Oaxacan mole verde: what's in it, taste and how to make it

What is it?

Green mole is one of the seven emblematic moles of Oaxaca and is distinguished from its relatives by its freshness and colour: its bright green tone comes from the abundant fresh herbs that make it up, with no dried or charred chillies as the black mole or the coloradito use. The base is built with miltomate (Oaxacan green tomato), serrano or green jalapeño chilli, hoja santa, parsley, coriander, epazote, mint, avocado leaf and, in some versions, chepiche or pitiona leaves. The thickener is nixtamalised maize masa, which provides body without heaviness. It is usually cooked with pork or chicken, and served with white beans, green beans and chochoyotes (little masa balls). It is one of the lightest, freshest and most aromatic moles in the Oaxacan recipe book, perfect for warm climates and seasons with an abundance of fresh herbs in the Oaxacan markets.

Origin and history

Oaxacan green mole has deep pre-Hispanic roots: the combination of miltomate, green herbs, green chilli and maize masa is typical of the pre-existing Zapotec and Mixtec cooking. Hoja santa, epazote, mint and coriander were widely used by the Mesoamerican cultures as sacred, medicinal and culinary aromatics. Although the term 'mole' is Nahuatl ('molli'), green variants of this kind of salsa were prepared by Zapotecs and Mixtecs before the Spanish conquest. During the colonial period, pork was incorporated as the main protein in some versions, replacing wild birds such as the wild turkey and the pheasant. Green mole appears described in the Oaxacan recipe books of the 19th century as one of the fundamental moles. SAGARPA (now SADER) has promoted it among the heritage recipes of Oaxacan cooking, and it forms part of Traditional Mexican Cuisine recognised by UNESCO as Intangible Heritage of Humanity in 2010.

Characteristic ingredients

The traditional recipe for Oaxacan green mole starts from roasted or cooked miltomate (green tomato), serrano or green jalapeño chilli, garlic, onion and a generous set of fresh herbs: hoja santa, parsley, coriander, epazote, mint and, depending on the region, avocado leaf, chepiche or pitiona. The herbs are blended raw with the tomatoes and chillies to preserve their fresh aroma. The thickener is diluted nixtamalised maize masa, which is added to the stew and cooked until the desired texture is reached. It is usually prepared with pork (backbone, loin or rib) previously cooked with vegetables, or with chicken. It is accompanied by white beans (ayocotes) and green beans, and chochoyotes are often added —little masa balls with a hollow so they cook better. Regional variants: in the Central Valleys a more herbal version is preferred; in the Mixteca chepiche is included; in the Sierra Sur avocado leaf is used; in some Zapotec communities radish leaves are added for more depth.

Cultural significance

Oaxacan green mole is one of the most everyday and best-loved moles in the Oaxacan recipe book. Its preparation, less complex than black mole, makes it accessible for rural and working-class families, contributing to its living preservation in Zapotec, Mixtec, Chatino and Chinantec communities. It is prepared during festivities such as mayordomías, weddings and christenings, as well as at harvest celebrations when fresh herbs abound in the markets. SECTUR promotes the seven moles of Oaxaca as a national tourist attraction, and green mole features prominently at gastronomic festivals such as the Mole Fair. Traditional cooks such as Celia Florián, Abigail Mendoza and Pilar Cabrera have included it in their contemporary traditional cooking menus. It forms part of Traditional Mexican Cuisine, UNESCO Intangible Heritage of Humanity 2010. It economically sustains producers of hoja santa, fresh herbs and miltomate in the Oaxacan markets such as those of Tlacolula, Etla and Ocotlán each week.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between Oaxacan green mole and Puebla green mole or green pipián?

Oaxacan green mole is thickened with nixtamalised maize masa and carries many fresh herbs (hoja santa, mint, epazote), while Puebla green pipián uses pumpkin seed as its main thickener and fewer herbs. Both share the green colour, but their texture, flavour and regional origin are different: one is Oaxacan, the other from Puebla.

Which herbs are used in Oaxacan green mole?

The most common herbs are hoja santa (Piper auritum), parsley, coriander, epazote and mint. Depending on the Oaxacan region, avocado leaf, chepiche (Porophyllum tagetoides), pitiona (Lippia alba) or radish leaves may be added. The specific combination varies by family and area, but hoja santa is practically obligatory in any authentic Oaxacan green mole.

What is Oaxacan green mole served with?

It is traditionally served with pork (backbone, loin or rib) or with chicken, accompanied by white beans (ayocotes), green beans and chochoyotes (hollow masa balls). It is eaten with hand-made Oaxacan tortillas on a clay comal. At large family festivities it is prepared for many diners, served in communal earthenware dishes in the centre of the table.

Is Oaxacan green mole spicy?

Its heat is moderate, since it uses fresh serrano or green jalapeño chillies in a controlled amount. It generally ranges from mild to medium, equivalent to 2,500-8,000 Scoville units. The fresh herbs soften the heat and provide aromatic complexity that distracts from the chilli's warmth. Each family adjusts the amount of chilli to the taste of the usual diner.