Tamales barbones: what they are and how to make them

What is it?

Barbon tamales are one of the most original and recognisable tamales in Mexico. They come from Escuinapa, Sinaloa, a coastal town in the south of the state known for its prawn production. Their name refers to the whiskers (antennae) of the fresh prawn, which poke out of the maize-husk wrapping, giving them an unmistakable look. Each tamale has one or two whole prawns with their heads, layered with maize dough dyed with guajillo chilli and spices. They are steamed with the whiskers left outside. The result is a tamale of intense marine flavour, slightly spicy and absolutely Sinaloan. It appears at Christmas celebrations, gastronomic fairs and in specialist restaurants of Escuinapa and Mazatlan as one of the culinary symbols of the North Pacific.

Origin and history

Barbon tamales were born in Escuinapa, Sinaloa, according to Esto es Sinaloa and Directo al Paladar, as a recipe of the fishermen and prawn catchers of the marshy Pacific area during the 20th century. The abundance of fresh prawn caught in the marshes and estuaries of Escuinapa made it possible to develop a unique recipe that used the whole product without waste. The name barbon ("whiskered") refers to the long whiskers that the fresh prawn keeps after the catch: poking out of the tamale, they serve as natural decoration and as a certificate of the product's freshness. Luz Noticias documents that the tradition has been kept in families dedicated to fishing for several generations and that the barbon tamale is today part of Escuinapa's gastronomic identity, declared an emblematic dish by the municipality. In 2014 Escuinapa attempted to register the denomination of origin and since then holds the annual Feria del Tamal Barbon.

Characteristic ingredients

The dough is made with nixtamalised maize, pork lard, salt and a salsa of guajillo chilli, ancho chilli, garlic, onion, cumin and oregano that gives it a reddish colour and a deep flavour. The prawn must be fresh, medium to large, caught in the marshes and kept with its head, shell and whiskers intact. Each tamale has between one and two whole prawns, depending on size. The dried maize husk is hydrated in hot water, spread out, a layer of dough with salsa is spread on, the prawn is laid on the dough with its head and whiskers poking towards one of the open ends, and the tamale is closed by wrapping only the lower half. They are arranged standing up in the steamer with the whiskers facing up and steamed for 45 minutes to 1 hour. Quick cooking is key so the prawn does not overcook.

Cultural significance

Barbon tamales are gastronomic heritage of Escuinapa and of all of Sinaloa. The Feria del Tamal Barbon, held each year in the municipality, draws national and international gastronomic tourism and brings together producers competing for the best tamale. Esto es Sinaloa and Luz Noticias document that more than a hundred Escuinapa families live from the artisanal production of the barbon tamale. Sinaloan cooking in general, with its seafood and its north-western imprint, was recognised by UNESCO as part of Mexican cuisine inscribed in the Intangible Heritage of Humanity in 2010. The barbon tamale is one of its most photogenic emblems for its unmistakable look. Mexican chefs such as Aquiles Chavez (of Chiapas-Sinaloa background) have taken the barbon tamale into fine dining, presenting it on television programmes and in cookbooks. It is an example of how Mexican coastal cooking has developed strong regional identities.

Frequently asked questions

Why are they called barbon tamales?

They are called that because they have a whole prawn with its whiskers (antennae) intact, which poke out of the maize-husk wrapping after cooking. Those protruding whiskers are the tamale's visual signature and proof that the prawn is fresh and locally caught. The name was coined in Escuinapa, Sinaloa, where the recipe was born, and has become popular throughout north-western Mexico.

Where do barbon tamales come from?

They come from Escuinapa, Sinaloa, a coastal municipality in the south of the state on the Mexican Pacific. There the abundance of marsh prawn allowed fishermen and cooks to develop the recipe over the 20th century. The municipality holds the annual Feria del Tamal Barbon and they are considered an emblematic dish of the state. Today they are also found in Mazatlan, Tepic and specialist restaurants throughout Sinaloa.

What do barbon tamales taste like?

They taste of fresh prawn with a deep base of guajillo and ancho chilli. The dough absorbs the prawn juices during steaming, ending up slightly marine and spicy. The prawn, cooked with its head, releases all its flavour (the head is where the greatest concentration of taste is). The whole is intense, coastal and very different from any tamale of central Mexico. The maize husk adds a subtle smoky aroma.

How are barbon tamales served?

They are served hot, one or two per person, opening the maize husk so the whiskers are visible. They are accompanied by fresh lime, Sinaloan salsa macha (made of chile de arbol with oil and garlic) and a michelada or cold beer. At fairs they are sold on a cardboard plate with a napkin. Some restaurants serve them over sweetcorn cream or with a touch of chipotle mayonnaise as a modern garnish.