Bu'pu: what it is and how the Zapotec drink is made

What is it?

Bu'pu is a frothy ceremonial drink originating in the Isthmus of Tehuantepec in Oaxaca, prepared by the Zapotec communities with toasted cacao, maize, the foam of aromatic flowers and spices. Its name comes from the Zapotec language and translates roughly as 'foam' or 'frothy'. The preparation is distinguished by the inclusion of flowers specific to the region (rosita de cacao, pochote flower, marigold) that provide a unique aroma, and by secret ingredients passed down orally among the Zapotec women who preserve the tradition. It has a thick texture with a crown of dense floating foam. It is an indispensable ritual drink at Zapotec festivities, especially the velas (the patron-saint festivals of the Isthmus), weddings, baptisms, novenas and Day of the Dead celebrations. It is made in Juchitán, Tehuantepec, San Blas Atempa, Salina Cruz and Ixtaltepec, cultural hubs of the Zapotec Isthmus.

Origin and history

Bu'pu belongs to the pre-Hispanic Zapotec heritage of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, one of the most distinctive cultural regions of Mexico where Zapotec culture maintains a strong identity of its own. The Isthmus Zapotecs, known as binnizá ('people who come from the clouds'), have preserved very ancient culinary traditions, among them the making of frothy ceremonial drinks with cacao and flowers. The edible flowers used in bu'pu, such as rosita de cacao (Quararibea funebris) and the pochote flower, had ritual use among the ancient Zapotecs, documented since the Mesoamerican Classic period (250-900 AD) at archaeological sites such as Monte Albán and Mitla. Larousse Cocina identifies bu'pu as an emblematic drink of the Zapotec Isthmus. The tradition has survived five centuries of cultural change thanks to the central role of the velas, the Isthmus patron-saint festivities that celebrate Catholic saints but preserve a Zapotec ritual and symbolic structure. The makers of bu'pu, older women known as 'bu'pu yoo' ('women of the foam'), are guardians of culinary knowledge and receive community respect for preserving the heritage.

Characteristic ingredients

Bu'pu requires specific ingredients of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec: toasted criollo cacao, nixtamalised maize dough, sugar or panela, dried rosita de cacao (Quararibea funebris), dried pochote petals (Ceiba aesculifolia) and, optionally, toasted mamey stone (pixtle) or cinnamon. Some families add marigold (cempasúchil) or pitiona flower depending on the season and the festivity. The preparation is laborious and ceremonial: each ingredient is toasted and finely ground on a metate, generally by older women who possess the technical knowledge. The resulting paste is diluted with cold water and whisked vigorously with special gourd vessels for a long time until abundant dense white foam forms. The whisking technique is similar to that of tejate but with the specific inclusion of the aromatic flowers. It is served cold in gourd vessels decorated with traditional Zapotec motifs, keeping the crown of foam intact. The typical proportion is one hundred and fifty grams of cacao, one hundred grams of dough, two tablespoons of dried rosita, one tablespoon of pochote flower and sugar to taste per two litres of water. The flavour combines deep notes of toasted cacao with delicate floral aromas unique in the Mexican repertoire.

Cultural significance

Bu'pu is one of the most distinctive drinks of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec and of contemporary Zapotec culture. Traditional Mexican cuisine, UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage since 2010, includes bu'pu among the representative preparations of Oaxaca's living pre-Hispanic heritage. It takes centre stage at the Isthmus velas, unique patron-saint festivities of the Isthmus where the Zapotec communities celebrate their saints with traditional music (Isthmus sones), dance, ceremonial dress (the Tehuana costume), ritual food and bu'pu in gourd vessels. These celebrations, declared Cultural Heritage of the State of Oaxaca, are one of the most vibrant examples of living indigenous culture in Mexico. Bu'pu also features at Zapotec weddings, novenas (funeral rituals), baptisms and Day of the Dead rituals, considered a bridge between the living and the ancestors. The bu'pu yoo, traditional women makers, maintain an important artisanal economy in the Isthmus, selling the drink in markets, at festivities and to order. The Zapotec culture of the Isthmus, with its linguistic, musical, sartorial and culinary expressions, is one of the best-preserved and internationally recognised Mexican cultural heritages.

Frequently asked questions

What does bu'pu taste like?

It tastes of toasted cacao with a creamy undertone of nixtamalised maize and delicate floral aromas of rosita de cacao and pochote flower. It has an aromatic complexity unique in the Mexican repertoire: the cacao becomes deep, the dough adds creaminess, the flowers add ethereal perfumed notes. The texture is dense with floating foam of neutral flavour. Slightly sweet but not cloying, with the profile of a sophisticated ancient ritual drink.

What flowers are used in bu'pu?

The traditional flowers are rosita de cacao (Quararibea funebris), dried pochote petals (Ceiba aesculifolia) and, occasionally, marigold (Tagetes erecta) or pitiona flower. Each flower provides specific aromatics: the rosita adds sweet floral notes, the pochote gives a balsamic undertone, the marigold adds woody notes. The flowers are harvested in specific seasons and sun-dried to keep all year in Zapotec homes.

Where does bu'pu come from?

It originates in the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, a region of southern Oaxaca inhabited by the binnizá Zapotec communities ('people who come from the clouds'). Municipalities such as Juchitán de Zaragoza, Tehuantepec, San Blas Atempa, Salina Cruz and Ixtaltepec are the traditional centres of its making. Its pre-Hispanic origin goes back to the Mesoamerican Classic period, with Zapotec archaeological evidence at Monte Albán and Mitla.

When is bu'pu served?

It is served at Zapotec festivities of the Isthmus, especially the velas (annual patron-saint festivals such as the Vela Tehuantepec or the Vela Sandunga), weddings, baptisms, funeral novenas, Day of the Dead rituals and community celebrations. It is a ceremonial drink that accompanies the most important moments of Zapotec life. It is also prepared for visitors and special guests as a sign of respect and cultural welcome. It is not an everyday drink but a ritual one.