Plantain: versatile fruit of south-eastern Mexico

What is it?

The plantain (Musa paradisiaca) is a large, elongated and starchy variety of the genus Musa, which is eaten cooked or fried rather than raw. It has a thick green skin that turns yellow and then black on ripening, with firm starchy pulp of neutral flavour when green and sweeter when ripe. It is grown in Mexican tropical regions, mainly in Tabasco, Veracruz, Chiapas, Oaxaca, Colima and Guerrero. It is a versatile ingredient in the cooking of south-eastern Mexico and the Gulf coast, where it appears in iconic dishes such as fried plantains with crema, plantain empanadas with beans, black beans with plantain, fritters and traditional sweets. It forms part of the Afro-mestizo cooking of Veracruz and of Tabasco cooking.

Origin and history

The plantain is not native to Mexico but to south-east Asia, where it was domesticated more than 7,000 years ago. It arrived in America through Spanish and Portuguese conquerors during the sixteenth century; records indicate that Fray Tomás de Berlanga took the first plantain from the Canary Islands to the island of Hispaniola in 1516, from where it spread throughout the continent. In Mexico it quickly naturalised in the tropical regions of the Gulf, south-east and Pacific coast, where it found an ideal warm humid climate. The 'macho' or cooking plantain variety became popular especially in Tabasco, Veracruz and Chiapas, integrating deeply into the regional recipe collection with African influence brought by enslaved peoples during the colonial period. SADER reports that Mexico is one of the main Latin American producers of plantain, with Tabasco at the top. Larousse Cocina records it as an essential fruit of the Mexican tropical recipe collection.

Characteristic ingredients

The plantain is distinguished from dessert banana (Musa acuminata) by its larger size, higher starch content and lower sugar; it must be eaten cooked. The plants reach up to 7 metres, are not trees but giant herbaceous plants with pseudostems formed by leaf sheaths. Each cluster ('hand') can have between 30 and 60 fruits. The pulp contains starch, vitamin A, vitamin C, potassium, magnesium and fibre. Green it is used as a starchy vegetable in fries, chips (thinly sliced fried plantains as a snack), tostones (thick slices flattened and fried) and stews. Ripe it becomes sweet and is used in fried plantains with crema, sweet empanadas, stuffed molotes, fritters with cheese and sweets. In Yucatecan cooking it appears in polkán and strained beans; in Veracruz it is prepared with black beans as a classic accompaniment. Soups, atoles and sweets such as plantain in syrup are also made.

Cultural significance

The plantain is an identifying element of Afro-mestizo and tropical Mexican cooking. In Veracruz it accompanies black beans and is served fried with crema, while in Tabasco it appears in dishes such as plantains stuffed with picadillo or cheese and boiled plantains as a side to meats. In Chiapas, sweet plantain empanadas and molotes are prepared; on the Costa Chica of Guerrero and Oaxaca it plays a central role in Afro-Mexican cooking. SADER recognises Tabasco as the country's leading plantain-producing state. The crop supports rural economies in tropical regions and is an essential component of the daily diet of many families. It does not have a denomination of origin, but Tabasco plantain is recognised for its quality. Its culinary versatility, calorie contribution and affordable price have made it one of the most democratic fruits of Mexican cooking in the south-east and the coasts.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between plantain and dessert banana?

The plantain (Musa paradisiaca) is larger, starchy and eaten cooked or fried; it has thick skin and firm pulp low in sugars when green. The dessert or 'Tabasco' banana (Musa acuminata) is small, sweet and eaten raw. Although they belong to the same genus, they are varieties with completely different culinary uses in Mexican cooking.

What does plantain taste like?

Green it has a starchy neutral flavour similar to potato; ripe it becomes sweet with caramelised tropical notes but keeps its firmness. When fried it develops a concentrated sweetness with very appealing crunchy edges. The contrast with salt, cheese, crema or black beans is one of the classic pairings of Veracruz and Tabasco cooking.

How is plantain eaten?

Always cooked or fried: ripe it is sliced and fried to accompany rice, beans and meats; in sweet empanadas filled with beans or cheese; in molotes and fritters; in syrup as a dessert. Green it is used in tostones, fried chips, soups, strained beans and stews. It is an essential ingredient of the Afro-mestizo and tropical cooking of Veracruz, Tabasco, Chiapas and the Costa Chica.

Where does the plantain originate?

The plantain is native to south-east Asia and was domesticated more than 7,000 years ago. It arrived in America with the Spanish in the sixteenth century, landed by Fray Tomás de Berlanga in Hispaniola in 1516. It quickly naturalised in south-eastern Mexico, particularly Tabasco, Veracruz and Chiapas, where it was integrated into the recipe collection with African influence brought during the colonial period.