Nuevo León cuisine: cabrito al pastor, machacado and northern table

What is it?

Nuevo León cuisine is the gastronomic tradition of the state of Nuevo León, in northeastern Mexico, on the Texas border, the country's industrial capital. It is a substantial, ranching cuisine, of flour tortillas and grilled meats, with cabrito al pastor as the undisputed king. Its emblematic dishes are roast cabrito al pastor, machacado with egg, frijoles a la charra, flour gorditas, wedding roast, Nuevo León tamales (smaller and with finer dough), Monterrey flautas, empalmes (folded tortillas with bean and chilli), northern huevos rancheros and broths such as menudo and caldillo. It is consumed daily in homes and cabrito restaurants of Monterrey, Linares and Sabinas Hidalgo, reaching its splendour at Sunday family dinners and celebrations such as weddings and XV años, where cabrito is essential.

Origin and history

Nuevo León cuisine inherits from Chichimec groups (Alazapas, Gualeguas, Borrados) who inhabited the semi-desert regions of the northeast, mostly nomadic and hunter-gatherers. Spanish colonisation began in 1577 when Alberto del Canto founded the Villa de Santa Lucía (today Monterrey), refounded as Monterrey by Diego de Montemayor in 1596 and as capital of the New Kingdom of León. The migration of Sephardic-converso families from Portugal and Spain, alongside Tlaxcalan colonisation of 1591, made up the initial population base. Cabrito arrived with the goat flocks that adapted to the semi-desert and became staple food from the 17th century, according to Larousse Cocina and México Desconocido. Nuevoleonese wedding roast (not to be confused with the Zacatecan one) is a colonial festive dish of pork in red chilli with almonds and chocolate, a mestizo legacy. The industrialisation of Monterrey since the late 19th century, with the Cervecería Cuauhtémoc (1890) and the HYLSA steelworks, attracted internal migration and consolidated a working class with a tradition of flour tortilla, frijoles charros and weekend barbacoa. The proximity to Texas and border migration have given rise to Tex-Mex fusions such as nachos, large flour quesadillas and burritos.

Characteristic ingredients

Cabrito al pastor is the emblematic dish: 28-35 day milk-fed goat slaughtered and opened on crossed rods (espigado), roasted over mesquite or walnut firewood for between 1 and 3 hours. The skin remains golden and crunchy and the meat tender as butter. It is served with flour tortillas, frijoles a la charra and guacamole. Preferred parts are 'machito' (innards with tripe), 'riñonada' (kidneys) and 'pulpa' (leg). Machacado is dried beef ground until shredded and then sautéed with tomato, onion, chile serrano and scrambled egg. Frijoles a la charra are pinto beans stewed with bacon, chorizo, tomato, onion, garlic, chile serrano and coriander. Northern tamales carry less dough and more filling (pork in red chilli, chicken, sweet ones of strawberry or pineapple) and are smaller than those of the centre. Flour gorditas and flour tortillas replace maize as a base. Wedding roast carries pork, chile ancho, almonds, prune, cinnamon and chocolate. Carta Blanca, Bohemia and Tecate beers are emblematic; mezcal from the villages and local aguardientes are traditional.

Cultural significance

Nuevo León cuisine is one of the most deeply rooted in northern Mexico and a driver of Monterrey tourism. Cabrito al pastor is an emblematic dish of Monterrey: restaurants such as El Rey del Cabrito, Las Monjitas, El Granero and Cabrito Doña Carmen are obligatory destinations since the 1940s. Nuevo León cuisine forms part of the UNESCO dossier of traditional Mexican cuisine inscribed in 2010. Weekend family gatherings centre on grilled meat with frijoles charros, flour tortillas and guacamole. The Cuauhtémoc Moctezuma brewery (1890) and the glass industry created in Monterrey the strongest brewing economy of the country, complementing the cuisine with a tradition of premium beers. The Glass Museum and the Steel Museum exhibit the industrial legacy. The Cabrito Fair in Linares and the great industries fair in Monterrey are gastronomic showcases. Monterrey cuisine has also exported the 'royal hunger' to Texas, with massive migration that took cabrito, flour tortillas and machacado to San Antonio, Houston and Dallas. Contemporary restaurants such as Pangea by Guillermo González Beristáin have taken Nuevo León cuisine to the international fine dining level.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between cabrito al pastor and oven-baked cabrito?

Cabrito al pastor is roasted over open wood fire on a crossed rod (espigado) that rotates or is turned, with the skin towards the fire, for 2-3 hours; it ends up with golden, crunchy skin. Oven-baked cabrito is cooked inside a closed oven on a tray, generally with white wine, onion and spices; it ends up juicier and softer but without the characteristic toasted crust. The al pastor is the traditional northern one.

What is Nuevo León machacado?

It is salted and sun-dried or air-dried beef, then pounded or ground with stones until finely shredded. It is rehydrated by sautéing with tomato, onion, garlic and chile serrano, and mixed with scrambled egg to make the traditional northern breakfast. It is eaten with flour tortillas, refried beans and hot sauce; it is an everyday dish of every Nuevo León home.

What does Nuevo León cuisine taste like?

It has robust, smoky and carnivorous flavours: cabrito grilled on mesquite with its caramelised fat, frijoles charros with bacon and chorizo notes, flour tortillas with lard, and spicy chile serrano. Machacado is salty and intense, wedding roast carries chocolate and sweet spices. It is an abundant, substantial cuisine, ideal for extreme semi-desert climates.

Where does Nuevo León cuisine originate from?

It originates from the state of Nuevo León, in northeastern Mexico. It combines scarce indigenous heritage (Chichimec Alazapas, Borrados, Gualeguas, mostly nomadic) with a strong imprint of the Spanish colonisation of 1577-1596 (Monterrey), the Tlaxcalan migration of 1591 and the subsequent industrialisation of Monterrey from the late 19th century that consolidated the traditions of cabrito, machacado and frijoles charros.