Chilhuacle rojo: the essential Oaxacan chilli of mole negro

What is it?

Chilhuacle rojo is one of the rarest, most valuable and emblematic chillies of Mexico. It is grown exclusively in the Canada de Cuicatlan, in the north of Oaxaca, which makes it practically endemic to that region. It has a lantern shape, measures between 5 and 8 cm, with wrinkled skin and a glossy dark red or wine colour. It belongs to the species Capsicum annuum. Its name comes from the Nahuatl 'chilli-huacqui' (old chilli or dried chilli), the name given to a chilli especially prized by the pre-Hispanic peoples of present-day Oaxaca. Its heat is low (1,500-3,000 Scoville units). It brings a deep flavour of bitter chocolate, coffee, dried nuts and a hint of tobacco. It is a key ingredient of Oaxacan mole negro, of mole rojo and of several traditional salsas. Its limited production makes it a chilli of high economic and cultural value.

Origin and history

Chilhuacle is one of the oldest chillies of the Tehuacan Valley and the Canada de Cuicatlan, in northern Oaxaca, an area where some of the most diverse chillies in Mexico have been grown since pre-Hispanic times. Its Nahuatl name 'chilli-huacqui' means 'old chilli'. Larousse Cocina and the Encyclopaedic Dictionary of Mexican Gastronomy identify it as an irreplaceable ingredient of the most complex Oaxacan moles. There are three historical varieties: chilhuacle rojo, chilhuacle negro and chilhuacle amarillo, all grown in the same microregion and used in different moles. CONABIO documents chilhuacle as an example of an endemic chilli at risk of genetic erosion: by the end of the twentieth century its production had fallen drastically and it is only kept going through community and Oaxacan-chef efforts. SADER and INIFAP run projects to conserve the traditional seeds and to protect its growing area. Traditional cooks such as Celia Florian and Abigail Mendoza are reference figures for its ceremonial use.

Characteristic ingredients

Chilhuacle rojo is a Capsicum annuum endemic to the Canada de Cuicatlan, a semi-arid microregion of northern Oaxaca with very specific climate and soil conditions. The plant is demanding and produces few fruits per plant, which limits supply. The chillies are harvested red and sun-dried for several days until they take on a dark wine-red colour, wrinkled skin and a shape similar to a small lantern or pepper (5-8 cm). Its heat is low (1,500-3,000 SHU), but it brings a complex aromatic profile, with notes of bitter chocolate, coffee, dried nuts, liquorice, tobacco and a hint of dried fruit. To use it, devein and deseed it, toast briefly on a comal and rehydrate in hot water. Then blend with chilhuacle negro, chilhuacle amarillo, chocolate, dried nuts, plantain, spices and other ingredients to prepare Oaxacan mole negro, considered one of the most complex moles in the world. Its price is high and its availability limited.

Cultural significance

Chilhuacle rojo is one of the most valuable and symbolic chillies of Oaxacan cuisine, recognised as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO since 2010. It is an indispensable ingredient of Oaxacan mole negro, considered one of Mexico's most emblematic dishes, and of regional mole rojo. Its cultivation is concentrated exclusively in municipalities of the Canada de Cuicatlan such as San Juan Bautista Cuicatlan, Santa Maria Texcatitlan and surrounding communities, where it sustains the economy of small Cuicatec indigenous producers. SADER and INIFAP, together with organisations such as Slow Food and the Native Maize Conservancy, run conservation and fair-trade programmes for chilhuacle, sounding the alarm about the risk of genetic erosion. In contemporary cooking, Oaxacan chefs such as Alejandro Ruiz, Olga Cabrera and Celia Florian are reference figures for its use, and have taken chilhuacle to international fine dining. Its price in Oaxacan markets can be several times that of guajillo or ancho.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between chilhuacle rojo and chilhuacle negro?

They are two varieties of the same crop endemic to the Canada de Cuicatlan. Chilhuacle rojo is wine-red in colour, with a flavour of bitter chocolate, coffee and dried nuts; it is used in mole rojo and alongside negro and amarillo in mole negro. Chilhuacle negro is darker, almost black, with a deeper flavour of chocolate and tobacco; it is the soul of Oaxacan mole negro and the most valuable of the three.

What does chilhuacle rojo taste like?

It brings a deep, complex flavour with notes of bitter chocolate, toasted coffee, dried nuts, liquorice, tobacco and a hint of dried fruit. Its heat is low (1,500-3,000 Scoville units), but its aroma is very intense and persistent. When briefly toasted it develops toasted-cacao and caramel notes, perfect for complex Oaxacan moles.

Why is chilhuacle so expensive?

Chilhuacle is grown exclusively in the Canada de Cuicatlan, in a very specific microregion of northern Oaxaca, with limited production. Its plant is demanding, produces few fruits per season and its cultivation has fallen drastically since the twentieth century. These factors, together with high demand from Oaxacan chefs, make it one of the most expensive chillies in Mexico, several times more costly than guajillo or ancho.

Where does chilhuacle rojo come from?

It is native and practically endemic to the Canada de Cuicatlan, in northern Oaxaca. Its cultivation is concentrated in municipalities such as San Juan Bautista Cuicatlan and Santa Maria Texcatitlan. CONABIO recognises it as an endemic chilli at risk of genetic erosion, and SADER together with INIFAP run programmes to conserve its traditional seeds and its pre-Hispanic growing area.