Mexican meringues: what they are and how to make them

What is it?

Mexican meringues are a traditional sweet made with egg whites whipped to stiff peaks and refined sugar, dried in the oven or in the sun until they have a crisp exterior and a slightly soft interior. They can be classic white, pink, green or multicoloured, in the shape of drops, cones or stars. They are one of the most recognisable street sweets in Mexico: sold on large trays by merengueros who roam parks, squares, schools and church atriums shouting "merengueeero", their traditional sale includes a game of chance called the "volado" where the customer flips a coin and, depending on the result, pays, gets the meringue free or takes more pieces. This playful dimension makes them much more than a sweet: a cultural experience.

Origin and history

The meringue as a pastry technique arose in Europe, probably in Switzerland or Italy in the 17th century, attributed to the Italian pastry chef Gasparini of Meiringen. It arrived in Mexico with the convent pastry-making of the viceregal period and became popular as a street sweet in the 19th century, when the convents were important suppliers of cakes and sweets for religious festivities. Larousse Cocina notes that in Mexico the meringue was democratised: it stopped being a refined table sweet and became a snack of the fair, square and market. Mexico Desconocido documents that the figure of the wandering merenguero arose at the end of the 19th century and became established in the 20th, with its characteristic cries that are part of the soundscape of Mexican cities. The game of the volado (a coin in the air to win or lose) is the merenguero's invention, possibly derived from popular games of chance. Today, although the figure of the wandering merenguero is in decline, it survives in markets, central parks and patron-saint fairs.

Characteristic ingredients

Making the Mexican meringue is simple in ingredients but demanding in technique. Fresh egg whites (with no trace of yolk) are whipped in a clean, dry bowl, ideally of steel or glass, until soft peaks form. Refined sugar is added little by little while whipping continues, until the "turron stage" or firm, glossy, satiny peaks is reached. The traditional ratio is two tablespoons of sugar per egg white. Some merengueros add a drop of vinegar or cream of tartar that stabilises the whip. It can be flavoured with vanilla and coloured with vegetable or artificial dyes. The mixture is piped onto trays with a piping bag or spoon, forming mounds of 3-5 cm. It is baked at a very low temperature (90-100 degrees C) for 1-2 hours until completely dry. Traditional street meringues are made in a large version (10-15 cm) and usually have more body and an external crunch, with a slightly chewy interior.

Cultural significance

The Mexican meringue and the figure of the merenguero are part of the intangible heritage of Mexican cities, especially Mexico City, Puebla, Oaxaca, Merida and Guadalajara. The cry of "merengueeero!" roaming squares and parks has been part of the national soundscape for more than a century, portrayed in literature and traditional-customs cinema. The game of the volado, where the buyer bets a coin with the merenguero, is a unique piece of Mexican street commerce: if you win, you take several meringues for the price of one; if you lose, you pay and receive one or none. This playful dimension reflects the festive, risk-taking spirit of popular culture. Today the wandering merengueros have diminished because of urban regulation and industrial competition, but they survive in traditional markets (La Merced, Coyoacan, Historic Centre) and at fairs. Traditional Mexican cuisine recognised by UNESCO includes expressions of popular confectionery such as the meringue within community heritage.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between Mexican meringue and French meringue?

French meringue is made only with egg whites and sugar whipped cold, while the Italian and Swiss versions include hot syrup or heat during the whipping. The Mexican street meringue is a simple French meringue, dried in a low oven, generally larger and with a more rustic texture than the fine European versions. It is distinguished by its street context and the game of the volado.

What do Mexican meringues taste like?

They taste mainly of the pure sweetness of the sugar with a subtle base of egg and sometimes vanilla. The texture is what characterises them: a crisp crust that breaks at the first bite, an airy and slightly sticky interior that melts slowly releasing sweetness. The coloured versions may have notes of strawberry, lemon or artificial flavours.

How are street meringues served?

They are served freshly bought from the merenguero, usually wrapped in a sheet of brown paper or a napkin. They are eaten in bites as a snack on the go in squares, parks or on school outings. The ritual includes the announcing cry and often the volado: the customer bets their payment on the flip of a coin. They are also served on sweet tables at children's parties and events.

Where do meringues come from?

The meringue is originally from Europe (Switzerland or Italy, 17th century), but its Mexican street version is a product of the cultural mestizaje of the 19th century, when the convents of New Spain taught the technique to the popular classes who transformed it into a square snack. The figure of the wandering merenguero and the game of the volado are unique Mexican creations that do not exist in the original European tradition.