Aguascalentense cuisine: birria, San Marcos chicken and highland stews

What is it?

Aguascalentense cuisine is the gastronomic tradition of the state of Aguascalientes, in the central-northern highlands of Mexico, part of the historic Bajío. Despite being one of the smallest states, it has a rich cuisine with its own identity: hidrocálida barbacoa birria, San Marcos chicken, wedding roast, hidrocálidas stuffed gorditas, condoches (small dough tortillas with cheese), prickly pears and fruit sweets, ranch cheese, ribs in chile pasilla and the famous Aguascalentense wines. The capital, Aguascalientes, annually celebrates the National San Marcos Fair, considered the most important fair in Mexico, where gastronomy is the star. It is consumed daily in markets such as Terán and Juárez, reaching its splendour during the fair (April-May) when millions of visitors try hidrocálidos flavours.

Origin and history

Aguascalentense cuisine inherits from the Caxcán, Tecuex, Zacateco and Guachichil peoples who inhabited the highlands before the arrival of the Spanish. The region was an obligatory passage of the Camino Real de Tierra Adentro (route between Mexico City and Santa Fe, UNESCO World Heritage since 2010) and for that reason was consolidated as an important commercial and agricultural point in the Colony. The founding of the Villa de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción de las Aguas Calientes in 1575 organised the region as a ranching and wine zone. The San Bartolomé hacienda and others introduced the vine early: Aguascalientes is historically a grape producer, especially in municipalities such as Calvillo (better known for guava) and Pabellón de Arteaga. The San Marcos festivities (25 April) began in 1604 and were consolidated as a commercial-agricultural fair in 1828. San Marcos chicken is an emblematic dish created in the early 20th century for the fair: chicken in chile guajillo sauce with almonds, dried fruits and sweet spices, a baroque legacy of the convent repertoire. Hidrocálida barbacoa birria combines Jalisco birria with the barbacoa technique, different from the Jalisco one because of its cooking in maguey leaf. The region is also famous for the Calvillo guava, with denomination of origin since 2010, the basis of traditional sweets.

Characteristic ingredients

Beef and goat are stars of the hidrocálida birria, which is marinated with chiles ancho and guajillo, cumin, oregano and garlic, wrapped in maguey leaves and steam-cooked in a pot for several hours (not in a pit). It is served with tortillas, onion, coriander and lime. San Marcos chicken carries chile guajillo and ancho, almonds, raisins, prunes, plantain, cinnamon, clove and a touch of chocolate; it is a baroque festive dish. The hidrocálidas stuffed gorditas are different from those of the Bajío and those of Zacatecas: they are dough gorditas baked or cooked on a comal, split open and filled with stews such as green mole, picadillo, red chilli roast or curd with chile poblano. The condoches are small maize tortillas with grated dry cheese, folded and cooked on a comal until browned. Aguascalentense ranch cheese, similar to that of Zacatecas, is made at small rural dairies. The Calvillo guava, a characteristic fruit, gives rise to sweets such as candied, atoles, guava rolls and regional liqueur. Aguascalentense wines (Bodegas Santo Tomás, Hacienda de Letras, Vinos La Bordalesa) produce Cabernet, Tempranillo and whites. Mezcal from the outskirts and maguey aguamiel complement the regional drinks offer.

Cultural significance

Aguascalentense cuisine is the identity of a small but culturally strong state. The National San Marcos Fair, one of the most important in Latin America, attracts more than 8 million visitors every year in April-May, with gastronomy as the main axis: enchiladas mineras, gorditas, birria, San Marcos chicken and all kinds of hidrocálidos antojos. Aguascalentense cuisine forms part of the UNESCO dossier of traditional Mexican cuisine inscribed in 2010. Calvillo, a Magical Town since 2012, holds the Guava Fair every year and exports traditional sweets. The Skulls Festival in November, in honour of the engraver José Guadalupe Posada (creator of La Catrina), includes Day of the Dead gastronomy such as pan de muerto, candied pumpkin and typical sweets. Aguascalientes is also an emerging wine centre, with small wineries that produce award-winning wines. The state government promotes gastronomic routes such as the Wine Route and the Mezcal Route. Restaurants such as Esquivel and Casa Aguascalientes preserve traditional recipes with contemporary technique.

Frequently asked questions

What is San Marcos chicken?

It is the emblematic dish of Aguascalientes, created in the early 20th century for the National San Marcos Fair. It is chicken cooked in a strained sauce of chile guajillo and ancho with almonds, raisins, prune, plantain, cinnamon, clove, cumin and a touch of bitter chocolate. It has a sweet-and-sour-spiced flavour, a baroque legacy of convent cuisine, and is served with white rice and tortillas at celebrations.

What is the difference between Aguascalientes and Jalisco birria?

Hidrocálida birria is steam-cooked in a pot with hydrated maguey leaves, not in a pit underground like the traditional Jalisco one. It usually uses goat or beef, and its adobo is similar to the Jalisco one but less spicy and with more cumin. It is served on a plate with consommé and tortillas, similar to the Jalisco one. Some hidrocálidas versions are called 'barbacoa birria'.

What does Aguascalentense cuisine taste like?

It has highland flavours: fruity chiles guajillo and ancho, cumin, oregano, salty ranch cheese, sweet fruits such as guava and plum, and baroque spices (cinnamon, clove) in festive dishes. It is less complex than Puebla or Oaxacan cuisines, more rural-festive, based on pork, beef and chicken, and with plentiful use of tortillas, lard and fresh cheese.

Where does Aguascalentense cuisine originate from?

It originates from the state of Aguascalientes, in the central-northern highlands of Mexico, part of the historic Bajío. Its roots are Caxcán, Tecuexes and Guachichil, with a strong Spanish colonial imprint since 1575 (founding of Aguascalientes) for being a stage of the Camino Real de Tierra Adentro. The San Marcos Fair since 1604 has been the driver of its distinctive culinary identity.