Mole de Xico: what it is, what's in it and what it tastes like

What is it?

Mole de Xico is one of the most distinctive moles in the Mexican recipe book, native to the magical town of Xico, in the highland area of Veracruz near Coatepec. It is characterised by its notably sweet and spiced profile, thanks to the incorporation of prune, plantain, apple, hazelnuts and abundant Veracruz table chocolate. Its dried-chilli base includes mulato chilli, pasilla chilli, ancho chilli and chipotle, complemented with almonds, peanuts, pumpkin seeds, sesame, spices (cinnamon, clove, pepper, cumin, anise) and animal crackers —a curious ingredient that is a hallmark of the Xico recipe. The result is a glossy, thick, deeply complex mole, with a perfect balance between fruity sweetness, moderate heat and spiced aroma. It is an emblematic dish of weddings, christenings and celebrations in Xico, where the local mole-making tradition enjoys great prestige. Its distinctive character has made it one of the most recognised and tourism-promoted Veracruz dishes, considered a culinary treasure of the state.

Origin and history

Mole de Xico developed in the town of Xico, founded in the 16th century on the slopes of the Cofre de Perote, Veracruz. The region combines pre-Hispanic Totonac heritage with Spanish colonial tradition, which is reflected in its mestizo cooking. The Xico mole-making tradition dates back at least to the 19th century, when local families perfected recipes that combined chillies from the Puebla highlands with Veracruz tropical fruit and Asian spices arrived via the Nao de China. The magazine Identidad Veracruz and México Desconocido document that mole de Xico became established as an identity dish for weddings and celebrations in the 20th century, thanks to mole-making families such as the Méndez and the Ríos, who produce the mole both artisanally and commercially. In 2011, Xico was designated a Pueblo Mágico by SECTUR, partly for its gastronomic tradition, especially the mole. It forms part of Traditional Mexican Cuisine, UNESCO Intangible Heritage of Humanity 2010. The Xico Mole Fair is held annually, drawing significant national and international gastronomic tourism.

Characteristic ingredients

The traditional recipe for mole de Xico combines mulato chilli, Mexican pasilla chilli, ancho chilli and chipotle chilli, toasted without burning and then rehydrated. They are ground with generous amounts of sweet ingredients: prunes (the signature of the Xico mole), fried plantain, apple, almonds, hazelnuts (rare in other moles), peanuts, pumpkin seeds, sesame, animal crackers and fried bread or tortilla. Veracruz table chocolate (not Oaxacan), roasted red and green tomatoes, onion, garlic and spices are added: cinnamon, clove, pepper, cumin and star anise. The paste is fried in lard and cooked with turkey or chicken broth for hours. The distinctive feature: mole de Xico is notably sweeter than mole poblano thanks to the abundance of fruit and crackers. Its colour is a glossy reddish brown. The mole-making families of Xico (Méndez, Ríos and others) have jealously guarded family recipes, and the packaged paste is sold in the markets of Xico, Coatepec and Xalapa, as well as online throughout Mexico.

Cultural significance

Mole de Xico is one of the most representative dishes of Veracruz gastronomy and a source of pride for the Pueblo Mágico of Xico. It economically sustains traditional mole-making families that produce packaged mole, producers of dried chillies from the Puebla-Veracruz highlands, fruit producers (prune, plantain, apple) and the local tourism sector. SECTUR promotes it within the Pueblos Mágicos programme, and the Xico Mole Fair draws thousands of visitors each year. It is an emblematic dish of Xico weddings, where the family recipe is prepared for days before the event. Cooks such as Lula Bertrán, Margarita Carrillo Arronte and Carlos Yescas have brought it into Mexican fine dining. It forms part of Traditional Mexican Cuisine, UNESCO Intangible Heritage of Humanity 2010. Packaged mole de Xico is exported to the United States, Canada and Europe, bringing the Veracruz flavour to migrant communities. It is an outstanding example of how a regional dish can become a driver of local economic development and living national gastronomic heritage.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between mole de Xico and mole poblano?

Mole de Xico is notably sweeter thanks to the abundance of prunes, plantain, apple and animal crackers. Mole poblano is more balanced between sweet and spicy. In addition, mole de Xico uses hazelnuts (rare in other moles), Veracruz chocolate (not Oaxacan) and has a more fruity aromatic profile. Both are mestizo baroque moles, but with clearly distinct regional identities.

Why does mole de Xico contain animal crackers?

Animal crackers are a distinctive and curious ingredient of mole de Xico. They provide extra sweetness, a velvety texture and notes of vanilla and butter. Their use is relatively recent (20th century) and has become established as a hallmark of the Xico recipe. Some mole-making families consider them obligatory; others use traditional Mexican sweet bread as a substitute, as in central Mexico.

What does mole de Xico taste like?

It is complex, sweet and spiced: the fruity notes of prune, apple and plantain dominate; the Veracruz chocolate provides sweetness with notes of toasted cacao; the spices (cinnamon, clove, anise) give aromatic depth. The heat is mild, accessible to most. It is one of the most indulgent moles in the Mexican recipe book, ideal for those who prefer moles with a pronounced sweetness and a classic spiced aroma.

Where does mole de Xico come from?

It is native to the town of Xico, in the highland area of Veracruz near Coatepec and Xalapa, on the slopes of the Cofre de Perote. The region combines pre-Hispanic Totonac heritage with Spanish colonial tradition. The recipe became established as a regional identity in the 19th century and was promoted internationally when Xico was designated a Pueblo Mágico by SECTUR in 2011, thanks in part to its artisanal family mole-making tradition.