Mostachones: the traditional sweet of Saltillo and Coahuila

What is it?

Mostachones are traditional Mexican biscuits originally from Saltillo, Coahuila, made with wheat flour, chopped pecans, ground cinnamon, grated piloncillo or brown sugar, butter and egg. They have a round or oval shape, a texture between crunchy and sandy that crumbles in the mouth, and a deep flavour of toasted nut, cinnamon and piloncillo molasses. Their characteristic colour is golden brown due to the baking and the presence of piloncillo instead of refined sugar. They are one of the most representative traditional sweets of the state of Coahuila and of northern Mexico, with an identity presence similar to that of ate in Michoacan or sweet potatoes in Puebla. Saltillo, the capital of Coahuila, is considered the capital of mostachones, where historic sweet shops have maintained the tradition since the 19th century. They are eaten as a pudding, with coffee for tea, as a family gift and as a tourist souvenir from the city. Their origin is linked to the abundance of pecans in the region and to the cattle-rearing and flour-milling tradition of the north.

Origin and history

Mostachones originate in the colonial confectionery of northeastern Mexico during the 18th and 19th centuries. The name comes from the Spanish 'mostacho' (moustache) because of the elongated shape that the biscuits had in their original version, although today they are also made round. The Saltillo region was consolidated during the 19th century as a commercial and sweet-making centre of northern Mexico, benefiting from the abundant pecan cultivation in the Sabinas and Salado river basins. The pecan (Carya illinoinensis) is native to the Mississippi River valley and northern Mexico; the orchards of Coahuila, Chihuahua and Sonora are today important producers worldwide. The incorporation of abundant and cheap local pecans into basic Spanish biscuit recipes gave rise to the characteristic mostachones. Larousse Cocina identifies mostachones as one of the typical sweets of Coahuila and northern Mexico. Saltillo preserves historic sweet shops such as 'Dulces Coahuila' and 'La Mexicana' more than a hundred years old. The Mexican pecan industry, concentrated in the north of the country, is one of the world's main producers according to Sader data, sustaining five thousand producing families and an important sweet-making industry that includes not only mostachones but also cakes, jamoncillos, preserves and glazed nuts.

Characteristic ingredients

The essential ingredients are: wheat flour, shelled and coarsely chopped pecans, grated piloncillo or brown sugar (some recipes use refined sugar), butter, egg, ground cinnamon, baking powder and optionally vanilla. The usual proportion is 250 grams of flour, 200 grams of pecans, 150 grams of grated piloncillo, 125 grams of butter, two eggs and two teaspoons of cinnamon. The preparation: cream the butter with the piloncillo until fluffy, add the eggs one at a time, then incorporate the sieved dry ingredients along with the cinnamon and chopped pecans. The resulting dough should be semi-moist but manageable. Small balls are formed and slightly flattened on a greased tray and baked at 180 degrees Celsius for fifteen to twenty minutes, until golden but still soft to the touch (they harden as they cool). Regional and homemade variants: mostachones with walnuts instead of pecans; mostachones with added ground almond; mostachones covered with sprinkled icing sugar; wine-infused mostachones with sherry or brandy. Some Saltillo sweet shops have family recipes with specific proportions and particular techniques passed down through generations, which gives a distinctive identity to each brand.

Cultural significance

Mostachones are one of the most identifying sweets of Coahuila and of the traditional confectionery of northern Mexico. Traditional Mexican cuisine, UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage since 2010, does not specifically mention mostachones but includes regional sweet-making among its expressions of gastronomic heritage. Saltillo, the capital of Coahuila, has been consolidated as the traditional capital of mostachones: the image of the mostachon with coffee from the pot is an automatic cultural association with the city. The State Government of Coahuila has promoted mostachones among its identity-typical products, alongside the Saltillo serape (another state textile heritage) and the wines of the region. Historic sweet shops such as 'Dulces Coahuila' and 'La Mexicana' have maintained the tradition for more than a century, generating employment and preserving centuries-old techniques. The northern Mexican pecan industry, dominated by Coahuila, Chihuahua, Sonora and Nuevo Leon, is one of the world's main producers of pecan according to Sader data, sustaining five thousand families and an associated sweet-making industry that moves hundreds of millions of pesos a year. Mostachones are an essential tourist product from Saltillo, taken as a souvenir by national and international visitors.

Frequently asked questions

What do mostachones taste like?

They taste deeply of toasted pecan with a background of cinnamon and piloncillo molasses. The texture is crunchy on the outside and slightly sandy on the inside, gently crumbling in the mouth. They are reminiscent of Spanish butter biscuits but with the Mexican northern signature of abundant nuts and piloncillo instead of refined sugar. They are substantial, not delicate sweets, ideal to accompany coffee from the pot on cold northern mornings.

Where do mostachones come from?

They originate from Saltillo, Coahuila, where they have been made since the 19th century as a northern sweet-making adaptation of Spanish colonial recipes. The region was consolidated as a production centre thanks to the abundance of pecan in the Sabinas and Salado river basins and the cultivation of wheat in the northern plains. Historic Saltillo sweet shops such as 'Dulces Coahuila' and 'La Mexicana' maintain the tradition with century-old family recipes.

What kind of nut is traditionally used?

Pecan (Carya illinoinensis) is traditionally used, also called 'nuez encarcelada' or Mexican Castilian nut, abundant in Coahuila, Chihuahua, Sonora and Nuevo Leon. Some contemporary variants use European walnut (Juglans regia) or almond, but the characteristic flavour of the traditional mostachon comes from the pecan. Mexico is one of the world's main producers of pecan along with the United States.

How are mostachones stored?

Mostachones keep for up to three weeks in an airtight container at room temperature, in a cool, dry place. The presence of butter can shorten the shelf life if they are exposed to heat; ideally they are kept at temperatures between 18 and 22 degrees. They do not require refrigeration (it can soften the crunchy texture). They are a portable and transport-resistant product, ideal as a tourist souvenir from Saltillo. Traditional sweet shops present them in decorated boxes or cellophane bags by the dozen.