Polvorones: what they are, recipe and Mexican variants

What is it?

Polvorones are traditional Mexican biscuits of an extremely delicate texture that 'melts in the mouth' at the first bite, their name derived precisely from that quality of crumbling easily. They are made with flour, lard (pork or vegetable), icing sugar and, in the main variants, citrus essences or zest, vanilla or cinnamon. Their shape can be round, oval or flower-shaped, generally the size of the palm of a hand. There are recognisable regional variants: the pink or strawberry polvorón (with colouring and essence), the white butter and vanilla polvorón, the orange polvorón with citrus zest, and the Cajeme polvorón (Sonora) with a specific northern technique. It is one of the most popular traditional sweets of Mexico, present in bakeries, markets, sweet shops, family parties, quinceañera celebrations, baptisms and weddings. It is also associated with Day of the Dead festivities for its white shape recalling the little skulls.

Origin and history

Polvorones have a direct colonial origin. The recipe is an adaptation of Andalusian polvorones, typical sweets of Andalusia, especially of the region of Estepa (Seville), where they have been made since the sixteenth century. The Spanish friars brought the recipe to New Spain during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries; the confectioner nuns of the New Spain convents adapted the technique to local taste, modifying proportions, adding new flavours and incorporating the vegetable colourings and citrus zest that distinguish the Mexican version. Larousse Cocina identifies polvorones as one of the most representative traditional sweets of Mexican confectionery, present throughout the republic. The word 'polvorón' derives from the Spanish 'polvo' (powder), referring to the powdery texture that crumbles when bitten. The Mexican version differs from the Spanish one mainly in the use of pork lard (the classic Andalusian ones also use lard) and the incorporation of the pink and orange vegetable colourings characteristic of the Mexican confectionery repertoire. Traditional Mexican bakeries, heirs to New Spain convent pastry-making, keep polvorones as one of the staple products of the sweet menu.

Characteristic ingredients

Common wheat flour is the base; some recipes require double sifting for an ultra-fine texture. Pork lard is an irreplaceable traditional ingredient: it provides the characteristic crumbly texture impossible to fully replicate with butter or margarine, although modern versions use them for dietary preferences. Icing sugar is incorporated into the dough and dusted on top on serving; it is important for providing sweetness without altering the texture. The secondary ingredients define each variant: strawberry essence with carmine-red colouring for the pink ones; orange zest and juice for the citrus ones; natural vanilla and extra butter for the white ones; ground cinnamon for the cinnamon-bread ones; ground walnut for the walnut ones; cocoa for the chocolate ones. The classic preparation involves creaming the lard with the icing sugar until fluffy, incorporating flavouring and colouring, and adding the sifted flour in a single batch, mixing gently so as not to develop the gluten. The resulting dough should be malleable but dry, with no egg added traditionally (unlike other sweets). Balls are formed which are flattened or cut with special flower- or star-shaped cutters. They are baked at a low temperature (160-170 degrees) for twenty to twenty-five minutes until barely golden on the bottom, staying white on top. They are cooled on a rack and dusted with additional icing sugar.

Cultural significance

Polvorones are one of the most democratic and ubiquitous traditional Mexican sweets, a fundamental part of the country's confectionery heritage. Traditional Mexican cuisine, UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage since 2010, incorporates traditional confectionery as an essential expression of New Spain culinary mestizaje. Polvorones are indispensable at Mexican family celebrations: weddings, quinceañeras, baptisms, first communions, graduations and novenas feature pink polvorones as an aesthetic and symbolic element (pink associated with joyful celebration). At Day of the Dead festivities, white polvorones are incorporated into the altars. The Mexican confectionery industry, which includes traditional bakeries and market sweet shops, sustains thousands of families and micro-enterprises across the country. Polvorones are made in historic bakeries such as the Pastelería Ideal of Mexico City (founded in 1927) and in small regional sweet shops such as those of the markets of Toluca, Cuernavaca and Puebla. Their accessible character (low price, simple ingredients) and resistance to transport have made them a habitual family gift between regions, carried from local bakeries as a token of affection. The Mexican diaspora in the United States keeps them as an identity element.

Frequently asked questions

What do polvorones taste like?

They taste mainly of the added flavour: the pink one of strawberry with a deep sweetness, the orange one of fresh citrus, the white one of butter and vanilla, the cinnamon one of warm spice. The texture is the most distinctive: they crumble to powder in the mouth at first contact, leaving a creamy sandy sensation similar to flour cooked with lard. They are neither crisp nor chewy; they are extremely delicate, almost ethereal. From their name 'polvorón' it is understood that they reduce to powder when bitten, a unique characteristic in the Mexican confectionery repertoire.

What are the variants of polvorones?

The main ones are: pink or strawberry polvorón (with essence and colouring), white butter and vanilla polvorón, orange polvorón (with zest), cinnamon polvorón, chocolate polvorón, walnut polvorón (with ground walnut) and icing-sugar-coated polvorón. Regional variants: Seville polvorón (closer to the Andalusian original), Sonora Cajeme polvorón (with a northern technique), Yucatecan polvorón with bee honey. Each traditional bakery has its specific proportions and characteristic colourings.

Where do polvorones come from?

They have a colonial origin: they derive from Andalusian polvorones, especially those of Estepa (Seville), made in Spain since the sixteenth century. The Spanish friars brought the recipe to New Spain during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. The New Spain confectioner nuns adapted the recipe with flavourings, colourings and Mexican techniques. Today they are traditional sweets throughout the republic, with regional variants in Puebla, Mexico City, Sonora, Yucatán and all the states with a living traditional bakery.

Why do polvorones crumble so much?

The powdery texture comes from three factors: a high proportion of lard (35-50 per cent of the weight of the flour) that prevents gluten development, the absence of egg and liquids that normally give structure to other baked goods, and baking at a low temperature that cooks without developing hardness. Pork lard is especially important: its fatty composition creates a crystalline structure that breaks very easily, giving the characteristic 'melts in the mouth' effect that gives these biscuits their name.