Tamales barbones: the prawn jewel of Escuinapa, Sinaloa

What is it?

Tamales barbones are one of the most original and recognisable tamales in Mexico. They come from Escuinapa, Sinaloa, a coastal town in the south of the state known for its prawn production. Their name alludes to the barbas (feelers) of the fresh prawn, which stick out of the maize-husk wrap, giving them an unmistakable look. Each tamale contains one or two whole prawns with heads, interspersed with maize masa tinted with chile guajillo and spices. They are steamed keeping the feelers outside. The result is a tamale of intense marine flavour, slightly spicy and absolutely Sinaloan. It appears at December celebrations, gastronomic fairs and in specialist restaurants of Escuinapa and Mazatlán as one of the culinary symbols of the Pacific North.

Origin and history

Tamales barbones were born in Escuinapa, Sinaloa, according to Esto es Sinaloa and Directo al Paladar, as a recipe of fishermen and prawn fishers from the marsh-Pacific area during the twentieth century. The abundance of fresh prawn caught in the marshes and estuaries of Escuinapa allowed the development of a unique recipe that made use of the whole product without waste. The name barbón alludes to the long feelers that fresh prawns keep after capture: protruding from the tamale, they serve as natural decoration and as a certificate of the product's freshness. Luz Noticias documents that the tradition has been maintained in families dedicated to fishing for several generations and that the tamal barbón is today part of the gastronomic identity of Escuinapa, declared by the municipality as an emblematic dish. In 2014 Escuinapa tried to register the denomination of origin and since then it has annually celebrated the Feria del Tamal Barbón.

Characteristic ingredients

The masa is prepared with nixtamalised maize, lard, salt and a sauce of chile guajillo, chile ancho, garlic, onion, cumin and oregano that gives it a reddish colour and deep flavour. The prawn must be fresh, medium to large, caught in the marsh and kept with head, shell and feelers intact. Each tamale contains one or two whole prawns, depending on size. The dried maize husk is hydrated in hot water, spread out, a layer of masa with sauce is applied, the prawn is laid on the masa with its head and feelers protruding towards one of the open ends, and the tamale is closed wrapping only the lower half. They are arranged standing in the steamer with the feelers facing up and steamed for 45 minutes to 1 hour. The quick cooking is key so that the prawn does not overcook.

Cultural significance

Tamales barbones are gastronomic heritage of Escuinapa and of the whole of Sinaloa. The Feria del Tamal Barbón, celebrated each year in the municipality, attracts national and international gastronomic tourism and brings together producers competing for the best tamale. Esto es Sinaloa and Luz Noticias document that more than a hundred Escuinapa families live on the artisanal production of the tamal barbón. Sinaloan cooking in general, with its seafood and its north-western imprint, was recognised by UNESCO as part of Mexican cuisine inscribed on the Intangible Heritage of Humanity in 2010. The tamal barbón is one of its most photogenic emblems because of its unmistakable look. Mexican chefs such as Aquiles Chávez (Chiapas-Sinaloan) have taken the tamal barbón to haute cuisine, presenting it on television programmes and in cookbooks. It is an example of how Mexican coastal cooking has developed strong regional identities.

Frequently asked questions

Why are they called tamales barbones?

They are called this because they contain whole prawn with their barbas (feelers) intact, which protrude from the maize-husk wrap after cooking. Those protruding feelers are the visual signature of the tamale and proof that the prawn is fresh and locally caught. The name was coined in Escuinapa, Sinaloa, where the recipe was born, and has spread across north-western Mexico.

Where do tamales barbones originate?

They originate from Escuinapa, Sinaloa, a coastal municipality in the south of the state on the Mexican Pacific. The abundance of marsh prawns there enabled fishermen and cooks to develop the recipe throughout the twentieth century. The municipality annually celebrates the Feria del Tamal Barbón and they are considered an emblematic dish of the state. Today they are also found in Mazatlán, Tepic and specialist restaurants throughout Sinaloa.

What do tamales barbones taste like?

They taste of fresh prawn with a deep background of chile guajillo and ancho. The masa absorbs the prawn juices during steaming, becoming slightly marine and spicy. The prawn, cooked with its head on, releases all its flavour (the head is where the greatest concentration of taste lies). The whole is intense, coastal and very different from any central tamale. The maize husk lends a subtle smoky aroma.

How are tamales barbones served?

They are served hot, one or two per person, opening the maize husk so that the feelers remain visible. They are accompanied by fresh lime, Sinaloa salsa macha (chile de árbol with oil and garlic) and a michelada or cold beer. At fairs they are sold on a card plate with a napkin. Some restaurants serve them on sweetcorn cream or with a touch of chipotle mayonnaise as a modern garnish.