Huitlacoche: what it is, history and why it is called "Mexican truffle"
What is it?
Huitlacoche (also spelt cuitlacoche) is an edible fungus —Ustilago maydis— that infects maize cobs and forms large bluish-grey or black galls. In Mexican cooking it is considered a pre-Hispanic delicacy and is known as the "Mexican truffle" or "Aztec caviar" because of its intense, sweet, wild-mushroom flavour. It is harvested between July and September, during the rainy season, and is an iconic ingredient in quesadillas, soups, tamales and crêpes in haute Mexican cuisine.
Origin and history
Consumption of huitlacoche has been documented since pre-Hispanic times: the sixteenth-century Florentine Codex describes it as a food valued by the Aztecs. Etymologically, its name comes from the Nahuatl and is commonly translated as "sleeping excrescence" or "raven of the maize". Unlike much of the world, where it is considered a pest (corn smut) and eradicated from the crop, in Mexico it has always been food. The United States government even tried to import and cultivate it from the 1990s onwards once it recognised its gastronomic value, and today it is sold tinned for export.
Characteristic ingredients
Huitlacoche forms when the fungus Ustilago maydis infects young maize kernels and transforms them into swollen galls full of spores. It is harvested before the galls mature, while they are still soft and moist, ideally two to three weeks after infection. Its flavour combines notes of mushroom, sweetcorn, damp earth and wood. It is typically cooked sautéed with onion, garlic, chile serrano or poblano, and epazote, which is its classic aromatic partner. In quesadillas it is combined with Oaxaca cheese or queso fresco.
Cultural significance
Huitlacoche represents the Mesoamerican worldview of making use of everything the milpa offers, even what other cultures would consider a disease. It is a source of high-quality protein, contains lysine (an essential amino acid scarce in cereals), beta-glucans and bioactive compounds studied for their antioxidant and antitumour properties, according to research published in journals such as Nutrients and the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry. Today it has moved from the popular market to international haute cuisine thanks to chefs such as Enrique Olvera and Patricia Quintana, who have taken it to the tasting menu.
Related recipes
Now that you know what it is, try cooking it at home with our step-by-step recipes:
Ingredients to cook it
Find where to buy authentic ingredients in Mexican shops in the US:
Frequently asked questions
- Is huitlacoche safe to eat?
- Yes, completely. Although it is a parasitic fungus of maize, it is not toxic to people or to the crop at consumption levels. It has been eaten in Mexico for centuries and the US FDA also permits it.
- What does huitlacoche taste like?
- It has a deep, earthy flavour, similar to a mix of portobello mushroom, tender sweetcorn and black truffle. That is why it is called the Mexican truffle in gastronomic circles.
- Where can I buy huitlacoche?
- Fresh in Mexican markets during the rainy season (July to September). Tinned or frozen, it can be found in Latin shops and in some specialist supermarkets in Spain and the United Kingdom all year round.
- Why is it called sleeping excrescence?
- It is the literal translation from Nahuatl: cuitlatl (excrement or excrescence) and cochi (to sleep). It reflects how the fungus remains dormant in the soil until it infects the maize.

