Chiles en escabeche: what they are, how to make them and uses

What is it?

Chiles en escabeche are a tangy-spicy pickle made with fresh chillies (above all jalapeño or serrano), vinegar, oil, carrot, onion, garlic and aromatic herbs such as bay, thyme and oregano. It is one of the most universal accompaniments on the Mexican table: it appears in torta shops, taquerias, eateries and family homes as an acidic, spicy side for tortas, antojitos, tamales, tacos al pastor or dry dishes. The preparation is typical throughout the country, with particular roots in the Bajío and central Mexico. The acidity of the vinegar, mixed with the aroma of the herbs and the heat of the chilli, makes this pickle one of the most versatile pantry resources of Mexican cuisine, able to last months without refrigeration when made correctly.

Origin and history

Escabeche is a culinary technique of Arab-Andalusian origin that the Spanish conquistadors introduced to the Americas in the 16th century. Its name comes from the Arabic 'al-sikbāj', a sour meat stew, although on the Iberian Peninsula it evolved into a vinegar preserving technique. In Mexico the technique found its best expression when combined with the native chillies, especially the jalapeño and the serrano. During the colonial period, escabeche made it possible to preserve fish and meats on long journeys, and little by little it was also applied to vegetables and chillies. By the 19th century chillies in vinegar were already a regular part of domestic recipes, as documented in the 'Nuevo cocinero mexicano' of 1858. Today they are a widely consumed industrial product and SADER recognises it as one of the most important traditional pickles of the country.

Characteristic ingredients

The base recipe starts with jalapeño or serrano chillies, sliced or whole, sautéed in oil with garlic, onion and carrot. White or cider vinegar, water, salt, bay leaves, peppercorns, thyme and oregano are then added. The mixture is left to boil for a couple of minutes and packed into sterilised jars, where it matures better with the passing of the days. There are variants: in the Bajío it is usual with cauliflower and nopalitos; in Yucatán allspice and xcatic chilli are incorporated; in Veracruz mushrooms are added; and in central Mexico it is common for güero or chile largo to appear. Commercially, brands such as La Costeña, Herdez and San Marcos popularised tinned presentations that are sold throughout the country. Its level of heat depends on the chilli used, ranging between 2,500 and 8,000 Scoville units in its jalapeño version.

Cultural significance

Chiles en escabeche form part of the DNA of everyday Mexican cuisine: they are in the torta shops of Mexico City (cubanas, milanesas, pierna), in the tacos al pastor stalls and in office lunch counters. The phrase '¿le pongo de los rajitos?' ('shall I add some of the strips?') is popularly associated with this pickle. As part of Traditional Mexican Cuisine —recognised as Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2010— chiles en escabeche represent the culinary mestizaje between the Arab-Spanish technique and the Mesoamerican ingredients. Economically, brands such as La Costeña have exported this product to more than 70 countries, taking the Mexican flavour to migrant communities all over the world. In the domestic sphere, preparing a large jar of chiles en escabeche to give away or to keep in the cupboard remains a deeply rooted family custom, especially in the Bajío and the high plateau.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between chiles en escabeche and chiles en vinagre?

Although they are often used as synonyms, technically chiles en escabeche include oil, aromatic herbs and are usually sautéed before adding the vinegar, while chiles en vinagre can be a simpler pickle with just vinegar, salt and spices. In Mexican commercial practice the two names are interchanged.

Which chilli is used to make Mexican escabeche?

The most used chilli is the jalapeño in strips or whole, followed by the serrano for spicier versions and the güero or chile largo in some regions. In Yucatán the xcatic is also used, while in the north the cuaresmeño or wax chilli is used, depending on regional availability and family tradition.

How long do homemade chiles en escabeche last?

If packed in sterilised jars and completely covered with the escabeche liquid, they last 6 to 12 months in a cool, dark place without the need for refrigeration. Once opened they must be kept in the refrigerator, where they keep well for between 2 and 3 months if handled with clean utensils.

What are chiles en escabeche eaten with?

They are the classic accompaniment to Mexican tortas (cubana, milanesa, pierna, ham) and to tacos al pastor, suadero or dishes. They are also served with tamales, antojitos such as sopes or tlacoyos and with broths. The pickled carrot and onion are as appreciated as the chilli itself.