Oaxacan mole rojo: what's in it, recipe and secrets

What is it?

Oaxacan red mole is one of the seven traditional moles of Oaxacan cooking, characterised by its deep red colour and a more balanced flavour profile than black mole, with less bitterness and a greater presence of fruity chillies. Its base is built with red chilhuacle, ancho chilli, mulato chilli and guajillo chilli, complemented with almonds, sesame, pepita, tomato, plantain, fried bread or tortilla, and spices such as cinnamon, clove, pepper and cumin. It includes bitter Oaxacan chocolate in a smaller amount than black mole, which gives it a less sweet and more spiced flavour. It is traditionally prepared with turkey or chicken at Zapotec celebrations: weddings, christenings, mayordomías and Day of the Dead. It is one of the most versatile moles in the Oaxacan recipe book, able to adapt to many occasions and to be served both at feasts and on contemporary menus. Its texture is thick, glossy and very aromatic.

Origin and history

Oaxacan red mole shares the same pre-Hispanic and mestizo origin as the rest of the Oaxacan moles. The term 'molli' (salsa or mixture in Nahuatl) designated in Mesoamerican cooking a broad family of ritual preparations based on chillies, seeds and spices. The fusion with European ingredients (almonds, cinnamon, clove, sesame, bread) during the colonial period gave rise to the baroque mole as we know it. Although mole poblano is usually associated with the legend of Sor Andrea de la Asunción of the convent of Santa Rosa in Puebla (17th century), Zapotec and Mixtec versions of red mole developed in parallel in Oaxaca. The recipe book 'Mulli. Oaxaca, la tierra de los moles' by the INPI documents regional variants of red mole in the Central Valleys, the Mixteca and the Sierra Sur. It is a fundamental part of Traditional Mexican Cuisine, recognised as Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2010, with special emphasis on the culinary model of Michoacán but extending to Oaxaca.

Characteristic ingredients

The traditional recipe for Oaxacan red mole combines red chilhuacle (the distinctive chilli, now at risk according to CONABIO), ancho chilli, mulato chilli and guajillo chilli. The chillies are lightly toasted without burning them —unlike black mole, where part is deliberately charred— and rehydrated. Almonds, peanuts, sesame, pumpkin seed, fried bread or tortilla, fried plantain, roasted red and green tomatoes, onion, garlic, bitter Oaxacan chocolate and spices are added: cinnamon, clove, pepper, cumin, Oaxacan oregano and sometimes avocado leaves. Everything is ground on a metate or mill and fried in lard, then cooked with turkey broth for 1-2 hours. The resulting paste is of an intense, glossy red colour and aromatic. There are regional variants: in the Central Valleys a more balanced version of sweetness and heat is preferred; in the Mixteca it incorporates more spices; in the Sierra Sur more mulato chilli is used; some families from the Isthmus add achiote for a more intense colour.

Cultural significance

Red mole is one of the most representative moles of Oaxacan gastronomic identity and is considered a ceremonial dish for important celebrations: weddings, christenings, mayordomías, the Guelaguetza and Day of the Dead. In many Zapotec and Mixtec communities, preparing red mole is a collective activity where the women of the family work together for days to achieve the amount needed for the feast. SECTUR promotes the seven Oaxacan moles as a national tourist product, and traditional cooks such as Abigail Mendoza, Celia Florián, Pilar Cabrera and Olga Cabrera have brought red mole to international recognition. It forms part of Traditional Mexican Cuisine, UNESCO Intangible Heritage 2010. It economically sustains producers of red chilhuacle from the Oaxacan Cañada —a chilli critical for conservation according to CONABIO—, producers of Oaxacan cacao and traditional cooks in markets such as the 20 de Noviembre or the Central de Abastos of Oaxaca de Juárez.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between Oaxacan red mole and black mole?

Black mole is characterised by deliberately charring the chillies —especially the black chilhuacle— to give deep bitterness and an almost obsidian dark colour. Red mole only toasts the chillies without burning them, keeps the red chilhuacles from darkening, and results in a more balanced, fruity and less bitter flavour, with a deep glossy red colour instead of the dark of black mole.

Which chilli is essential for Oaxacan red mole?

The key chilli is the red chilhuacle, an Oaxacan variety endemic to the Cañada that CONABIO classes as being at critical risk. It is complemented with ancho chilli, mulato chilli and guajillo chilli. When chilhuacle is not available (a frequent case owing to its scarcity), it is substituted mainly with more ancho and mulato chilli, though the authentic original flavour is not fully reproduced.

Does Oaxacan red mole contain chocolate?

Yes, though in a smaller amount than mole poblano or black mole. Bitter Oaxacan chocolate with cinnamon is used, traditionally produced in artisanal mills such as those of Mayordomo or La Soledad in Oaxaca. The chocolate provides complexity and smoothness without dominating; it is a key ingredient but not a protagonist in the final flavour profile of red mole.

What is Oaxacan red mole served with?

It is traditionally served with turkey at celebrations, or with chicken in everyday versions. It is accompanied by white rice, hand-made Oaxacan tortillas on a clay comal and, on some occasions, refried beans. At large feasts it is prepared in large clay pots and served in deep dishes, ensuring generous portions for the guests.