Chiles en escabeche: the Mexican sweet-and-sour pickle

What is it?

Chiles en escabeche are a sweet-and-spicy pickle made with fresh chillies (mainly jalapeño or serrano), vinegar, oil, carrot, onion, garlic and aromatic herbs such as bay, thyme and oregano. It is one of the most universal accompaniments on the Mexican table: it appears in torterias, taquerias, fondas and family homes as a sharp, spicy garnish for tortas, antojitos, tamales, tacos al pastor or dry stews. The preparation is typical throughout the country, with particular roots in the Bajio and central Mexico. The acidity of the vinegar, mixed with the aroma of the herbs and the heat of the chilli, turns this pickle into one of the most versatile pantry resources of Mexican cooking, able to last months without refrigeration when properly made.

Origin and history

Escabeche is a culinary technique of Arab-Andalusian origin that the Spanish conquistadors brought to the Americas in the sixteenth century. Its name comes from the Arabic 'al-sikbaj', a sour meat stew, although in the Iberian Peninsula it became a preservation technique with vinegar. In Mexico the technique found its best expression in combination with native chillies, especially jalapeño and serrano. During the colonial period, escabeche allowed fish and meats to be preserved on long journeys, and little by little it was also applied to vegetables and chillies. By the nineteenth century, chillies in vinegar were already a regular part of domestic recipes, as documented in the 'Nuevo cocinero mexicano' of 1858. Today they are a widely consumed industrial product and SADER recognises them as one of the country's most important traditional pickles.

Characteristic ingredients

The base recipe starts with jalapeño or serrano chillies sliced or whole, sauteed in oil with garlic, onion and carrot. Then white or apple-cider vinegar, water, salt, bay leaves, peppercorns, thyme and oregano are added. The mixture is boiled for a couple of minutes and poured into sterilised jars, where it matures better as the days go by. There are variants: in the Bajio it is usually made with cauliflower and nopalitos; in Yucatan, allspice and xcatik chilli are added; in Veracruz, mushrooms are added; and in central Mexico, chile guero or chile largo often appears. Commercially, brands such as La Costena, Herdez and San Marcos have popularised tinned presentations that are sold across the country. Its heat depends on the chilli used, ranging from 2,500 to 8,000 Scoville units in the jalapeño version.

Cultural significance

Chiles en escabeche are part of the DNA of everyday Mexican cooking: they appear in the torterias of Mexico City (cubanas, milanesas, pierna), at tacos al pastor stalls and in office lunch shops. The phrase '¿le pongo de los rajitos?' is popularly associated with this pickle. As part of Traditional Mexican Cuisine - recognised Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2010 - chiles en escabeche represent the culinary mestizaje between Arab-Spanish technique and Mesoamerican ingredients. Economically, brands such as La Costena have exported this product to more than 70 countries, taking the Mexican flavour to migrant communities around the world. At home, preparing a large jar of chiles en escabeche to give away or to keep in the pantry remains a deeply rooted family custom, especially in the Bajio and the altiplano.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between chiles en escabeche and chillies in vinegar?

Although the terms are often used as synonyms, technically chiles en escabeche include oil, aromatic herbs and are usually sauteed before adding the vinegar, while chillies in vinegar can be a simpler pickle with only vinegar, salt and spices. In Mexican commercial usage the two names are interchangeable.

What chilli is used to make Mexican escabeche?

The most widely used chilli is jalapeño in strips or whole, followed by serrano for hotter versions and chile guero or chile largo in some regions. In Yucatan, xcatik is also used, while in the north, cuaresmeño or wax chilli is used, depending on regional availability and family tradition.

How long do home-made chiles en escabeche keep?

If packed in sterilised jars and fully covered by the escabeche liquid, they keep for 6 to 12 months in a cool, dark place without refrigeration. Once opened they should be kept in the fridge, where they keep well for 2 to 3 months if handled with clean utensils.

What are chiles en escabeche eaten with?

They are the classic accompaniment of Mexican tortas (cubana, milanesa, pierna, ham) and tacos al pastor, suadero or guisos. They are also served with tamales, antojitos such as sopes or tlacoyos, and with broths. The carrot and onion in escabeche are as prized as the chilli itself.