Chiles toreados: the spicy side of Mexican cooking

What is it?

Chiles toreados are a fresh and spicy side dish very popular in Mexican cooking, especially in the north and west of the country. They are made by taking a fresh chilli — usually jalapeño or serrano — and 'toreándolo' or lightly beating it with the hands or a cloth to open its fibres and release the capsaicin, before sautéing it in hot oil, charring it on a comal or passing it through the flame. The result is a soft, slightly burnt chilli that is much spicier than the original fresh chilli. It is served whole as an accompaniment to tacos al pastor, carnes asadas, broths, seafood and arrachera, frequently bathed with a little soy sauce, lime juice and sea salt. Its intensity ranges between 5,000 and 15,000 Scoville units depending on the chilli used.

Origin and history

The name 'toreado' comes from the verb torear, in reference to the gesture of provoking the chilli by beating or shaking it so that it 'gets angry' and releases all its heat. Although the term does not appear in old recipe books, the technique of charring fresh chillies before eating them is pre-Hispanic and is documented by Fray Bernardino de Sahagún, who described in the Florentine Codex the use of charred chillies in Mexica cooking. The modern version of chile toreado with soy sauce and lime became popular in northern Mexico during the 20th century, associated with the northern carne asada culture (Nuevo León, Sonora) and the taquerias of Guadalajara and Tijuana. In recent years it has spread throughout the country as an obligatory garnish for tacos and seafood, especially in Sinaloa and Baja California.

Characteristic ingredients

To prepare chiles toreados, firm green jalapeño or serrano chillies are chosen, ideally with shiny, blemish-free skin. The most common technique is to sauté them whole in a pan or comal with a little vegetable oil over high heat, moving them constantly until the skin blisters and dark spots appear. Before heating, some cooks 'tore' the chilli by holding it with a cloth and squeezing or lightly beating it to open the inner fibres, which increases the heat. In the north it is customary to finish the chilli with a splash of Kikkoman soy sauce, lime juice and Maldon or coarse salt; on the Pacific coast Maggi or Worcestershire sauce is added. There are also versions with chile güero, habanero and fresh chile de árbol. The residual fat and chilli juices are used to dip the taco tortilla.

Cultural significance

Chiles toreados are an essential part of the taco culture and carne asada in Mexico. In the taquerias of Tijuana, Guadalajara, Monterrey and Hermosillo there is always a comal with chiles toreados ready to accompany every order of tacos al pastor, suadero, arrachera or tripa. At northern barbecues, the ritual of preparing chiles toreados with beer, soy sauce and lime is almost as important as the meat itself. They form part of the carne asada style that northern culture has exported to the whole of Mexico and the southern United States, especially in Texas, Arizona and California, where the Mexican diaspora keeps the tradition alive. As an expression of Traditional Mexican Cuisine recognised by UNESCO in 2010, chiles toreados illustrate how a simple technique — charring a fresh chilli — can become a cultural symbol shared by millions of diners across the Hispanic world.

Frequently asked questions

Why are they called chiles toreados?

The name comes from the verb 'torear', because the chilli is 'provoked' by beating it or shaking it with a cloth or between the hands before cooking it, so it 'gets angry' and releases more capsaicin, becoming spicier. The action recalls the gesture of provoking the bull in a bullfight, hence the Mexican culinary analogy.

What is the difference between chiles toreados and chiles asados?

Roast chillies (chiles asados) are only exposed to flame or comal until the skin blisters, but they keep their original heat. Chiles toreados are beaten beforehand to activate the capsaicin and then sautéed in oil with soy sauce and lime, becoming spicier, glossier and softer in texture. Both are common fresh sides.

What are chiles toreados served with?

They are a classic side for tacos al pastor, suadero, arrachera, northern carnes asadas, seafood such as camarones a la diabla or pescado zarandeado, and broths such as pozole or beef broth. They are also eaten as a snack with a cold beer, accompanied by soy sauce and lime.

Which chilli is best for toreando?

The jalapeño is the most used for its manageable size and fleshiness. The serrano is finer and spicier, ideal for those looking for more heat. In the north chile güero and caribe are also toreados, and on the Pacific coast habaneros are tried, although the latter are extremely spicy.