Chiles en vinagre: the essential pickle of Mexican cuisine

What is it?

Chiles en vinagre are the simplest version of Mexican spicy preserves. Unlike escabeche, which usually includes oil and sautéed vegetables, chiles en vinagre are made with fresh chillies submerged directly in a brine of vinegar, water, salt and whole spices. It is a traditional preserve found in pantries across Mexico, from the north to the south-east, and is served as a sour and spicy side for all kinds of meals: antojitos, stews, tortas, tamales and seafood. The simplicity of the preparation, the low cost of the ingredients and the ability to preserve the chillies for months without refrigeration explain why this recipe is so deeply rooted in Mexican home cooking, especially in rural areas and migrant communities.

Origin and history

The technique of preserving vegetables and meats in vinegar arrived in Mexico with the Spaniards in the 16th century, itself an inheritance from the Arab peoples who inhabited the Iberian Peninsula for nearly eight centuries. In viceregal cuisine, vinegar was used to preserve meats on long journeys and to season salads, and was gradually applied to native chillies. By the 18th and 19th centuries, convent and household recipe books already included variants of chiles en vinagre. The 'Nuevo cocinero mexicano' of 1858 contains formulas for various vinegar preserves, including the 'tornachile en vinagre', a historical reference for this family. With the industrial revolution of the 20th century, brands such as La Costeña and San Marcos brought chiles en vinagre into mass production, turning them into one of the best-known Mexican tinned products internationally, present in any supermarket in the country.

Characteristic ingredients

The basic recipe uses jalapeño or serrano chillies cut into slices or left whole, with white or apple cider vinegar, water, sea salt, peppercorns, bay leaves and, optionally, garlic cloves and onion slices. Some versions add carrot, cauliflower or nopales. In northern cooking they are made with chile güero; in the Bajío with sliced jalapeños; in Yucatán with xcatik and allspice. Another important distinction: chiles en vinagre are usually raw (only the brine is boiled and poured hot over the chillies), while chiles en escabeche are sautéed in oil before adding the vinegar. Their pungency ranges between 2,500 and 8,000 Scoville units when prepared with jalapeño. The best-known commercial brands package them in tin, jar or individual sachet for tortas.

Cultural significance

Chiles en vinagre are a universal side dish in Mexico: they appear in family kitchens, taquerias, fondas and torta stalls. They accompany classics such as tortas ahogadas from Guadalajara, northern tamales, central Mexican antojitos and coastal seafood. As part of Traditional Mexican Cuisine — UNESCO Intangible Heritage of Humanity 2010 — chiles en vinagre represent the criollo adaptation of a European technique to the most iconic ingredient of Mesoamerica: the chilli. Economically, La Costeña exports chiles en vinagre to the United States, Canada, Europe and Asia, taking Mexican flavour to migrant communities. At home, making chiles en vinagre is a family ritual passed down from generation to generation, especially common in the Bajío and central Mexico, where almost every pantry has a jar to hand for seasoning everyday meals with a sour and spicy touch.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between chiles en vinagre and chiles en escabeche?

Chiles en vinagre are a simpler preserve with chillies, vinegar, salt and spices, without oil. Chiles en escabeche include oil, herbs and vegetables sautéed before bottling, giving a more complex and unctuous profile. In Mexican commerce the terms are sometimes used interchangeably, but technically they differ.

Which chilli is best for preserving in vinegar?

The jalapeño is the most used for its fleshiness and moderate heat. The serrano is also used for stronger versions and the güero or cuaresmeño chilli for milder preserves. In the south-east the xcatik is used, and in the north the cera or caribe chilli, depending on the region and availability.

How long do homemade chiles en vinagre last?

If bottled in sterilised jars and the chillies are completely covered by the liquid, they last up to 12 months in a cool, dark place without refrigeration. Once opened, they must be refrigerated and consumed within 2 to 3 months. It is important to use clean utensils to avoid contamination with bacteria or mould.

How are chiles en vinagre served?

They are used as a side for tortas, tamales, antojitos, seafood and stews. In taquerias they are placed next to the green and red salsas, in tortas they are laid inside the bread along with onion, and with seafood such as ceviche or prawn cocktail they are served separately so each diner can adjust the heat to taste.