Aguascalientes cuisine: what it is and typical dishes

What is it?

Aguascalientes cuisine is the culinary tradition of the state of Aguascalientes, in the central-northern highlands of Mexico, part of the historic Bajío. Despite being one of the smallest states, it has a rich cuisine with its own identity: Aguascalientes-style barbacoa birria, pollo San Marcos, asado de boda, filled Aguascalientes gorditas, condoches (small dough tortillas with cheese), prickly pears and fruit sweets, ranch cheese, ribs in pasilla chilli and the famous Aguascalientes wines. The capital, Aguascalientes, holds the National San Marcos Fair each year, considered the most important fair in Mexico, where gastronomy takes centre stage. It is eaten daily in markets such as the Terán and the Juárez, reaching its peak during the fair (April-May) when millions of visitors sample the Aguascalientes flavours.

Origin and history

Aguascalientes cuisine inherits from the Caxcan, Tecuexe, Zacateco and Guachichil peoples who inhabited the highlands before the Spanish arrival. The region was an obligatory stop on the Camino Real de Tierra Adentro (the route between Mexico City and Santa Fe, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2010) and so consolidated as an important commercial and agricultural point in the colonial period. The founding of the Villa de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción de las Aguas Calientes in 1575 organised the region as a ranching and wine-making area. The Hacienda San Bartolomé and others introduced the vine early on: Aguascalientes is historically a grape producer, especially in municipalities such as Calvillo (better known for guava) and Pabellón de Arteaga. The festivities of San Marcos (25 April) began in 1604 and consolidated as a commercial-agricultural fair in 1828. Pollo San Marcos is the emblematic dish created at the start of the twentieth century for the fair: chicken in a guajillo chilli sauce with almonds, dried fruits and sweet spices, a Baroque heritage of the convent repertoire. Aguascalientes barbacoa birria combines Jalisco birria with barbacoa technique, differing from the Jalisco version in its cooking in maguey leaves. The region is also famous for the Calvillo guava, with a designation of origin since 2010, the base of traditional sweets.

Characteristic ingredients

Beef and goat are the stars of Aguascalientes birria, which is marinated with ancho and guajillo chillies, cumin, oregano and garlic, wrapped in maguey leaves and steamed in a pot for several hours (not in a pit). It is served with tortillas, onion, coriander and lime. Pollo San Marcos contains guajillo and ancho chilli, almonds, raisins, prune, plantain, cinnamon, clove and a touch of chocolate; it is a festive Baroque dish. Filled Aguascalientes gorditas differ from those of the Bajío and those of Zacatecas: they are dough gorditas baked or cooked on a comal, opened and filled with stews such as green mole, picadillo, red-chilli asado or curd with poblano chilli. Condoches are small maize tortillas with grated dry cheese, folded and cooked on a comal until golden. Aguascalientes ranch cheese, similar to that of Zacatecas, is made in small rural cheese dairies. The Calvillo guava, the characteristic fruit, gives rise to sweets such as candied guava, atoles, guava rolls and a regional liqueur. Aguascalientes wines (Bodegas Santo Tomás, Hacienda de Letras, Vinos La Bordalesa) produce Cabernet, Tempranillo and whites. The mezcal of the outskirts and maguey aguamiel complement the regional drinks on offer.

Cultural significance

Aguascalientes cuisine is an identity of a small but culturally strong state. The National San Marcos Fair, one of the most important in Latin America, attracts more than 8 million visitors each year in April-May, with gastronomy as the main axis: enchiladas mineras, gorditas, birria, pollo San Marcos and all kinds of Aguascalientes treats. Aguascalientes cuisine is part of the UNESCO dossier of traditional Mexican cuisine inscribed in 2010. Calvillo, a Pueblo Mágico since 2012, holds the Guava Fair every year and exports traditional sweets. The Festival of the Skulls in November, in honour of the engraver José Guadalupe Posada (creator of La Catrina), includes Day of the Dead gastronomy such as pan de muerto, candied squash and typical sweets. Aguascalientes is also an emerging wine-making centre, with small wineries that produce award-winning wines. The state government promotes culinary routes such as the Wine Route and the Mezcal Route. Restaurants such as Esquivel and Casa Aguascalientes preserve traditional recipes with contemporary technique.

Frequently asked questions

What is pollo San Marcos?

It is the emblematic dish of Aguascalientes, created at the start of the twentieth century for the National San Marcos Fair. It is chicken cooked in a strained sauce of guajillo and ancho chilli with almonds, raisins, prune, plantain, cinnamon, clove, cumin and a touch of dark chocolate. It has a sweet-and-sour, spiced flavour, a Baroque heritage of convent cooking, and is served with white rice and tortillas at celebrations.

What is the difference between Aguascalientes and Jalisco birria?

Aguascalientes birria is steamed in a pot with hydrated maguey leaves, not in a pit underground like the traditional Jalisco version. It usually uses goat or beef, and its marinade is similar to the Jalisco one but less spicy and with more cumin. It is served on a plate with consommé and tortillas, similar to the Jalisco version. Some Aguascalientes versions are called 'barbacoa birria'.

What does Aguascalientes cuisine taste like?

It has highland flavours: fruity guajillo and ancho chillies, cumin, oregano, salty ranch cheese, sweet fruits such as guava and plum, and Baroque spices (cinnamon, clove) in festive dishes. It is less complex than Puebla or Oaxaca cuisine, more rural-festive, based on pork, beef and chicken, with abundant use of tortillas, lard and fresh cheese.

Where does Aguascalientes cuisine come from?

It originates in the state of Aguascalientes, in the central-northern highlands of Mexico, part of the historic Bajío. Its roots are Caxcan, Tecuexe and Guachichil, with a strong Spanish colonial imprint from 1575 (the founding of Aguascalientes) as a stop on the Camino Real de Tierra Adentro. The San Marcos Fair since 1604 has been a driver of its distinctive culinary identity.