Oaxacan green mole: traditional recipe with fresh herbs and miltomate

What is it?

Green mole is one of the seven emblematic moles of Oaxaca and is distinguished from its relatives by its freshness and colour: its bright green hue comes from the abundant fresh herbs that compose it, without dried or burnt chillies as black or coloradito use. The base is built with miltomate (Oaxacan green tomato), serrano or green jalapeño chilli, hoja santa, parsley, coriander, epazote, mint, avocado leaf and, in some versions, chepiche or pitiona leaves. The thickener is nixtamalised maize masa, which gives it body without heaviness. It is usually cooked with pork or chicken, and served with white beans, green beans and chochoyotes (small masa balls). It is one of the lightest, freshest and most aromatic moles of the Oaxacan recipe book, perfect for warm climates and seasons with an abundance of fresh herbs in the Oaxacan markets.

Origin and history

Oaxacan green mole has deep pre-Hispanic roots: the combination of miltomate, green herbs, green chilli and maize masa is typical of pre-existing Zapotec and Mixtec cuisine. Hoja santa, epazote, mint and coriander were widely used by Mesoamerican cultures as sacred aromatic, medicinal and culinary herbs. Although the term 'mole' is Nahuatl ('molli'), green variants of this type of sauce were prepared by Zapotecs and Mixtecs before the Spanish conquest. During the colonial period, pork was incorporated as the main protein in some versions, replacing wild birds such as wild turkey and pheasant. Green mole is described in 19th-century Oaxacan recipe books as one of the fundamental moles. SAGARPA (today SADER) has promoted it within the heritage recipes of Oaxacan cuisine, and it forms part of Traditional Mexican Cuisine recognised by UNESCO as Intangible Heritage of Humanity in 2010.

Characteristic ingredients

The traditional Oaxacan green mole recipe starts with miltomate (green tomato) roasted or cooked, serrano or green jalapeño chilli, garlic, onion and a generous set of fresh herbs: hoja santa, parsley, coriander, epazote, mint and, depending on the region, avocado leaf, chepiche or pitiona. The herbs are blended raw with the tomatoes and chillies to preserve their fresh aroma. The thickener is diluted nixtamalised maize masa, which is added to the stew and cooked until the desired texture is achieved. It is usually prepared with pork (spine, loin or rib) previously cooked with vegetables or with chicken. It is accompanied with white beans (ayocotes) and green beans, and chochoyotes — small masa balls with a hollow centre so they cook better — are often added. Regional variants: in the Central Valleys the herbal version is preferred; in the Mixteca chepiche is included; in the Sierra Sur avocado leaf is used; in some Zapotec communities radish leaves are added for more depth.

Cultural significance

Oaxacan green mole is one of the most everyday and beloved moles of the Oaxacan recipe book. Its preparation, less complex than black mole, makes it accessible to rural and working-class families, contributing to its living preservation in Zapotec, Mixtec, Chatino and Chinantec communities. It is prepared during festivities such as mayordomías, weddings and baptisms, as well as in harvest celebrations when fresh herbs abound in the markets. SECTUR promotes the seven moles of Oaxaca as a national tourist attraction, and green mole features prominently in gastronomic festivals such as the Mole Fair. Traditional cooks such as Celia Florián, Abigail Mendoza and Pilar Cabrera have included it in their contemporary traditional cuisine menus. It forms part of Traditional Mexican Cuisine, UNESCO Intangible Heritage of Humanity 2010. It economically supports producers of hoja santa, fresh herbs and miltomate at Oaxacan markets such as those of Tlacolula, Etla and Ocotlán every week.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between Oaxacan green mole and Puebla green mole or green pipián?

Oaxacan green mole is thickened with nixtamalised maize masa and contains many fresh herbs (hoja santa, mint, epazote), while Puebla green pipián uses pumpkin seed as the main thickener and fewer varieties of herbs. Both share the green colour, but their texture, flavour and regional origin are different: one is Oaxacan, the other Puebla.

Which herbs are used in Oaxacan green mole?

The most common herbs are hoja santa (Piper auritum), parsley, coriander, epazote and mint. Depending on the Oaxacan region, avocado leaf, chepiche (Porophyllum tagetoides), pitiona (Lippia alba) or radish leaves can be added. The specific combination varies according to the family and the area, but hoja santa is practically obligatory in any authentic Oaxacan green mole.

What is Oaxacan green mole served with?

It is traditionally served with pork (spine, loin or rib) or with chicken, accompanied by white beans (ayocotes), green beans and chochoyotes (masa balls with a hollow centre). It is eaten with handmade Oaxacan tortillas on a clay comal. At big family festivities it is prepared for many diners, served in communal casseroles at the centre of the table.

Is Oaxacan green mole spicy?

Its heat is moderate, since it uses fresh serrano or green jalapeño chillies in controlled quantity. It generally ranges between mild and medium, equivalent to 2,500-8,000 Scoville units. The fresh herbs soften the heat and bring aromatic complexity that distracts from the chilli's heat. Each family adjusts the amount of chilli to the regular diner's taste.