Mezcal: what it is, history and how it differs from tequila

What is it?

Mezcal is a Mexican spirit made from the cooked heart of the agave, fermented and distilled in traditional copper or clay stills. It originates in Mesoamerica and today holds a Protected Denomination of Origin (DOM) covering nine Mexican states: Oaxaca (the most representative), Guerrero, Durango, San Luis Potosi, Zacatecas, Michoacan, Tamaulipas, Puebla and Guanajuato. Unlike tequila, which uses only blue agave, mezcal can be made from more than 50 agave species, which gives it a far wider aromatic universe. It is drunk neat at room temperature in small "caballitos" or gourds, accompanied by worm salt and orange slices. In the last decade it has conquered international mixology and the premium consumer markets of the United States, Europe and Asia.

Origin and history

Mezcal has a documented pre-Hispanic origin: the Mesoamerican cultures had been drinking pulque (fermented agave juice) since at least 200 BC, although distillation is the subject of academic debate. The traditional theory held that distillation arrived with the Spanish in the 16th century, who would have taught Arab still techniques. However, archaeological finds at sites such as Xochitecatl-Cacaxtla (Tlaxcala) and in the Colima sierra suggest that Mesoamericans were already distilling agave in conical ceramic ovens before the Conquest. The word mezcal comes from the Nahuatl mexcalli, meaning "oven-cooked maguey". During the viceroyalty, mezcal competed with peninsular spirits and was banned on several occasions by the Crown. After Independence it became established as a national drink. In 1994 it obtained its Denomination of Origin, in 2003 the NOM-070 was published, and since 2010 it has been living a commercial boom that has led it to double its production every five years.

Characteristic ingredients

The agave is the heart of mezcal: the plant takes between 7 and 25 years to mature depending on the species. The most used varieties are espadin (Agave angustifolia, the most common, 80% of Oaxacan mezcal), tobala (Agave potatorum, wild, floral flavour), tepeztate (Agave marmorata, 25 years to mature), madrecuixe, arroqueno, cuishe and cirial. The pina (central heart) is cooked for 3 to 5 days in a conical earth oven lined with hot stones and firewood, which gives the characteristic smoky flavour. After cooking it is crushed in a stone mill (tahona) pulled by a horse or mule, or with a wooden mallet (in the most artisanal versions). The bagasse is fermented for 5 to 30 days in wooden vats with spring water and wild yeasts, and finally distilled twice in a copper or clay still. The official classifications are: Mezcal (industrial), Artisanal Mezcal and Ancestral Mezcal (the most traditional, in a clay still).

Cultural significance

Mezcal is one of Mexico's great cultural ambassadors and holds a Denomination of Origin granted by the Mexican Institute of Industrial Property in 1994, expanded in 2018 to nine states. The NOM-070-SCFI-2016 regulates its production and classifies the three categories: Mezcal, Artisanal and Ancestral. Oaxaca concentrates around 90% of national production, and there are entire communities (Santiago Matatlan, San Dionisio Ocotepec, San Luis del Rio) whose economy depends almost entirely on mezcal. Mezcal culture was inscribed by UNESCO as part of traditional Mexican cuisine in 2010. The recent commercial boom has been spectacular: production went from 980,000 litres in 2011 to more than 14 million in 2023, and exports to the United States are growing at annual rates of 30%. Mezcal has entered the menus of the world's best bars, with cocktails such as the Mezcal Negroni and the Mezcal Paloma, and regularly features in The World's 50 Best Bars.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between mezcal and tequila?

Tequila is a specific variety of mezcal, regulated by a separate DOM that only admits Agave tequilana blue variety, grown in Jalisco and neighbouring municipalities. Mezcal can be made with more than 50 agave species, in nine states, and uses an earth oven (smoky). Tequila is cooked in an autoclave, without smoking.

Why do some mezcals have a worm?

The worm (red chinicuil or white maguey worm) is traditionally added to some "con gusano" mezcals. Its origin is disputed: for some producers it adds flavour; for many historians it is a commercial invention of the 1950s for marketing purposes. High-quality artisanal mezcal usually does not contain one.

How is mezcal correctly drunk?

Neat, at room temperature, in small "caballitos", gourds or wide glasses. It is sipped, not downed in one, to perceive the smoky and herbal notes. It is accompanied by worm salt (a mix of salt, chilli and ground worm) and orange slices. Never with lime and salt like tequila.

Does mezcal have a Denomination of Origin?

Yes. It obtained a Protected Denomination of Origin in 1994 and today covers nine states: Oaxaca, Guerrero, Durango, San Luis Potosi, Zacatecas, Michoacan, Tamaulipas, Puebla and Guanajuato. The NOM-070-SCFI-2016 regulates its production and requires at least 100% agave from the DOM states.