Chilhuacle rojo: what it is, taste and substitutes

What is it?

The chilhuacle rojo is one of the rarest, most valuable and most emblematic chillies of Mexico. It is grown exclusively in the Cañada de Cuicatlán, in the north of Oaxaca, which makes it practically endemic to that region. It has a lantern shape, measures between 5 and 8 cm, has wrinkled skin and a dark red or bright wine colour. It belongs to the species Capsicum annuum. Its name comes from the Nahuatl 'chilli-huacqui' (old chilli or dried chilli), the name given to a chilli especially prized by the pre-Hispanic peoples of present-day Oaxaca. Its heat is low (1,500-3,000 Scoville units). It provides a deep flavour of dark chocolate, coffee, dried fruit and a hint of tobacco. It is a key ingredient of Oaxacan mole negro, of mole rojo and of several traditional salsas. Its limited production makes it a chilli of high economic and cultural value.

Origin and history

The chilhuacle is one of the oldest chillies of the Tehuacán Valley and the Cañada de Cuicatlán, in the north of Oaxaca, an area where some of the most diverse chillies in Mexico have been grown since pre-Hispanic times. Its Nahuatl name 'chilli-huacqui' means 'old chilli'. Larousse Cocina and the Diccionario Enciclopédico de la Gastronomía Mexicana identify it as an irreplaceable ingredient of the most complex Oaxacan moles. There are three historic varieties: chilhuacle rojo, chilhuacle negro and chilhuacle amarillo, all grown in the same micro-region and used in different moles. CONABIO documents the chilhuacle as an example of an endemic chilli at risk of genetic erosion: at the end of the 20th century its production fell drastically and it is only maintained thanks to community efforts and the work of Oaxacan chefs. SADER and INIFAP drive projects to conserve the traditional seeds and protect its growing area. Traditional cooks such as Celia Florián and Abigail Mendoza are reference points in its ceremonial use.

Characteristic ingredients

The chilhuacle rojo is a Capsicum annuum endemic to the Cañada de Cuicatlán, a semi-arid micro-region in the north of Oaxaca with very specific climate and soil conditions. Its plant is demanding and produces few fruits per plant, which limits supply. The chillies are harvested red and sun-dried for several days until they reach a dark wine-red colour, wrinkled skin and a shape resembling a small lantern or pepper (5-8 cm). Its heat is low (1,500-3,000 SHU), but it offers a complex aromatic profile, with notes of dark chocolate, coffee, dried fruit, liquorice, tobacco and a hint of dried fruit. To use it, it is deveined and deseeded, toasted briefly on a comal and rehydrated in hot water. It is then blended with chilhuacle negro, chilhuacle amarillo, chocolate, nuts, plantain, spices and other ingredients to prepare Oaxacan mole negro, considered one of the most complex moles in the world. Its price is high and its availability limited.

Cultural significance

The chilhuacle rojo is one of the most valuable and symbolic chillies of Oaxacan cuisine, recognised as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO since 2010. It is an indispensable ingredient of Oaxacan mole negro, considered one of the most emblematic dishes of Mexico, and of regional mole rojo. Its cultivation is concentrated exclusively in municipalities of the Cañada de Cuicatlán such as San Juan Bautista Cuicatlán, Santa María Texcatitlán and neighbouring communities, where it sustains the economy of small indigenous Cuicatec producers. SADER and INIFAP, together with organisations such as Slow Food and native-maize conservation groups, drive conservation and fair-trade programmes for the chilhuacle, warning of the risk of genetic erosion. In contemporary cooking, Oaxacan chefs such as Alejandro Ruiz, Olga Cabrera and Celia Florián are reference points in its use, and have taken the chilhuacle to international fine dining. Its price in Oaxacan markets can be several times that of guajillo or ancho.

Frequently asked questions