Potosi cuisine: enchiladas potosinas, asado de boda and Huastec zacahuil

What is it?

Potosi cuisine is the gastronomic tradition of the state of San Luis Potosi, in north-central Mexico, one of the most diverse in the country as it brings together four culturally distinct regions: the Huasteca (east), the Middle Zone, the Central Zone and the Altiplano (west). Its emblematic dishes are enchiladas potosinas (with masa coloured with chile ancho), Huastec zacahuil (a giant tamale up to a metre long), asado de boda potosino, pemoles (lard biscuits), fiambre potosino, oven-baked gorditas, the prickly-pear cheese of the altiplano, bonete (an indigenous pudding), palomas (tamales without masa) and Huastec sugar-cane aguardiente. It is eaten daily in markets such as Hidalgo and La Merced in the capital, and in Huastec markets such as those of Ciudad Valles and Tamazunchale. The Huastec people celebrate Xantolo (Huastec Day of the Dead), one of the most intense gastronomic festivals in Mexico.

Origin and history

Potosi cuisine has roots among the Huastec (Tenek) peoples of the east, the Pames of the centre, the Guachichil of the altiplano and the scattered Nahua and Otomi groups. The Huasteca potosina is one of the regions with the most living pre-Hispanic cuisine in the country. The founding of San Luis Potosi in 1592 by Captain Miguel Caldera, after pacifying the Guachichil Chichimecas, gave rise to the colonial city, whose historic centre was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2010 (as part of the Camino Real de Tierra Adentro). The silver mines of Cerro de San Pedro motivated its foundation. Enchiladas potosinas are a modern 20th-century creation: around 1948, dona Cristina Vazquez, originally from Soledad de Graciano Sanchez, began selling at the Hidalgo market enchiladas made with masa dyed with chile ancho, filled with cheese and served with beans, according to Larousse Cocina and family documentation. The coloured masa allows them to be prepared in advance. Zacahuil is a pre-Hispanic Huastec dish that has survived without major modification for more than 500 years: a giant tamale wrapped in banana leaf with coarsely ground maize masa, chile chino and guajillo, and a whole pig or chicken. Mexico Desconocido documents its communal preparation during Xantolo.

Characteristic ingredients

Enchiladas potosinas are unique in the country: the maize masa is mixed with a puree of cooked chile ancho, giving it an intense orange-red colour. They are made as small empanadas or flat enchiladas, filled with ranchero or white cheese, fried in oil or lard, and served with refried beans, avocado, lettuce, cream and cheese. Zacahuil uses stone-ground maize masa (not nixtamalised), mixed with chile chino, chile cascabel, garlic, cumin, salt and lard, wrapping a whole pig or chicken in banana leaf and then in maguey or palm leaves. It is cooked in a wood-fired oven for 8 to 12 hours. It can feed 30 to 50 people. Asado de boda potosino is similar to the Zacatecan version: pork in a sauce of chile guajillo, orange, vinegar and sweet spices. Pemoles are biscuits made with lard, flour, piloncillo, aniseed and cinnamon, of convent heritage. The prickly-pear cheese of the altiplano (Charcas, Catorce) is a solid sweet made with concentrated prickly-pear juice, without dairy. Palomas are 'tamales without masa': meat wrapped in maize leaf and steamed. The Huastec huapangos use thick atole with fresh cheese. Xoconostle (sour prickly pear) and yucca flower complement Huastec ingredients.

Cultural significance

Potosi cuisine stands out for its regional diversity and its Pueblos Magicos: Real de Catorce (altiplano), Xilitla (Huasteca) and Aquismon (Huasteca) are important destinations. The Huasteca potosina celebrates Xantolo from 31 October to 2 November, a syncretic funerary festival where zacahuiles, tamales, atoles and bocoles are prepared to honour the deceased; it is recognised as the intangible cultural heritage of the state. It is part of the UNESCO inscription of traditional Mexican cuisine made in 2010. San Luis Potosi (city) has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2010 as part of the Camino Real de Tierra Adentro. The Festival Internacional San Luis Potosi, held annually, includes gastronomy as a cultural axis. The indigenous Tenek festivals in Tamazunchale, Xilitla and Aquismon keep pre-Hispanic culinary traditions alive with huehues dances, ritual food and offerings. The state government promotes the Huasteca Route and the Mission Route as gastronomic attractions. Pemoles, enchiladas potosinas and prickly-pear cheese are identity products with growing exports.

Frequently asked questions

What makes enchiladas potosinas special?

What is distinctive is that the maize masa is mixed with a puree of cooked chile ancho before being shaped, giving the tortilla an intense orange-red colour. They are made small (5 to 7 cm), filled with ranchero cheese, folded like empanadas and fried. They are served with refried beans, avocado, lettuce and cream. They are a creation of dona Cristina Vazquez in the Hidalgo market of San Luis around 1948.

What is zacahuil and where is it from?

It is a giant pre-Hispanic tamale from the Huasteca (shared by San Luis Potosi, Veracruz, Hidalgo and Tamaulipas). It can be up to a metre long, uses coarsely ground maize masa (not nixtamalised) with chile chino and guajillo, wrapping a whole pig or chicken in banana leaf. It is cooked in a wood-fired oven for 8 to 12 hours and feeds 30 to 50 people. It is a ritual dish of Xantolo, the Huastec Day of the Dead.

What does Potosi cuisine taste like?

It varies a lot by region. Enchiladas potosinas taste of fruity chile ancho and cheese. Zacahuil is spicy, smoky and deep from the long wood-fired cooking. Asado de boda is sweet-sour and spiced. Pemoles are sweet with lard and aniseed. Huastec cuisine is tropical and spiced; the altiplano is more austere and arid with prickly pears and goat's milk cheese.

Where does Potosi cuisine come from?

It originates from the state of San Luis Potosi, in north-central Mexico. It combines four cultural regions: the Tenek Huasteca (east, pre-Hispanic), the Middle Zone of the Pames, the Spanish colonial capital (founded in 1592) and the Altiplano of Real de Catorce (mining). Enchiladas potosinas are a 20th-century capital creation; zacahuil is pre-Hispanic Huastec with more than 500 years of history.