Mole tamales: what they are and how to make them

What is it?

Mole tamales are one of the pillars of the Mexican tamale repertoire. They have nixtamalised maize dough beaten with lard until fluffy, a piece of shredded chicken and a generous spoonful of mole, almost always poblano or red. They are wrapped in maize husk and steamed in large iron tamaleras. In Mexico City, Puebla and Tlaxcala they are the preferred choice for an early breakfast, accompanied by clay-pot coffee, chocolate atole or inside a telera as a tamale torta. Together with the green tamale with chicken and the rajas con queso tamale, they form the classic trilogy that tamale vendors offer from white carts at dawn.

Origin and history

The mole tamale is a direct fruit of the colonial mestizaje between the pre-Hispanic cooking of the tamale and the convent cooking of mole, both perfected in Puebla from the 17th century. Tamales predate the Conquest; mole poblano, according to the most widespread legend, was developed at the Convent of Santa Rosa in Puebla, attributed to Sor Andrea de la Asuncion to honour the viceroy. The combination of the two took hold during the 18th and 19th centuries in the kitchens of Puebla and spread throughout central Mexico. Recetas Nestle and Cocina Facil document that the current version with chicken cooked in its juices, mole poblano or red, and fluffy dough comes from the Mexican family kitchens of the 20th century, where using up leftover mole to fill tamales was a common practice. Milenio highlights that in the towns of the Mixteca and the Sierra Norte de Puebla they are still made for patron-saint festivities and mayordomias.

Characteristic ingredients

The dough of mole tamales is made with finely ground nixtamalised maize, pork lard well beaten until it is fluffy and floats in water, salt and degreased chicken broth. Some recipes add baking powder to guarantee fluffiness. The filling is shredded chicken cooked in broth with onion, garlic and bay leaf. The mole can be poblano (with chocolate, spices, ancho, mulato and pasilla chillies and almonds) or a simpler red mole (ancho and guajillo chilli, sesame and bread). The dried maize husks are hydrated for 30 minutes in hot water to make them flexible. To assemble the tamale, a layer of dough is spread over the husk, shredded chicken is placed and bathed in mole, the wrapping is closed and they are steamed for 1 hour to 1 hour and a half. The dough ends up fluffy, the chicken juicy and the mole impregnates the whole piece.

Cultural significance

Mole tamales represent the heart of the mestizo Mexican table and are central to Candlemas Day (2 February), Christmas, Day of the Dead, mayordomias and patron-saint festivities across much of central and southern Mexico. Traditional Mexican cuisine, with its tamales and moles, was recognised by UNESCO in 2010 as Intangible Heritage of Humanity. In Mexico City, the tamale carts are an economic mainstay for thousands of migrant families (especially from Oaxaca, Puebla and Guerrero) who sell in the streets from before dawn. In Puebla and Tlaxcala, mole tamales are ritual food of mayordomias and indigenous weddings, where they are made by the hundred to feed whole communities. The synergy between mole, considered the national mother sauce, and the tamale, as the vehicle of sacred maize, makes them one of the most complete symbols of Mexican culinary identity.

Frequently asked questions

What mole is used for mole tamales?

The most traditional is mole poblano (with ancho, mulato and pasilla chillies, chocolate, almonds, sesame and spices). In Mexico City and many stalls, home-made red mole or industrial mole paste diluted in broth is used. In Oaxaca they may make them with black or coloradito mole; in Guerrero with green or red mole; in Morelos with mole de olla. Each region has its favourite mole for tamales.

What is the difference between a mole tamale and a green tamale?

Both contain shredded chicken and fluffy dough, but the mole tamale has mole poblano or red mole (dried chillies, chocolate, spices), while the green tamale has green tomatillo salsa, serrano chilli and coriander. The mole one has a deep, complex and slightly sweet flavour; the green one is sour, fresh and spicy. They are the two best-selling chicken versions in Mexico City.

Where do mole tamales come from?

They come from central Mexico, especially Puebla, Tlaxcala and Mexico City, where mole poblano was created in the colonial convents of the 17th century and combined with the pre-Hispanic tradition of the tamale. Today they are typical throughout central and southern Mexico: Oaxaca, Guerrero, Morelos, the State of Mexico and Veracruz have their own versions with local moles.

How are mole tamales served?

They are served hot, fresh from the steamer, one or two per person, accompanied by clay-pot coffee, chocolate atole or pinole atole. The emblematic chilango way is the tamale torta or guajolota: the mole tamale inside a bolillo or telera. At parties they are served on a plate with refried beans, cream and fresh cheese on top.