Chileatole: what it is, history and recipe for the pre-Hispanic spicy atole

What is it?

Chileatole is a thick preparation made from maize masa, chilli and epazote, halfway between a drink and a stew. Its name comes from the Nahuatl chīlli (chilli) and ātōlli (atole), literally "atole with chilli". It is served hot in gourds or clay bowls and is typical of Puebla, Tlaxcala, Veracruz, Morelos and Oaxaca. It is one of the pre-Hispanic ritual foods best preserved in everyday Mexican cooking, especially during cold periods and the patron-saint festivals of the Central Highlands.

Origin and history

Chileatole has a documented pre-Hispanic origin: in its original version it was prepared by grinding cacao and mixing it with maize masa, chilli, vanilla and bee honey. Hernán Cortés mentioned it in his Cartas de Relación after his arrival at Moctezuma's court. The Spanish rejected the spicy version because of the chilli, and by removing it and keeping the cacao what we know today as champurrado emerged. The savoury version with epazote and tender sweetcorn was preserved intact in the indigenous and mestizo kitchens of central Mexico, reaching the twenty-first century practically unchanged.

Characteristic ingredients

The basic ingredients of chileatole are: tender sweetcorn kernels, nixtamalised maize masa, fresh epazote, green chilli (jalapeño or serrano) or red chilli (guajillo, ancho), water and salt. In Puebla it is enriched with little balls of masa, criollo squash or radish. In Veracruz, chileatole with chicken is common, with chile costeño, chayote and potato. The Tlaxcala version usually includes broad beans. Epazote is indispensable: it provides the characteristic aniseed aroma and, according to traditional herbal lore, aids the digestion of maize.

Cultural significance

Chileatole is an emblem of milpa cuisine: it integrates the three essential pre-Hispanic crops (maize, chilli and sometimes beans) in a single dish. It is served at festivities such as Candelaria, Day of the Dead and the mayordomías of central Mexico, and forms part of the traditional cuisines declared Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2010. In rural towns it is still prepared in wood-fired clay pots, and its consumption is linked to agricultural rites of thanksgiving for the tender sweetcorn harvest between July and September.

Frequently asked questions

Is chileatole sweet or savoury?

Traditional chileatole is savoury and spicy, with flavours of sweetcorn, chilli and epazote. A sweet version exists in some regions, but the classic recipe is savoury and is served as a light stew or thick broth.

What is the difference between chileatole and champurrado?

Champurrado is the sweet colonial evolution of chileatole: it contains chocolate, piloncillo and cinnamon. Chileatole preserves the pre-Hispanic recipe with chilli and epazote and is served savoury.

How is chileatole served?

Hot, in gourds or clay bowls, frequently accompanied by tlacoyos, tamales or freshly made tortillas. It is a common dish in markets and traditional breakfasts in central Mexico.

Which chilli is used for chileatole?

It depends on the region: in Puebla green chilli (jalapeño or serrano) or chile poblano is used; in Veracruz chile costeño; and in other areas guajillo or ancho. The choice determines whether the chileatole is green or red.