Agua de horchata: Mexican recipe of rice with cinnamon

What is it?

Mexican agua de horchata is a white and creamy fresh drink prepared with soaked and blended rice, cinnamon, sugar, milk and vanilla. Its sweet, mild and spiced flavour makes it one of the most iconic aguas frescas of Mexico. It is served daily at fondas, restaurants and markets throughout the country, forming together with jamaica and agua de limón the classic trio that accompanies everyday Mexican food. Although it shares its name with Spanish Valencian horchata (made with chufa), Mexican horchata is a different preparation, derived from the colonial substitution of chufa with rice, an ingredient abundant in American territory. It is consumed in all the country's regions with slight variations in the proportion of cinnamon and milk.

Origin and history

Horchata as a category has Mediterranean origins: the Valencian horchata of chufa is documented from the 13th century in the Iberian peninsula, derived from Arab drinks with almonds and seeds. The Spanish brought the concept to New Spain in the 16th century, but chufa did not acclimatise well to Mexican territory. Colonial convents adapted the recipe by replacing it with rice, an equally starchy and affordable ingredient, giving rise to Mexican horchata towards the 17th and 18th centuries. Larousse Cocina notes that the Mexican version is distinguished by the obligatory use of cinnamon and, in many regions, cow's milk. The addition of milk is relatively modern; in the traditional rural version it was prepared only with water and the prolonged soaking of the rice gave the natural creaminess. In Yucatán a variant is made with grated coconut; in Oaxaca, crushed red tuna is added at the end, creating a characteristic white-red contrast of Oaxacan horchata.

Characteristic ingredients

Common white rice is the main ingredient; some recipes use brown rice for more rustic variants. It is soaked for six to twelve hours in cold water with a cinnamon stick to hydrate the grains and release the starch. Then it is blended with all the soaking liquid, strained through muslin or a fine sieve and mixed with additional water, milk, sugar and vanilla extract. The usual proportion is one cup of rice per two final litres of water. Variants: Oaxacan horchata incorporates blended red tuna and chopped walnut as decoration; Yucatecan horchata carries grated coconut or coconut milk; the coastal horchata replaces part of the water with evaporated milk for greater creaminess. Ground cinnamon dusted on serving is an almost obligatory decoration. Some families add peeled almonds soaked with the rice, evoking the original Arab recipe. The ideal texture is slightly thick but drinkable, with fine rice sediments that settle at the bottom of the glass.

Cultural significance

Horchata is one of the most recognisable drinks of Mexican popular cuisine, a symbol of fondas, markets and family meals. It is served daily alongside jamaica and agua de limón in the classic trio of aguas frescas that defines the experience of eating in Mexico. It has a prominent presence in family celebrations, rural weddings, patron-saint fairs and Day of the Dead festivities. Traditional Mexican cuisine, UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity since 2010, includes aguas frescas as an everyday expression of its heritage. Oaxacan horchata, with its characteristic red tuna, is one of the icons of the Guelaguetza and regional festivities of the state. In contemporary popular culture, Mexican horchata has transcended borders: in the United States it is part of the standard menu of any Mexican restaurant, and its consumption grows annually among Hispanics according to US food-industry data.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between Mexican and Spanish horchata?

Spanish Valencian horchata is made with chufa, a Mediterranean tuber; the Mexican one uses rice as the base. The Spanish one is more unctuous and nutty-fruity; the Mexican one is lighter, sweeter and spiced with cinnamon. Both share Arab-Mediterranean origins, but evolved separately after the Conquest. Chufa was not grown in the Americas, which is why New Spanish convents replaced it with rice.

What does Mexican horchata taste like?

It tastes of sweet rice with milk and cinnamon, with a vanilla background and a slightly grainy texture when homemade. It is reminiscent of drinkable rice pudding but lighter and more refreshing. Its mild, creamy and spiced profile makes it ideal for balancing the heat of salsas and stews. Served well chilled it is one of the most comforting aguas frescas of the Mexican repertoire.

What is the difference between Oaxacan and regular horchata?

Oaxacan horchata carries blended red tuna that is added on serving, creating an intense red-and-white colour contrast, plus chopped walnut and finely cut melon. Regular Mexican horchata is white, without fruit, only with ground cinnamon dusted on top. The Oaxacan one is more festive and complex in flavour; both share the base of soaked and blended rice.

Does it always have to contain milk?

It is not obligatory but it is very common. In the traditional rural version, the rice was soaked long enough for its natural starch to give the white creaminess, without the need to add dairy. Whole, evaporated or condensed milk was incorporated in the 20th century to standardise and enrich the texture. There are vegan versions with almond or coconut milk that respect the original spirit.