Jamoncillo: what it is, how it's made and where it's from

What is it?

Jamoncillo is a traditional Mexican sweet made from milk cooked with sugar and cinnamon until caramelised and thickened, forming a dense paste that is poured into moulds to cool and harden. It has a brittle, crystalline texture similar to fudge or soft nougat, a deep flavour of caramelised milk with notes of cinnamon and, in rich variants, of almonds, walnuts or pine nuts. Its colour ranges from milky white to caramel beige depending on the degree of cooking. It is one of the most representative colonial convent sweets of traditional Mexican confectionery, with a strong presence in Puebla, Toluca, Querétaro and central Mexico. It is sold in artisanal sweet shops, regional fairs, traditional markets and as a memento from historic destinations. Its name, derived from the Spanish 'jamón' (ham) for its rectangular shape and colour, is an example of the New Spain culinary humour that played with appearances between different products.

Origin and history

Jamoncillo is one of the oldest convent sweets of the Mexican repertoire, with a documented origin in the colonial convents of New Spain during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. The confectioner nuns of the Puebla convents, especially those of Santa Mónica, Santa Inés and Santa Clara, are considered the forerunners of the recipe. The technique of cooking milk with sugar until caramelised was brought by the Spanish nuns and applied to the abundant cow's milk available on the New Spain haciendas. Larousse Cocina identifies jamoncillo as one of the oldest traditional Mexican sweets. Toluca, State of Mexico, established itself during the nineteenth century as another important centre of jamoncillo production, with specific variants such as pumpkin-seed jamoncillo (with pumpkin seed). The traditional sweet shops of the historic centre of Puebla and Toluca, many more than a hundred years old, preserve family recipes passed down for generations. It is a paradigmatic example of New Spain culinary mestizaje: European technique (milk caramelisation) with an American-European product (cow's milk after the Spanish introduction of cattle).

Characteristic ingredients

Whole milk is the essential ingredient; some recipes use goat's milk for more sophisticated variants. Refined sugar is the traditional sweetener; some versions combine it with piloncillo for deeper molasses notes. The cinnamon stick is infused throughout the cooking. Bicarbonate of soda is added in a small amount to encourage caramelisation (the Maillard reaction) and prevent the milk from curdling. The main variants add specific ingredients: pumpkin-seed jamoncillo (with ground pumpkin seed, typical of Toluca); almond jamoncillo (with peeled and chopped almonds); walnut jamoncillo (with pecan, typical of the north); plain milk jamoncillo (the most popular base version). The classic preparation involves cooking milk with sugar, cinnamon and bicarbonate over a medium heat for one to two hours, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens and begins to come away from the bottom of the traditional copper pan. The nuts are then incorporated if used, it is whisked vigorously for a few minutes and poured hot into greased moulds (rectangular to form bars like the ham that gives it its name). It is left to cool and cut into rectangular portions for sale.

Cultural significance

Jamoncillo is one of the most representative sweets of Mexican convent confectionery, a fundamental part of the country's colonial gastronomic heritage. Traditional Mexican cuisine, UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage since 2010, includes traditional sweets as an essential expression of the culinary heritage. The Calle de los Dulces (Calle 6 Oriente) of Puebla, declared the Cultural Heritage of the Municipality, brings together historic sweet shops that have offered jamoncillo and other convent sweets since the nineteenth century. Toluca, the capital of the State of Mexico, maintains an equally strong tradition: the sweet shops of the arcades of the Historic Centre are a must-visit to discover pumpkin-seed jamoncillo. The traditional Mexican sweet industry sustains artisanal cooperatives and family sweet shops in historic municipalities, generating employment and preserving centuries-old techniques. It is an emblematic tourist product: visitors to Puebla, Toluca, Querétaro or San Miguel de Allende usually take jamoncillo home as a memento. INAH and the Ministry of Culture have documented the traditional making techniques as intangible cultural heritage, especially in Puebla where convent confectionery is linked to the internationally recognised Puebla Baroque heritage.

Frequently asked questions

What does jamoncillo taste like?

It tastes deeply of caramelised milk with warm notes of cinnamon and an intense sweetness. The texture is brittle but soft, similar to fudge or soft nougat, melting slightly in the mouth. In variants with nuts (pumpkin seed, almonds, walnut) crisp contrasts and complementary flavours appear. It recalls solid Spanish or Argentine dulce de leche but with a specific New Spain technique that produces a more brittle crystallised texture, a unique characteristic of Mexican jamoncillo.

What are the variants of jamoncillo?

The main ones are: milk jamoncillo (the base version, white), pumpkin-seed jamoncillo (with ground pumpkin seed, typical of Toluca, pale green in colour), almond jamoncillo, walnut jamoncillo, pinole jamoncillo, cajeta jamoncillo (with Celaya cajeta), wine jamoncillo (with sherry or brandy) and chocolate jamoncillo. Each confectionery region has its distinctive specialities, with Puebla and Toluca being the two most important traditional centres.

Where does jamoncillo come from?

It originates in the colonial New Spain convents of Puebla and central Mexico during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. The confectioner nuns of the convents of Santa Mónica, Santa Inés and Santa Clara in Puebla are considered the forerunners of the recipe. Toluca, State of Mexico, established itself as another important centre of production during the nineteenth century. Both cities maintain living confectionery traditions with hundreds of years of historical continuity.

How is jamoncillo stored?

Jamoncillo keeps for up to two months in an airtight container at room temperature, thanks to its high sugar content, which acts as a natural preservative. It does not need refrigeration. It is advisable to wrap each piece in cellophane or wax paper to prevent it absorbing ambient moisture, which would soften the characteristic brittle texture. Traditional sweet shops present it in decorated boxes or individual bags, ideal as a gift or tourist memento.