Chiles en vinagre: what they are, how to make them and uses

What is it?

Chiles en vinagre are the simplest version of Mexican spicy pickles. Unlike escabeche, which usually includes oil and sautéed vegetables, chiles en vinagre are made with fresh chillies submerged directly in a brine of vinegar, water, salt and whole spices. It is a traditional pickle present in pantries throughout Mexico, from the north to the south-east, and is served as an acidic, spicy side for all kinds of meals: antojitos, dishes, tortas, tamales and seafood. The simplicity of the preparation, the low cost of the ingredients and the possibility of preserving the chillies for months without refrigeration explain why this recipe is so deeply rooted in Mexican domestic cooking, especially in rural areas and migrant communities.

Origin and history

The technique of preserving vegetables and meats in vinegar arrived in Mexico with the Spanish in the 16th century, itself an inheritance from the Arab peoples who inhabited the Iberian Peninsula for almost eight centuries. In viceregal cuisine vinegar was used to preserve meats on long journeys and to season salads, and little by little it was applied to the native chillies. By the 18th and 19th centuries, the conventual and domestic recipe books already included variants of chiles en vinagre. The 'Nuevo cocinero mexicano' of 1858 contains formulas for various pickles with vinegar, including the 'tornachile en vinagre', a historical reference of this family. With the industrial revolution of the 20th century, brands such as La Costeña and San Marcos took chiles en vinagre into mass production, making them one of the best-known tinned Mexican products internationally, present in any supermarket in the country.

Characteristic ingredients

The basic recipe uses jalapeño or serrano chillies cut into slices or left whole, with white or cider vinegar, water, sea salt, peppercorns, bay leaves and, optionally, garlic cloves and onion slices. Some versions add carrot, cauliflower or nopales. In northern cuisine they are usual with güero chilli; in the Bajío with sliced jalapeños; in Yucatán with xcatic and allspice. Another important distinction: chiles en vinagre are usually raw (only the brine is boiled and poured hot over the chillies), while chiles en escabeche are sautéed in oil before adding the vinegar. Their pungency ranges between 2,500 and 8,000 Scoville units when prepared with jalapeño. The most recognised commercial brands pack presentations in tin, jar or individual sachet for tortas.

Cultural significance

Chiles en vinagre are a universal side in Mexico: they are in family kitchens, taquerias, eateries and torta shops. They accompany classics such as the tortas ahogadas of Guadalajara, northern tamales, the antojitos of central Mexico and the seafood of the coasts. As part of Traditional Mexican Cuisine —Intangible Heritage of Humanity UNESCO 2010—, chiles en vinagre represent the criollo adaptation of a European technique to the most iconic ingredient of Mesoamerica: the chilli. Economically, La Costeña exports chiles en vinagre to the United States, Canada, Europe and Asia, taking the Mexican flavour to migrant communities. In homes, making homemade chiles en vinagre is a family rite passed from generation to generation, especially common in the Bajío and central Mexico, where almost all pantries have a jar to hand to season everyday food with an acidic, spicy touch.

Frequently asked questions