Northern tamales: the small pork tamales in the Sinaloa style

What is it?

Northern tamales are the version prepared in Sinaloa, Sonora, Chihuahua and the border states of northern Mexico. Unlike central tamales, they are smaller, elongated and thinner pieces, with firm and slightly drier masa, filled with shredded pork in red chilli (chile ancho or California seco). They are steamed by the dozen in large tamale pots during December, when whole families gather in tamaladas before Christmas and New Year. The masa is slightly less fluffy than the chilango version, but its deep chilli flavour and the juiciness of the pork make them unmistakable. They form a central part of the Northern Christmas tradition and are one of the most prized edible gifts of the border winter.

Origin and history

The northern tamale has roots in the pre-Hispanic tradition of the tamale shared throughout Mesoamerica, but its current form was shaped in the colonial and mestizo transition of northern Mexico. Animal Gourmet documents that Sinaloa, Sonora and Chihuahua adopted the small, thin tamale for practical reasons: economy of masa and meat, portability and quicker cooking. TV Pacífico and Maseca explain that northern family recipes usually use chile colorado (dried ancho or California chile, called chile colorado in the north) instead of mole poblano or green salsa, and abundant lard to give it richness. The tradition of the December tamalada, where 5 to 10 people gather to make hundreds of tamales in one session, has been documented at least since the early twentieth century and is still the most important social culinary event of the northern winter.

Characteristic ingredients

The masa is made with finely ground nixtamalised maize or nixtamalised flour (such as Maseca), abundant lard (key to the juicy texture), salt, baking powder and pork broth. It is whisked less than in the centre: northern masa comes out denser and richer rather than fluffy. The traditional filling is pork loin (shoulder or leg) cooked with garlic, onion and bay leaf until shredded, then stewed in a chile colorado sauce (hydrated ancho or California seco blended with garlic, cumin and oregano). In Sinaloa olives and raisins are added; in Chihuahua sometimes potatoes; in Sonora it is kept simple. Dried maize husks are hydrated in hot water and a thin layer of masa is spread on them, the stew is placed on top and they are closed into small rectangles about 12 cm long. They are steamed for one hour.

Cultural significance

Northern tamales are synonymous with Christmas in north-western Mexico. The Christmas tamalada brings together several generations around a long table where leaves are spread and tamales are shaped by the dozen. In Sinaloa, where the tamales barbones and northern tamales coexist, December is the high season for street sales and gift-giving among families. TV Pacífico and Luz Noticias highlight that the north has resisted the homogenisation of the chilango tamale and keeps its small version with chile colorado as a regional identity marker. For many families who have migrated to the United States (Arizona, California, Texas), the northern tamale is one of the nostalgic anchors of the Mexican winter. Maseca even publishes PDF recipe collections specific to the northern tamale, recognising its commercial and cultural weight. The tradition is also linked to the informal economy: many women in the north support their households by selling hundreds of tamales daily in December.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between a northern tamale and a central tamale?

The northern tamale is smaller and thinner, with firm and slightly dry masa, and contains pork in dried red chilli (chile ancho or California). The central tamale is usually larger, with fluffy masa, and contains chicken in mole, green or rajas with cheese. The key difference lies in the chilli used, the consistency of the masa and the compact size of the northern tamale versus the voluminous one of the centre.

Which chilli does the northern tamale contain?

It contains chile colorado seco, the name by which chile ancho or dried California chile is known in northern Mexico. It is a dark-red ancho chilli, with fruity flavour and moderate heat. It is rehydrated, blended with garlic, cumin and oregano to make the sauce that seasons the meat. In Chihuahua it is sometimes combined with chile guajillo; in Sinaloa it may include some chile pasilla.

What do northern tamales taste like?

They taste of maize, lard, pork and dried red chilli. The masa is rich but less fluffy than the chilango version, with a more concentrated maize flavour. The chile colorado provides fruity sweetness and gentle heat, and the shredded pork gives juiciness. The overall result is hearty, slightly earthy and very comforting in winter cold. Some contain olives and raisins, which add a savoury-sweet contrast.

When are northern tamales prepared?

They are prepared above all in December, during the Christmas season, on family days called tamaladas where 5 to 10 people gather to produce hundreds of tamales. They also appear at birthdays, christenings and New Year celebrations. In Sinaloa, Sonora and Chihuahua their street sale is intense from November to January, although specialist stalls offer them throughout the year.