oaxacan cuisine has been recognised by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity since 2010, and tabiche is part of the repertoire of regional chillies that sustain it. CONABIO documents tabiche as a regional variety of Capsicum annuum within the heritage of native Mexican chillies. SADER recognises it as a regional Oaxacan chilli with artisanal production. Its cultivation is concentrated in small family plots of the Central Valleys, where Zapotec producers maintain its seed and traditional sun-drying techniques.

Characteristic ingredients

Chile tabiche is a Capsicum annuum grown in the Central Valleys of Oaxaca. Fresh it measures 7-10 cm, elongated and slim, with smooth bright-green skin; for the dried version it is harvested when ripe red and dehydrated in the sun for several days, becoming wrinkled and dark red. Its heat is moderate-high (8,000-15,000 SHU). Its flesh is fine and brings a distinctive flavour: vegetal-herbal and crisp when fresh; fruity, slightly smoky and deep when dried, with notes of red berries and a sweet hint. To use it fresh, roast on the comal and devein for rajas or stuffing; for the dried version, briefly toast and rehydrate in hot water for about 15 minutes before blending. It is used in regional Oaxacan moles (especially smaller-scale red and coloradito moles), raw salsas with tomato and lime, Oaxacan stuffed chillies with fresh cheese, and stews such as beef steak in chile tabiche. It pairs very well with tomato, garlic, avocado leaf and coriander.

Cultural significance

Chile tabiche forms part of the repertoire of regional chillies of the Central Valleys of Oaxaca that sustain the Oaxacan cuisine recognised as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO since 2010. It is an everyday ingredient in traditional Zapotec kitchens and appears in regional moles, table salsas and stuffed chillies. Its artisanal production in small family plots sustains the economy of Zapotec producers of the Central Valleys. SADER and CONABIO recognise it as a regional chilli with cultural and genetic value. In the markets of Tlacolula, Etla and Zaachila it is sold fresh or dried depending on the season, as a local product. In contemporary cooking, Oaxacan chefs such as Alejandro Ruiz (Casa Oaxaca) and traditional cooks such as Abigail Mendoza (Tlamanalli) revive it to reclaim regional chillies in the face of market homogenisation. It is a representative chilli of Oaxacan culinary diversity, alongside chilhuacle, chilcostle, costeño and de agua.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between chile tabiche and chile costeño rojo?

Both are elongated, hot Oaxacan chillies but they come from different varieties and regions. Tabiche is grown in the Central Valleys of Oaxaca, tends to be slightly longer (7-10 cm) and is eaten both fresh and dried. Costeño rojo is grown on the Costa Chica, measures 6-8 cm and is eaten dried. Their aromatic profile is also distinct: tabiche is more herbal-vegetal, costeño more fruity.

What does chile tabiche taste like?

Fresh it brings a crisp vegetal-herbal flavour; dried it brings a fruity and slightly smoky flavour with notes of red berries and a sweet hint. Its heat is moderate-high (8,000-15,000 Scoville units), above jalapeño. When briefly toasted it develops aromas of cooked fruit and a hint of caramel that enriches regional moles and Oaxacan salsas.

What is chile tabiche used for?

It is used in regional Oaxacan moles (red, smaller-scale coloradito, mole de cazuela), raw salsas with tomato and lime, Oaxacan stuffed chillies with fresh cheese, and traditional stews such as beef steak in chile tabiche. Fresh, it is prepared in rajas with onion and added to tlayudas and memelas. It is an everyday chilli in the Zapotec kitchens of the Central Valleys.

Where does chile tabiche come from?

It is native and endemic to the Central Valleys of Oaxaca, traditionally grown in small family milpas by Zapotec communities in municipalities such as Tlacolula, Etla and Zaachila. SADER recognises it as a regional Oaxacan chilli and CONABIO includes it in the heritage of native Mexican chillies. It forms part of the repertoire of chillies that sustain the Oaxacan cuisine recognised by UNESCO.