Jalisco cuisine: birria, tortas ahogadas and the Guadalajaran soul

What is it?

Jalisco cuisine is the gastronomic tradition of the state of Jalisco, in western Mexico, and one of the most internationally recognised as representative of Mexican-ness. It encompasses dishes such as birria, tortas ahogadas, red pozole, carnes en su jugo, steamed tacos and the Tapatian lonche. It is the cradle of tequila, a drink with denomination of origin, and of charrería, the national sport declared Intangible Heritage of Humanity. It is consumed daily in family kitchens, fondas and tianguis of Guadalajara, Tlaquepaque and Tonalá, and forms part of festivities such as the October fairs, the Marian romerías and the celebrations of weddings and christenings where birria is an obligatory guest.

Origin and history

Jalisco cuisine inherits the tradition of the Coca, Tecuexes and Huichol peoples, growers of maize, agave and bean since the pre-Hispanic era. The arrival of the Spanish to New Galicia in 1530-1531 introduced pork, beef and goat, fundamental for the later development of birria. According to Larousse Cocina, birria was born in the region of Cocula during the Colony as a response to the overpopulation of goats brought by the conquistadors: marinated in chillies and cooked in steam in earth ovens, they made them edible and exquisite. Tequila, a distillate of blue agave (Agave tequilana Weber), is documented from the 16th century around the town of the same name, and obtained denomination of origin in 1974. Tortas ahogadas arose in Guadalajara at the beginning of the 20th century, attributed to Don Ignacio 'El Ahogado' Saldaña, as México Desconocido relates. The agave landscape and old industrial facilities were declared World Heritage by UNESCO in 2006.

Characteristic ingredients

The most-used chillies in Jalisco are guajillo (the base of birria and red pozole), dried chile de árbol (the soul of the 'drowning' of the tortas), chipotle and chile ancho. Goat and sheep are emblematic meats of traditional birria, although today the beef version, popularised in Tijuana, prevails and has conquered the world. The torta ahogada is made with salty birote, a unique crunchy bread of Guadalajara, filled with carnitas and 'drowned' in tomato and chile de árbol sauce. Jalisco red pozole carries hulled cacahuazintle maize, head and lean pork, and is accompanied by radish, lettuce, onion, oregano and lime. Carnes en su jugo combine minced beef, bacon, pot beans and beef broth. The jericalla, a Guadalajaran dessert that blends flan and crème brûlée, is served with a burnt surface. Tequila accompanies as aperitif or digestif, and tejuino (fermented maize drink) refreshes during summer.

Cultural significance

Jalisco cuisine is probably the most iconic of Mexico at international level, alongside Puebla cuisine. It forms part of the traditional Mexican cuisine inscribed by UNESCO in 2010 as Intangible Cultural Heritage. Tequila, with denomination of origin since 1974, is the main Mexican exported spirit and economic engine of the Valles region. Beef birria has had a global boom since the 2010 decade, with quesabirrias and consommé for golden tacos turned into a viral phenomenon. The October fairs in Guadalajara, the international mariachi meetings (another UNESCO World Heritage since 2011) and the romerías to the Basilica of Zapopan are always accompanied by Guadalajaran food. Historic restaurants such as La Chata, founded in 1942, and markets such as San Juan de Dios sustain the tradition. Tlaquepaque and Tonalá, today part of the metropolitan area, preserve centuries-old fondas and the production of glazed clay pans where birria is cooked.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between Jalisco birria and Tijuana birria?

Traditional Jalisco birria is made with goat or sheep, is steam-cooked wrapped in maguey leaves and served on a plate with its consommé and tortillas separately. Tijuana-style birria uses beef and is served in crispy tacos (quesabirria) dipped in the consommé for dunking. Both share the guajillo and ancho chilli adobo.

What is a torta ahogada?

It is the emblematic torta of Guadalajara: a salty birote filled with pork carnitas, totally or partially submerged in tomato, onion and plenty of chile de árbol sauce. It is served with pickled red onion on top. The 'medio ahogada' version has only the half bathed for those who tolerate less heat.

What does Jalisco cuisine taste like?

It has intense, spicy and deep flavours, dominated by dried chillies such as guajillo and chile de árbol. Birria is spiced and aromatic from cumin, clove and bay; carnes en su jugo are herbal from coriander and beans; red pozole combines soft cacahuazintle maize with a deep broth. Tequila accompanies with herbal notes of agave.

Where does Jalisco cuisine originate from?

It originates from the state of Jalisco, in western Mexico, with roots in the Coca, Tecuexes and Huichol peoples. Its main development occurred during the Colony in New Galicia, with epicentre in Guadalajara founded in 1542. Birria was born in the Cocula region and tequila in the Valles of blue agave, both with a clear regional identity.