Mole almendrado: what it is and how it's made

What is it?

Mole almendrado is a variant of Mexican mole characterised by the abundant presence of almonds, which provide smoothness, sweetness and a velvety texture. Its production is concentrated mainly in San Pedro Atocpan, an original town in the south of Mexico City (Milpa Alta borough), known nationally as 'the mole capital' for the concentration of artisanal producers and the celebration of the National Mole Fair each October. Mole almendrado uses the traditional base of dried chillies (ancho, mulato, pasilla, chipotle) and complements it with especially abundant amounts of peeled almonds, along with peanuts, sesame, pepita, chocolate, spices and other ingredients characteristic of the baroque mole. Its colour is reddish brown and its texture is notably creamier and smoother than that of the classic mole poblano. It is a favourite dish at weddings, christenings and posadas in Mexico City and its surrounding areas. The 'Mole Almendrado de Atocpan' brand enjoys national prestige and is sold in packaged forms for everyday family consumption.

Origin and history

Mole almendrado has its epicentre in San Pedro Atocpan, a town of Nahua tradition in the south of Mexico City (Milpa Alta borough). According to testimonies gathered by the magazine Zócalo and México Desconocido, the local mole-making tradition became established in the 20th century thanks to the work of doña Herlinda Hernández and other matriarchs who perfected family recipes and began to commercialise them from the 1940s. The abundant incorporation of almonds —a costly ingredient brought from Spain during the colonial period— distinguished the Atocpan version as a high-quality festive mole. The first National Mole Fair was held in 1977, driven by local producers to promote their moles to the national market. Today it is one of the most important gastronomic events in the country and draws tens of thousands of visitors each October. The cooking of Mexico City and Milpa Alta forms part of Traditional Mexican Cuisine recognised by UNESCO as Intangible Heritage of Humanity in 2010.

Characteristic ingredients

The traditional recipe for mole almendrado of Atocpan combines ancho chilli, mulato chilli, pasilla chilli and chipotle chilli, toasted without burning and then rehydrated. They are ground with generous amounts of peeled almonds (the lead ingredient), peanuts, sesame, pumpkin seed, fried bread or tortilla, fried plantain, raisins, table chocolate with cinnamon, roasted red and green tomatoes, onion, garlic and spices: cinnamon, clove, pepper, star anise and sometimes nutmeg. The paste is fried in lard or vegetable oil and cooked with chicken or turkey broth. The almonds give the mole a velvety texture and a characteristic aromatic profile, with notes of toasted nuts and a mild sweetness. Each producer in San Pedro Atocpan has a family recipe with different proportions, which gives rise to multiple variants within mole almendrado: sweeter, spicier, darker, lighter. Recognised brands include Mole Don Pancho, Mole San Pedrito and Mole La Abuela Herlinda.

Cultural significance

San Pedro Atocpan is known as 'the mole capital' and produces more than 60% of the packaged mole consumed in Mexico, according to data from the Milpa Alta borough. Local economic activity revolves around mole: more than 100 artisanal producers operate in the town, generating employment for thousands of families. The National Mole Fair, held annually in October since 1977, draws more than 250,000 visitors and consolidates the cultural brand 'Mole de Atocpan'. The Mexico City Ministry of Culture and the Milpa Alta borough promote it as gastronomic heritage of the capital. Towns such as San Pedro Atocpan are considered original towns of Mexico City and preserve living Nahua traditions. It forms part of Traditional Mexican Cuisine, UNESCO Intangible Heritage of Humanity 2010. Mole almendrado of Atocpan is exported to the United States and other countries as a gourmet product, bringing the Mexican flavour to international migrant communities and to local diners.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between mole almendrado and mole poblano?

Both share the structure of the mestizo baroque mole, but mole almendrado has a notably greater amount of almonds, which gives it a creamier, more velvety texture and a sweeter aromatic profile. Mole poblano is the classic Puebla recipe with chocolate, while almendrado is the Atocpan variant of Mexico City with an emphasis on almonds as the lead ingredient.

Where is mole almendrado produced?

Its epicentre is San Pedro Atocpan, an original town in the south of Mexico City in the Milpa Alta borough, known nationally as the mole capital. More than 100 artisanal producers operate in the town, where the National Mole Fair is held each October, a gastronomic event that draws more than 250,000 visitors and consolidates the cultural brand mole de Atocpan.

What makes mole almendrado special?

The abundant presence of peeled almonds as the lead ingredient, which provide a velvety texture, mild sweetness and notes of toasted nuts. Almonds were a costly ingredient during the colonial period, which made mole almendrado a high-quality festive recipe. Its aromatic profile combines the almonds with chocolate, spices and the classic dried chillies of the viceregal baroque mole.

When is mole almendrado prepared?

It is a favourite dish for weddings, christenings, first communions, Christmas posadas and large family meals. In San Pedro Atocpan it is prepared all year round, especially in October during the National Mole Fair. Mexico City families usually buy packaged mole almendrado in San Pedro Atocpan or in the markets of Mixquic, Tláhuac and Xochimilco for important celebrations.