Michoacán cuisine: heritage of humanity and Purépecha tradition

What is it?

Michoacán cuisine is the gastronomic tradition of the state of Michoacán, in western Mexico, and was presented as the paradigmatic case before UNESCO when traditional Mexican cuisine was inscribed on the List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2010. It is a cuisine deeply linked to the Purépecha people and the shores of Lake Pátzcuaro, where corundas (triangular tamales), uchepos (sweet tender-elote tamales), morisqueta (rice cooked with beans), white fish and dried charales are prepared. It is also the cradle of Quiroga-style carnitas, the most famous carnitas tacos of Mexico. It is consumed all year round, but takes on importance during the Night of the Dead from 1 to 2 November, especially in Janitzio and Tzintzuntzan, with offerings, pan de muerto and ritual stews.

Origin and history

Michoacán cuisine inherits the millennia-old tradition of the P'urhépecha or Tarascan people, a Mesoamerican civilisation that dominated the west without being subjugated by the Aztecs. They were expert fishermen of Lake Pátzcuaro and producers of maize, bean, chilli and squash for more than 2,500 years. The Relación de Michoacán, written around 1539-1541 by Fray Jerónimo de Alcalá, describes culinary techniques and rituals around maize that are still preserved today. The arrival of the Spanish pig gave rise to carnitas, especially in Quiroga (formerly Pueblo de Cocupao), where they have been documented since the 19th century as cooking whole pig in its own fat in copper cauldrons. Vasco de Quiroga, first bishop of Michoacán between 1538 and 1565, organised hospital-towns with craft specialisations: Quiroga for carnitas, Capula for pottery, Paracho for guitars, Tzintzuntzan for textiles. This organisation still influences regional cuisine. UNESCO declared traditional Mexican cuisine Intangible Heritage in 2010 using Michoacán explicitly as the exemplary case, thanks to the dossier prepared by the Conservatorio de la Cultura Gastronómica Mexicana chaired by Gloria López Morales.

Characteristic ingredients

Maize is the absolute centre of Michoacán cuisine. Corundas are triangular tamales wrapped in reed or milpa leaf, made only with dough, lard and salt, served with salsa and cream. Uchepos are sweet tamales of ground tender elote, not nixtamalised, characteristic of the season of tender cobs. Morisqueta accompanies freshly cooked white rice with beans and tomato sauce. Churipo is a beef broth with xoconostle and cabbage, a Purépecha ritual dish. The white fish of Pátzcuaro (an endemic species of the lake, now in danger of extinction) is cooked battered or fried; charales are dried and fried as a snack. Quiroga carnitas are pork cooked in its fat in copper cauldrons from Santa Clara del Cobre with salt, orange, milk and sometimes cola soft drink. The perón chilli grows only in Uruapan and Chiapas and is the base of salsas. Hass avocado is mass-produced in Uruapan, with denomination of origin. Charanda is the Michoacán sugar-cane distillate with denomination of origin since 2003.

Cultural significance

Michoacán cuisine is the emblematic case of Mexican intangible gastronomic heritage before UNESCO. The Night of the Dead on Janitzio island, on Lake Pátzcuaro, attracts thousands of visitors every November who witness the candles, music and offerings with pan de muerto and typical stews. The traditional women cooks of Michoacán, organised in state meetings since 2003, are internationally recognised guardians: Benedicta Alejo Vargas and Juana Bravo have been invited to global forums. The gastronomic fairs in towns such as Tzintzuntzan, Pátzcuaro, Quiroga and Uruapan sustain the trade of traditional food. Michoacán also has the Health Route, organised by the state government around Morelia and Pátzcuaro. Quiroga carnitas are a national reference: every weekend, thousands of visitors come to the town to eat at the dozens of butcher-grills that prepare them, perpetuating a colonial technique almost unchanged for more than a century.

Frequently asked questions

What is a corunda?

It is a triangular or pentagonal tamale typical of Michoacán, wrapped in a long leaf of reed or maize milpa. It only carries maize dough, lard and salt, with no filling. It is served hot bathed with tomato or green salsa, cream, fresh cheese and pieces of stewed pork. Its pyramidal shape is achieved by folding the leaf in successive triangles when wrapping it.

What is the difference between uchepo and elote tamale?

The Michoacán uchepo is a sweet tamale of very tender ground elote, not nixtamalised, mixed with milk, sugar, butter and salt, wrapped in corn husk and steamed. Other elote tamales may carry nixtamalised maize dough or be savoury with cheese and chilli. The uchepo is creamier, sweeter and more delicate because of its immature elote.

What does Michoacán cuisine taste like?

It has rustic flavours, deeply linked to the land, the lake and maize. The tamales are earthy, the carnitas fatty and caramelised, broths such as churipo have acidic notes from xoconostle. The perón chilli provides a unique fruity heat. Avocado, guava and red fruits such as blackberry give freshness. It is peasant cooking, without major spicing.

Where does Michoacán cuisine originate from?

It originates from the state of Michoacán, in western Mexico, with roots in the Purépecha or Tarascan people, whose civilisation flourished around Lake Pátzcuaro from the 12th century. During the Colony it was organised by Vasco de Quiroga into hospital-towns with culinary and craft specialisations that still subsist, such as the carnitas of Quiroga.