Day of the Dead mole: what it means and why it's offered

What is it?

Mole for the Day of the Dead is one of the central dishes of the Mexican offering of 1 and 2 November, especially in the central and southern states of the country: Puebla, Oaxaca, Tlaxcala, State of Mexico, Morelos, Hidalgo, Guerrero. It is placed in a clay pot on the altar as symbolic food for the souls that return, accompanied by red rice, warm tortillas, pan de muerto, water and salt. After the ritual of the offering, families share the mole in a collective meal that celebrates the spiritual presence of the departed. The varieties vary by region: mole poblano in Puebla and central Mexico, black or yellow mole in Oaxaca, green pumpkin-seed mole in Guerrero, almond or "novia" mole in other areas. It is one of the most symbolic and technically complex dishes of ritual Mexican cooking.

Origin and history

Mole has a pre-Hispanic origin in its original form as "mulli" (sauce in Nahuatl), prepared by the Mesoamerican peoples with chillies, seeds and spices. After the Conquest, mole was enriched with Spanish ingredients (cinnamon, almonds, sesame, clove, pepper), Arab (spices) and African ones. The legend of mole poblano attributes it to Sor Andrea de la Asuncion at the convent of Santa Rosa in Puebla in the 17th century, although contemporary historiography recognises that mole is a collective mestizo product of centuries of evolution. Bernardino de Sahagun documented the Mesoamerican chilli sauces in the 16th century. The association of mole with the Day of the Dead comes from the viceregal period, when the indigenous peoples kept the pre-Hispanic ritual of offering food to the dead but adopted syncretic dishes. Larousse Cocina and Mexico Desconocido agree that mole is the most elaborate and symbolic dish of the offerings. UNESCO inscribed traditional Mexican cuisine, with mole as a central expression, as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2010.

Characteristic ingredients

There are at least seven great families of mole for the Day of the Dead depending on the region. Mole poblano combines 20-30 ingredients: ancho, mulato, pasilla and chipotle chilli; almonds, sesame, peanuts, chilli seeds; cinnamon, clove, pepper, aniseed; raisins, Oaxaca chocolate, plantain; stale bread and tortillas as thickeners. Oaxacan black mole is even more complex (30+ ingredients) with black chilhuacle chillies and burnt chocolate. Oaxacan yellow mole is simpler and more herbaceous with chilcosle chilli. Green pumpkin-seed mole uses pumpkin seed and fresh herbs (epazote, coriander). Novia mole is pale with almonds and cream. The common technique is to toast, hydrate and grind the ingredients in a metate or mill, fry the paste in lard, dilute with broth and cook over low heat for hours. It is served over turkey, chicken or pork. Its traditional preparation takes 2-3 days.

Cultural significance

Mole on the Day of the Dead is a peak expression of Mexican cultural syncretism: the most complex, symbolic and communal dish of national cooking is offered to the departed as a gesture of love, memory and continuity. Making mole is a collective ritual: traditionally the whole family takes part in grinding the ingredients in a metate, which takes days and brings several generations together. The pot of mole is placed on the altar of the dead in a clay pot, symbolising the kitchen as a space of meeting between the living and the dead. After the offering, the mole is shared in a ceremonial meal that brings extended families together. Traditional Mexican cuisine, recognised by UNESCO in 2010 (with Michoacan as the paradigm), has in mole one of its most representative expressions. The Indigenous Festivities dedicated to the Dead were also recognised by UNESCO in 2008. Mole supports rural economies: the production of chillies, spices, cacao and sesame generates income for thousands of Mexican farming families.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between mole poblano and Oaxacan mole for the Day of the Dead?

Mole poblano (Puebla, central Mexico) is dark mahogany in colour, sweet-and-spicy with chocolate, almonds and many dried chillies. Oaxacan black mole is almost black, more smoky and deep, with burnt chilhuacle chillies. Both are offered on the Day of the Dead but in different regions: poblano in the centre, black and yellow Oaxacan ones in Oaxaca. The Oaxacan complexity is usually greater.

What does Day of the Dead mole taste like?

It tastes of a deep combination of toasted dried chillies (smoky, slightly spicy), sweet spices (cinnamon, clove, aniseed), nuts (almonds, sesame), bitter chocolatey notes and fruity ones (raisins, plantain). It is complex, dense, with many layers of flavour that evolve as you chew. It is not extremely spicy but aromatic-sweet-toasted, with a moderate sweetness.

How is mole served on the offering?

It is served in a small clay pot on the altar as a symbolic offering for the returning souls, accompanied by red rice, warm tortillas wrapped in a napkin, pan de muerto, a jug of water, candied squash and other favourite foods of the departed. After the night-time offering of 1 to 2 November, the family eats the mole in a collective meal.

Where does mole come from?

Mole has pre-Hispanic roots in the Mesoamerican mulli (chilli and seed sauce), enriched after the Conquest with European ingredients (sweet spices, almonds), Arab and African ones. The legend attributes it to the convent of Santa Rosa in Puebla in the 17th century, but modern historiography considers it a collective mestizo product. Traditional Mexican cuisine was recognised by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage.