What is the difference between blue tortilla and common tortilla?

Blue tortilla comes from native maize races pigmented by anthocyanins, has a more fruity and earthy flavour, higher antioxidant content. Common (white) tortilla is made with white races, more neutral flavour. Both are nixtamalised with the same process, but the genetics of the grain determines colour, flavour and final nutritional properties. Coloured tortillas are an artisanal premium product.

What does a red maize tortilla taste like?

It has a flavour of toasted maize with sweetish notes, slightly fruity, similar to white maize but with more complex nuances. The texture is the same as a common tortilla if made with the same technique. It is delicate on the palate and is best appreciated on its own or with subtle stews that do not mask its natural aromas.

How are coloured tortillas cooked?

They are prepared exactly the same as white tortillas: with nixtamalised masa of the chosen colour. A ball is formed, pressed in a tortilla press between two plastic sheets, cooked on a hot comal for 30 to 90 seconds per side until it puffs up. The colour does not affect the technique, it is only an attribute of the maize used in the masa. The important thing is to get a good nixtamalised masa of native races.

Where do coloured tortillas come from?

Coloured tortillas are originally from Mesoamerica, where maize was domesticated more than 9,000 years ago and developed into multiple pigmented races. Today they are mainly found in Oaxaca, Tlaxcala, Puebla, State of Mexico, Hidalgo, Veracruz and Michoacan, regions where peasants conserve native races as part of the traditional milpa system.

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Coloured tortillas: blue, red, yellow and white maize

What is it?

Coloured tortillas are a visible expression of the incredible diversity of Mexican native maize races. Although white tortilla is the most common on Mexican tables, in markets, eateries and specialised restaurants you can find blue, purple, red, yellow, orange, pink and black tortillas, each made with native maizes pigmented by anthocyanins, carotenoids or other plant compounds. This variety reflects the genetic richness of Mesoamerican maize: Mexico is the centre of origin and domestication of maize, with 64 native races registered by CONABIO. Each colour of tortilla provides a distinctive flavour, different nutritional properties and a cultural message about diversity. The preservation of coloured tortillas is part of the fight for food sovereignty and the protection of native maizes against industrial hybrids.

Origin and history

The chromatic diversity of Mexican maize is pre-Hispanic: in codices and chronicles, maizes of multiple colours cultivated in different regions of Mesoamerica are documented. Fray Bernardino de Sahagun records at least four varieties: iztac centli (white maize), coztic centli (yellow maize), yauhtlaolli (dark/purple maize) and xiuhtoctli (reddish maize), all ritually cultivated and associated with the four cardinal points in Nahua cosmology. Diversity was the product of thousands of years of peasant selection, adaptation to microclimates and management of germplasm. After the conquest, many native races were maintained in indigenous areas while the yellow industrial hybrid maizes of the 20th century reduced diversity at the commercial level. CONABIO, INIFAP and SAGARPA (today SADER) have worked since the 1990s on programmes to protect, register and rescue native races. Larousse Cocina and various sources document the resurgence of coloured tortillas in revaluation projects such as Itanoni (Oaxaca), Maizajo and fine-dining restaurants.

Characteristic ingredients

Each colour of tortilla comes from specific maize races and compounds. Blue and purple tortillas are made with races such as Chalqueno Azul, Conico Azul or Cacahuazintle Azul, pigmented by anthocyanins (the same compounds as blueberry and hibiscus), with fruity flavour and earthy notes. Red and pink tortillas come from races such as Bofo Rojo, Rojo del Oaxaca or Tablilla, with similar but less intense pigments; sweet flavour. Yellow and orange tortillas are made with maizes of carotenoids (precursors of vitamin A) such as yellow Bolita, Pepitilla and yellow Tuxpeno; more intense flavour. White tortillas are the most common, made with Tuxpeno, Tabloncillo and other white races. Black tortillas (rarer) are made with Negrito and black Cacahuazintle, with deep flavour. The technical preparation is identical for all: nixtamalisation with lime, grinding and making tortillas. Cooking with lime can modify tones: anthocyanins in an alkaline medium darken, while carotenoids are more stable. Markets offer artisanal coloured tortillas in Oaxaca, Tlaxcala, State of Mexico, Puebla and Mexico City.

Cultural significance

Coloured tortillas are a living symbol of Mexican food biodiversity and the cultural value of native maizes. Traditional Mexican cuisine, recognised by UNESCO in 2010 as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, integrates the diversity of maize as a fundamental element. The 'Sin Maiz no hay Pais' movement brings together peasants, scientists, cooks and activists who defend Mexican food sovereignty and the protection of native races against transgenic maize. Projects such as Itanoni in Oaxaca, Casa Mariscal and Maizajo in Mexico City specialise their offer in tortillas of native and coloured races, where the customer can taste tortillas of five or six colours in a single meal. CONABIO has published the atlas of the biological diversity of native maize, an international reference document. At fairs and gastronomic festivals such as the Maize Fair, the Traditional Cooks Competition of Oaxaca and the festivals in Tlaxcala, coloured tortillas are protagonists. Contemporary international cuisine has adopted them as premium ingredients.

Related recipes

Now that you know what it is, try cooking it at home with our step-by-step recipes:

Handmade Maize Tortillas

Ingredients to cook it

Find where to buy authentic ingredients in Mexican shops in the US:

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between blue tortilla and common tortilla?: Blue tortilla comes from native maize races pigmented by anthocyanins, has a more fruity and earthy flavour, higher antioxidant content. Common (white) tortilla is made with white races, more neutral flavour. Both are nixtamalised with the same process, but the genetics of the grain determines colour, flavour and final nutritional properties. Coloured tortillas are an artisanal premium product.
What does a red maize tortilla taste like?: It has a flavour of toasted maize with sweetish notes, slightly fruity, similar to white maize but with more complex nuances. The texture is the same as a common tortilla if made with the same technique. It is delicate on the palate and is best appreciated on its own or with subtle stews that do not mask its natural aromas.
How are coloured tortillas cooked?: They are prepared exactly the same as white tortillas: with nixtamalised masa of the chosen colour. A ball is formed, pressed in a tortilla press between two plastic sheets, cooked on a hot comal for 30 to 90 seconds per side until it puffs up. The colour does not affect the technique, it is only an attribute of the maize used in the masa. The important thing is to get a good nixtamalised masa of native races.
Where do coloured tortillas come from?: Coloured tortillas are originally from Mesoamerica, where maize was domesticated more than 9,000 years ago and developed into multiple pigmented races. Today they are mainly found in Oaxaca, Tlaxcala, Puebla, State of Mexico, Hidalgo, Veracruz and Michoacan, regions where peasants conserve native races as part of the traditional milpa system.