Oaxacan tamales: the classic wrapped in banana leaf with mole negro

What is it?

Oaxacan tamales are one of the most recognised and emblematic tamales of the Mexican repertoire, distinctive for being wrapped in banana leaves (instead of the maize husks typical of other tamales) and for generally being filled with chicken bathed in Oaxacan mole negro, mole rojo or mole coloradito. The banana leaf contributes a characteristic smoky and herbal aroma that immediately distinguishes Oaxacan tamales from other Mexican tamales. The nixtamalised maize masa is prepared with pork lard, chicken stock and salt, forming a soft and light texture. They are relatively large and flat tamales, not cylindrical like those of central Mexico. They are steamed for 1-2 hours until the masa separates easily from the leaf. It is an emblematic dish of Oaxacan celebrations such as weddings, christenings, mayordomias, Guelaguetza and the Day of the Dead, as well as a staple of the traditional ancestral Oaxacan breakfast.

Origin and history

Oaxacan tamales have a pre-Hispanic Mesoamerican origin. The Zapotec and Mixtec cultures prepared tamales wrapped in banana leaf (Musa paradisiaca, introduced by the Spaniards but rapidly adopted) or in similar leaves such as the pozol leaf or dried maize husk before the conquest. Fray Bernardino de Sahagun, in the Florentine Codex of the 16th century, described multiple variants of tamales in Mesoamerican cuisine. The banana leaf was incorporated into the Oaxacan repertoire after the introduction of banana by the Spaniards and became popular because of its distinctive aroma superior to other leaves. The mole negro filling and other Oaxacan moles developed during the Colonial period, fusing pre-Hispanic techniques (maize masa, steaming) with baroque ingredients (chocolate, almonds, spices). They are documented in colonial and 19th-century recipe books as an identity Oaxacan dish. They form part of Traditional Mexican Cuisine, UNESCO Intangible Heritage of Humanity 2010, with a special emphasis on Michoacan but extensible to Oaxaca.

Characteristic ingredients

The traditional preparation begins with the nixtamalisation of maize (cooking the grain with water and lime) to obtain the masa, which is beaten with fresh pork lard, chicken stock, salt and sometimes a little baking powder to make the masa fluffier. The banana leaf is heated over a comal or open flame to make it more flexible and release its characteristic aroma. A portion of masa is spread on the leaf, shredded chicken bathed in mole negro, rojo or coloradito (traditional Oaxacan mole) is added, the leaf is closed into a flat parcel and steamed for 1-2 hours in a large tamale pot. Oaxacan tamales are notably flatter and more rectangular than those of central Mexico, thanks to the banana leaf. Regional variants: in the Central Valleys mole negro is preferred; in the Mixteca they are filled with mole amarillo and hoja santa; in the Sierra Norte with black beans; in the Isthmus there are sweet versions with pineapple, raisins and cinnamon that are typical regional preparations.

Cultural significance

Oaxacan tamales are a fundamental dish of Oaxacan gastronomic identity. They appear at weddings, christenings, mayordomias, the Day of the Dead, Guelaguetza and religious celebrations such as the mananitas to the Virgin of Juquila. They are also an everyday breakfast: traditional tamaleras sell hot tamales in markets and on street corners of Oaxaca de Juarez, Tlacolula, Mitla and other towns from dawn. SECTUR promotes them as an emblematic cultural tourism product of Oaxaca, and they feature in programmes such as 'Pueblos Magicos' in Oaxacan communities. Traditional cooks such as Abigail Mendoza, Celia Florian and Pilar Cabrera have brought them to international recognition. They form part of Traditional Mexican Cuisine, UNESCO Intangible Heritage of Humanity 2010. They support thousands of traditional tamaleras, banana-leaf producers from the Coast and the Sierra, mole producers from the Central Valleys, and producers of native heirloom maize. On 2 February, Candlemas (Dia de la Candelaria), Oaxacans consume tamales in massive quantities as a cultural tradition.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between an Oaxacan tamale and a central-Mexican tamale?

The main difference is the wrapping leaf: the Oaxacan tamale uses banana leaf, which contributes a smoky and herbal aroma and produces a flat, rectangular tamale; the central-Mexican tamale uses dried maize husk, giving a smaller cylindrical tamale. In addition, Oaxacan tamales are usually filled with complex moles (negro, rojo, coloradito), while central ones contain rajas, green or red salsa, simpler.

Why are Oaxacan tamales wrapped in banana leaf?

Because the banana leaf contributes a characteristic smoky and herbal aroma that penetrates the masa during cooking, giving Oaxacan tamales their distinctive profile. The banana leaf is also larger and more flexible than the maize husk, allowing for larger and flatter tamales. This tradition was consolidated after the introduction of the banana plant in Oaxaca during the Spanish Colonial period.

What are Oaxacan tamales served with?

They are traditionally served with hot Oaxacan chocolate (with cinnamon and water or milk), masa or chocolate atole, café de olla or regional aguas frescas such as chilacayote water. For breakfast they are served on their own with spicy salsa. At large festivities they are accompanied by rice, beans and other traditional Oaxacan dishes such as additional mole negro, nopal salad or regional entomatadas.

Where are Oaxacan tamales originally from?

They are native to the state of Oaxaca, with main presence in the Central Valleys (Oaxaca de Juarez, Tlacolula, Etla, Ocotlan), the Mixteca, the Sierra Norte, the Isthmus of Tehuantepec and the Coast. Their origin is pre-Hispanic Mesoamerican (Zapotec and Mixtec cuisine), adapted during the Colonial period to include the banana leaf and baroque moles as distinctive Oaxacan identity fillings.