Mezcal: what it is, history and the difference with tequila

What is it?

Mezcal is a Mexican distilled spirit made from cooked agave hearts, fermented and distilled in traditional copper or clay stills. It originates in Mesoamerica and today holds a Protected Denomination of Origin (DOM) covering nine Mexican states: Oaxaca (the most representative), Guerrero, Durango, San Luis Potosí, Zacatecas, Michoacán, Tamaulipas, Puebla and Guanajuato. Unlike tequila, which only uses blue agave, mezcal can be made from more than 50 agave species, giving it a much wider aromatic universe. It is drunk neat at room temperature in small "caballitos" or jícaras, accompanied by worm salt and orange slices. In the last decade it has conquered international cocktail bars and the premium consumption markets of the United States, Europe and Asia.

Origin and history

Mezcal has a documented pre-Hispanic origin: Mesoamerican cultures consumed pulque (fermented agave juice) from at least 200 BC, although distillation is the subject of academic debate. The traditional theory held that distillation arrived with the Spanish in the sixteenth century, who would have taught Arab still techniques. However, archaeological finds at sites such as Xochitécatl-Cacaxtla (Tlaxcala) and in the Colima sierra suggest that the Mesoamericans were already distilling agave in conical ceramic ovens before the Conquest. The word mezcal comes from the Nahuatl mexcalli, meaning "oven-baked maguey". During the viceregal period, mezcal competed with peninsular spirits and was banned on several occasions by the Crown. After Independence it consolidated as a national drink. In 1994 it obtained its Denomination of Origin, in 2003 the NOM-070 was published, and since 2010 it has been experiencing a commercial boom that has seen its production double every five years.

Characteristic ingredients

Agave is the heart of mezcal: the plant takes between 7 and 25 years to mature depending on the species. The most-used varieties are espadín (Agave angustifolia, the most common, 80% of Oaxacan mezcal), tobalá (Agave potatorum, wild, with a floral flavour), tepeztate (Agave marmorata, 25 years to maturity), madrecuixe, arroqueño, cuishe and cirial. The piña (central heart) is cooked for 3 to 5 days in a conical earth oven lined with hot stones and firewood, which provides the characteristic smoky flavour. After cooking, it is ground in a stone mill (tahona) pulled by a horse or mule, or with wooden mallets (in the most artisanal versions). The bagasse is fermented for 5 to 30 days in wooden vats with spring water and wild yeasts, and finally distilled twice in copper or clay stills. The official classifications are: Mezcal (industrial), Artisanal Mezcal and Ancestral Mezcal (the most traditional, in clay stills).

Cultural significance

Mezcal is one of Mexico's great cultural ambassadors and holds a Denomination of Origin granted by the Mexican Institute of Industrial Property in 1994, extended in 2018 to nine states. NOM-070-SCFI-2016 regulates its production and classifies the three categories: Mezcal, Artisanal and Ancestral. Oaxaca concentrates almost 90% of national production and there are entire communities (Santiago Matatlán, San Dionisio Ocotepec, San Luis del Río) whose economy depends almost entirely on mezcal. Mezcal culture was inscribed by UNESCO as part of traditional Mexican cuisine in 2010. The recent commercial boom has been spectacular: production went from 980,000 litres in 2011 to more than 14 million in 2023, and exports to the United States are growing at annual rates of 30%. Mezcal has entered the menus of the world's best bars, with cocktails such as the Mezcal Negroni and the Mezcal Paloma, and regularly features in The World's 50 Best Bars.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between mezcal and tequila?

Tequila is a specific variety of mezcal, regulated by a separate DOM that only admits Agave tequilana blue variety, grown in Jalisco and adjoining municipalities. Mezcal can be made from more than 50 agave species, in nine states, and uses an earth oven (smoky). Tequila is cooked in an autoclave, without smoke.

Why do some mezcals contain a worm?

The worm (red chinicuil or white maguey worm) is traditionally added to some "con gusano" mezcals. Its origin is controversial: for some producers it adds flavour; for many historians it is a 1950s commercial invention with marketing aims. High-quality artisanal mezcal does not usually contain it.

How is mezcal correctly drunk?

Neat, at room temperature, in small "caballitos", jícaras or wide cups. It is drunk in sips, not in one shot, in order to perceive the smoky and herbal notes. It is accompanied with worm salt (a mix of salt, chilli and ground worm) and orange slices. Never with lime and salt like tequila.

Does mezcal have a Denomination of Origin?

Yes. It obtained a Protected Denomination of Origin in 1994 and today it covers nine states: Oaxaca, Guerrero, Durango, San Luis Potosí, Zacatecas, Michoacán, Tamaulipas, Puebla and Guanajuato. NOM-070-SCFI-2016 regulates its production and requires at least 100% agave from the DOM states.