Mostachones: what they are, ingredients and how to make them

What is it?

Mostachones are traditional Mexican biscuits originating in Saltillo, Coahuila, made with wheat flour, chopped pecans, ground cinnamon, grated piloncillo or brown sugar, butter and egg. They have a round or oval shape, a texture between crisp and crumbly that melts in the mouth, and a deep flavour of toasted pecan, cinnamon and piloncillo molasses. Their characteristic colour is golden brown owing to the baking and the presence of piloncillo instead of refined sugar. They are one of the most representative traditional sweets of the state of Coahuila and of northern Mexico, with an identity presence similar to that of ate in Michoacán or camotes in Puebla. Saltillo, the capital of Coahuila, is considered the capital of mostachones, where historic sweet shops have maintained the tradition since the nineteenth century. They are eaten as a dessert, an afternoon snack with coffee, a family gift and a tourist memento from the city. Their origin is linked to the abundance of pecans in the region and to the ranching and flour-milling tradition of the north.

Origin and history

Mostachones originate in the colonial confectionery of north-eastern Mexico, during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. The name comes from the Spanish 'mostacho' (moustache) for the elongated shape the biscuits had in their original version, although today they are also made round. The Saltillo region established itself during the nineteenth century as the commercial and confectionery centre of northern Mexico, benefiting from the abundant cultivation of pecans in the basins of the Sabinas and Salado rivers. The pecan (Carya illinoinensis) is native to the Mississippi river valley and northern Mexico; the orchards of Coahuila, Chihuahua and Sonora are today important producers worldwide. The incorporation of abundant, cheap local walnuts into basic Spanish biscuit recipes gave rise to the characteristic mostachones. Larousse Cocina identifies mostachones as one of the typical sweets of Coahuila and northern Mexico. Saltillo preserves historic sweet shops such as 'Dulces Coahuila' and 'La Mexicana', more than a hundred years old. The Mexican walnut industry, concentrated in the north of the country, is one of the world's leading producers according to Sader data, supporting five thousand producing families and an important confectionery industry that includes not only mostachones but also cakes, jamoncillos, preserves and glazed walnuts.

Characteristic ingredients

The essential ingredients are: wheat flour, peeled and coarsely chopped pecans, grated piloncillo or brown sugar (some recipes use refined sugar), butter, egg, ground cinnamon, baking powder and optionally vanilla. The usual proportion is 250 grams of flour, 200 grams of walnuts, 150 grams of grated piloncillo, 125 grams of butter, two eggs and two teaspoons of cinnamon. Preparation: the butter is creamed with the piloncillo until fluffy, the eggs are added one by one, then the sifted dry ingredients are incorporated together with the cinnamon and the chopped walnuts. The resulting dough should be semi-moist but manageable. Small balls are formed, lightly flattened on a greased tray and baked at 180 degrees Celsius for fifteen to twenty minutes, until golden but still soft to the touch (they harden as they cool). Regional and home variants: mostachones with walnut instead of pecan; mostachones with added ground almond; mostachones dusted with icing sugar; wine mostachones with sherry or brandy. Some Saltillo sweet shops have family recipes with specific proportions and particular techniques passed down for generations, which gives each brand a distinctive identity.

Cultural significance

Mostachones are one of the most identity-defining sweets of Coahuila and of the traditional confectionery of northern Mexico. Traditional Mexican cuisine, UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage since 2010, does not specifically mention mostachones but includes regional sweet shops as expressions of the gastronomic heritage. Saltillo, the capital of Coahuila, has established itself as the traditional capital of mostachones: the image of the mostachón with café de olla is an automatic cultural association with the city. The Government of the State of Coahuila has promoted mostachones among its identity-defining typical products, along with the Saltillo sarape (another state textile heritage) and the wines of the region. Historic sweet shops such as 'Dulces Coahuila' and 'La Mexicana' have maintained the tradition for more than a century, generating employment and preserving centuries-old techniques. The northern Mexican walnut industry, dominated by Coahuila, Chihuahua, Sonora and Nuevo León, is one of the world's leading producers of pecans according to Sader data, supporting five thousand families and an associated confectionery industry that moves hundreds of millions of pesos a year. Mostachones are an essential tourist product of Saltillo, taken home as a memento by national and international visitors.

Frequently asked questions

What do mostachones taste like?

They taste deeply of toasted pecan with an undertone of cinnamon and piloncillo molasses. The texture is crisp on the outside and slightly crumbly inside, melting gently in the mouth. They recall Spanish shortbread biscuits but with the northern Mexican signature of abundant walnuts and piloncillo instead of refined sugar. They are substantial sweets, not delicate, ideal to accompany café de olla on cold northern mornings.

Where do mostachones come from?

They originate in Saltillo, Coahuila, where they have been made since the nineteenth century as a northern confectionery adaptation of Spanish colonial recipes. The region established itself as a centre of production thanks to the abundance of pecans in the basins of the Sabinas and Salado rivers and the cultivation of wheat on the northern plains. Historic Saltillo sweet shops such as 'Dulces Coahuila' and 'La Mexicana' maintain the tradition with century-old family recipes.

What kind of walnut is traditionally used?

Traditionally the pecan (Carya illinoinensis) is used, abundant in Coahuila, Chihuahua, Sonora and Nuevo León. Some contemporary variants use European walnut (Juglans regia) or almond, but the characteristic flavour of the traditional mostachón comes from the pecan. Mexico is one of the world's leading producers of pecans along with the United States.

How are mostachones stored?

Mostachones keep for up to three weeks in an airtight container at room temperature, in a cool, dry place. The presence of butter can shorten the shelf life if exposed to heat; ideally they are kept at temperatures between 18 and 22 degrees. They do not need refrigeration (it can soften the crisp texture). They are a portable product, resistant to transport, ideal as a tourist memento from Saltillo. The traditional sweet shops present them in decorated boxes or cellophane bags by the dozen.